larry_united

As above 125k miles 2.2crdi Has had an alternator 2 years ago, good all season tyres, new starter motor earlier in 2024, newish battery, and recently new clutch and DMF. Unfortunately when the clutch went it must have damaged synchromesh and it now grinds going into 2nd gear. Other gears all fine. And it doesn't always grind, in fact generally when I am driving it's about 30% of the time on the way up, and 60% of the time on the way down. . I can't bear to throw any more money at it so am picking up a CRV in a week, and this will need a new home. 11 months MOT and perfectly drivable. Very limited history, only some recent work, but my mechanic generally sends his invoices by text message.... Make me an offer.

Hi all, Ok, so it's the clutch that needs replacing. I have a reasonable quote -approx £700 - to replace the clutch from local mobile mechanic. Its it worth getting DMF done at the same time? Approx £400 for the part. Is there anything else that you'd get changed whilst they're doing the clutch? Thanks!

Thanks. An educated guess is what I was after. Appreciated!

OK - that's helpful!! Thanks!! I'll see if I'm brave enough depending on how quickly I hear back from either of the two mobile mehanics I've contacted!

PS I think it's the same engine as the CRV - 2.2 CRDI (happy to be corrected)

It's a diesel. Parked on gravel unfortunately so hard to tell. But I did have the gear oil changed 3 months ago when it was serviced (it had the intermittent gear selection problem before that) The DMF seems to be £400ish and the clutch kit £150ish IIRC. Again thank you so much for the advice.

Thanks Kev, that's helpful and would make sense. I assume hydraulic also unless told otherwise. Would this explain the grinding in 2nd ? (and only 2nd)b I guess my main question is going to be the likely involvement /cost required to repair, for an 18 year old car with it's MOT due in 6 weeks I'm obviously weighing up what's worth fixing and what's not. The car absolutely otherwise suits all our needs, and I definitely don't mind chucking some cash at it but obviously there's a limit, and if I buy another car I'm only going to go and buy something else old and Japanese again.... Would replacement of one of the bearings be a job which also made it likely to need to replace (or worth replacing) the clutch, DMF or other parts also? If so any guesses as the sort of cost I'd likely be looking at would be very appreciated - thank you. Obviously I appreciate only so much you can say in a forum and I really need a mechanic to look at this, but any wisdom is very appreciated!

Hello 2006 Honda FRV with 120k miles on the clock. Reasonably recently had starter motor replaced and gearbox oil changed by local mechanic. Was driving fine. Some issues occasionally with clutch pedal - would press down and it wouldn't engage clutch so would have to come back up and press down again and then it would be fine. But pretty occasionally. Car used for towing a small caravan. Whilst towing gear selection failed entirely. With engine off, you can press clutch pedal and engage gears. With engine on you can press clutch pedal down but cannot engage any gears and if you try 2nd it makes a horrid grinding noise. I'm trying to get a mechanic to take a look, but is there any wisdom from the description of symptoms?? Thanks

Thanks so much for coming back to me. Yes, it wasn't too far off that, though perhaps higher pitched. In any case I've ordered a new starter motor and hoping I can get it replaced next week. I'll try and update on here. Thanks again

Well, one year on update. I replaced battery and haven't seen the warning since. No idea if this was correlation or causation but regardless it's now happy!

Hello I have a 2006 FRV with the 2.2 diesel engine. 125k miles. Today the car took several attempts to start. Before it fired it was just a fairly quiet whirring sound and no cranking or turning over. Then it fired ok. Is this an obvious problem/fix? I am really not a car person but does this mean starter motor is done for? All advice very gratefully received

Ah, that's interesting... it is a dodgy eurocarparts Lion battery. No codes about low voltage though.

I had mine done by a mobile mechanic in a morning. Did a car service also.

Hi there, Any advice on the above? 2006 Honda FRV 2.2 crdi with 110000 miles. We have come back from a long journey and VSA and ABS lights suddenly came on. Not doing anything particular at the time. Drove the car a few miles, stopped and restarted it and the light went away. Drove normally, no problems but then this happened again several times. I knew we had a problem anyway with the brakes as pads were low by the time we got back and have had it at the garage for a caliper replacement on the rear offside wheel as well as new pads, which needed changing. The caliper had been sticking a bit and hoped that might fix the VSA issue. However it hasn't. I did a 200 mile trip yesterday, on the way we had the VSA/abs lights on with a similar pattern - drive 5 or 10 miles, no lights then all of a sudden they come on. No obvious triggers. No impact on driving the car. Then when you stop the car and restart the lights come up until you hit 10mph and they clear. Oddly though on the way home I did about 80 miles with no lights coming on at all. I used an Autel code reader to read the code. This is "16-1 Permanent DTC - Right rear wheel speed sensor failure". I've cleared the code but it comes back if the VSA comes on. I'm no mechanic but is this likely to actually be a speed sensor issue? It feels odd that it would be so intermittent, could something else be causing it to trigger and if so are there any easy/likely culprits? Thanks