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Honda FR-V brakes issue


VanDerSnow

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Hi all.

 

So I have this FR-V that's causing me headache for a while. It's a 2008 2.2 diesel with 6speed manual gearbox, just over 123k miles.

Bought it with few issues that I thought will be easy to fix, but stuck at the moment..

The main issue is that the car is pulling to the left. The odd thing about it is that the pull is not consistent. I.e. in the morning, when you set off there's no noticeable pull, while couple roundabouts later, you really need to hold the steering wheel! Also the steering wheel seems to be easier to turn to left rather than right.

Car recently had both front wheel bearings done, new track rod ends, second hand shocks (as I thought mine could be bent, but no effect after the change). The ball joints were showing no play (although quite old), suspension arm bushes do have some tears but far from loose.

I fitted new brake discs and pads all round. Calipers looked like they been refurbished or such kit fitted not long time ago (this was probably a year ago).

After fitting the brakes, I went for a short 40mile trip and after stopping at services I noticed brakes smelling. Rear ones were binding.

I started taking things apart and found that the tricky part is that the caliper is fairly easy to compress back in, but once fitted to the car and brakes applied, they seem to stick.

I managed to get all four calipers from another car and swapped only the rear carriers (because mine looked like got too much play).

I just had 4 wheel alignment done and the car is still pulling to the left.

May worth to note that I do have ABS VSA lights on (normally comes on when brakes applied heavily) due ABS block pressure sensor issue. I had replacement fitted but same issue appears to happen.

Now I am running out of ideas, I spoke with the guy who did the alignment, he didn't see anything odd (or obvious) so suggests it may be brakes issue.

I put the car up on jacks today, started the engine, spun all wheels and they seemed to be free enough, front is a little bit less easy (probably due transmission) but nothing odd. I then applied brakes and tried spinning wheels again and noticed all wheels, particularly front ones are a lot harder to spin and when you let go only does 1 maybe 1.5 turns.

Can this be because of faulty ABS block? I am reluctant to waste money on another second hand ABS unit as the one I purchased was repaired already and supposedly worked fine.

Any ideas welcome...

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Had a similar issue with my CR-V when I acquired it.....would have to constantly rest my hand on the wheel to bias it over to one side otherwise it would drag over into another lane.
This was caused by the rear wheels being out of alignment (toe in/out) which is adjustable on the CR-V but not entirely sure if on the FR-V

Once the rear adjustment was made, problem solved.
Any adjustments on alignment should be made on the rear first if out of sync, most of the time they compensate by adjusting the fronts which doesn't cure it.

Also, check your tyres carefully (sizes, pressures, make (e.g. Chinese) and go with that before spending big money on it

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Thanks for your reply. The rear end on FR-V is adjustable with exception to camber (unless you use aftermarket links set). The full wheel alignment has been done but other than setting steering wheel to 0 position it is still pulling to one side. The most odd thing I find is that the pull is not constant, as in other words if you have bad tracking in pulls to one side with similar force, where in my case it varies so much I sometimes concerned driving it!

 

I have ordered new suspension arms and ball joints, should have them fitted this week if weather's good, but I am pesimistic it will solve the issue. I think it will be the brakes..

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If the pull is inconsistent then it could be somthing that is actioned that is causing it i.e breaks sticking then lossening, you may have already checked this but could it be your break fluid pressure, could there be a small leak in one of the lines causing them to lose pressure and or stick.

Also when redoing your break calipers did you clean a re-grease you caliper slide pins as they can cause uneven break-wear, rubbing on sticking if bad enough?

Again sounds like you know all this but hope this helps

 

Edited by Anthony
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Hope you guys don't mind me hijacking this tread, but after all my talk earlier, I ended up changing my rear break pads and disks on my FRV today, well trying but couldn't get the discs off as they seemed to be held in by 2 screws, now I couldn't get these screws to budge (snapped 2 Phillips head screw drivers in the process) has anyone else had this? Or has anyone changed their rear break disks? And are these screws important? Don't want to reemer them if they are vital ect.?

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On 10/2/2021 at 7:54 AM, Anthony said:

If the pull is inconsistent then it could be somthing that is actioned that is causing it i.e breaks sticking then lossening, you may have already checked this but could it be your break fluid pressure, could there be a small leak in one of the lines causing them to lose pressure and or stick.

Also when redoing your break calipers did you clean a re-grease you caliper slide pins as they can cause uneven break-wear, rubbing on sticking if bad enough?

Again sounds like you know all this but hope this helps

 

Yes, the brakes is my suspicion too. I have received new suspension arms and new ball joints, I will get them replaced and if problem still there, I think it will be down to brakes.

 

12 hours ago, Anthony said:

Hope you guys don't mind me hijacking this tread, but after all my talk earlier, I ended up changing my rear break pads and disks on my FRV today, well trying but couldn't get the discs off as they seemed to be held in by 2 screws, now I couldn't get these screws to budge (snapped 2 Phillips head screw drivers in the process) has anyone else had this? Or has anyone changed their rear break disks? And are these screws important? Don't want to reemer them if they are vital ect.?

I always give few good knocks with a hammer over screwdriver for those two screws. They always stuck. If that doesn't work try using heat gun. If none helps you will have to drill it trough and re-tap.

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Thanks VanDer, yeah will give the disks another go this weekend. 

Also while changing my break pads, I discovered one of my slide pins was stuck, (was planning to anyway) but took both out, cleaned and greased them and went back in like new and the difference in the drive, a lot less noise and vibration, I knew it would make a difference but still surprised at how dramatic a difference it made.

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