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Hi, The front nearside parking sensor on my 2011 CRV went wrong - dashboard displayed Check System and indicated which sensor was faulty. I replaced the sensor - the problem changed but did not go away. Now I do not get any faulty sensor indications - but as soon as I drop below 5mph - even if nothing within 100 metres of the car - the dashboard indicates that there is an obstacle close by - in other words the sensor reacts. Is there a way of rebooting the system, or maybe the sensor control module is faulty? I have seen these for sale but cannot find where they are located on the car - no mention in any manual I can find. Any suggestions would be appreciated Mark

Hi all. So I have this FR-V that's causing me headache for a while. It's a 2008 2.2 diesel with 6speed manual gearbox, just over 123k miles. Bought it with few issues that I thought will be easy to fix, but stuck at the moment.. The main issue is that the car is pulling to the left. The odd thing about it is that the pull is not consistent. I.e. in the morning, when you set off there's no noticeable pull, while couple roundabouts later, you really need to hold the steering wheel! Also the steering wheel seems to be easier to turn to left rather than right. Car recently had both front wheel bearings done, new track rod ends, second hand shocks (as I thought mine could be bent, but no effect after the change). The ball joints were showing no play (although quite old), suspension arm bushes do have some tears but far from loose. I fitted new brake discs and pads all round. Calipers looked like they been refurbished or such kit fitted not long time ago (this was probably a year ago). After fitting the brakes, I went for a short 40mile trip and after stopping at services I noticed brakes smelling. Rear ones were binding. I started taking things apart and found that the tricky part is that the caliper is fairly easy to compress back in, but once fitted to the car and brakes applied, they seem to stick. I managed to get all four calipers from another car and swapped only the rear carriers (because mine looked like got too much play). I just had 4 wheel alignment done and the car is still pulling to the left. May worth to note that I do have ABS VSA lights on (normally comes on when brakes applied heavily) due ABS block pressure sensor issue. I had replacement fitted but same issue appears to happen. Now I am running out of ideas, I spoke with the guy who did the alignment, he didn't see anything odd (or obvious) so suggests it may be brakes issue. I put the car up on jacks today, started the engine, spun all wheels and they seemed to be free enough, front is a little bit less easy (probably due transmission) but nothing odd. I then applied brakes and tried spinning wheels again and noticed all wheels, particularly front ones are a lot harder to spin and when you let go only does 1 maybe 1.5 turns. Can this be because of faulty ABS block? I am reluctant to waste money on another second hand ABS unit as the one I purchased was repaired already and supposedly worked fine. Any ideas welcome...

Thanks guys, Hope I can be of help or at least an amusing newbie!!

Hi....welcome to the Club Sorry to hear you are experiencing issues on what should be an up together car purchased from a Honda dealership. Clutches do wear if abused (short-shifting, pulling away in 2nd gear, etc) but as you say this could have been caused by the previous owner. Can you upload some photos of the old parts? In reference to the transmission, I can only imagine this may have occurred if the oil level is low or not even topped up after refitting. If not, then as they say it is very rare for a gearbox to fail on a Honda

Hi.....welcome to the Club How to Program a 2001 Honda CR-V Keyless Entry Remote Fob Step by Step How to Programming Instructions: Note: Entering the programming mode cancels all learned keyless remotes, so none of the previously programmed remotes will work. You must reprogram all of the keyless remotes once you are in the programming mode. You must complete each step within 5 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn ignition switch to ON (II) 2. Press the LOCK or UNLOCK button on one of the remotes. (An unprogrammed remote can be used for this step.) 3. Turn ignition switch to LOCK (0) 4. Repeat steps 1, 2 and 3 two more times using the same keyless remote used in step 2 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II) 6. Press the LOCK or UNLOCK button the same remote. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm you are in programming mode. 7. Press the LOCK or UNLOCK button on each remote you want to program. Make sure door locks cycle after you push each remote button to confirm system has accepted the remote. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit programming mode. 9. Test remote(s)

Hi Mr.B Accord and welcome to the Club

I purchased my Honda CRV from a Honda showroom; my sole reason was that my old car was old and high mileage and buying a newish car gives you the sense of security that there will be no fault. I have just hit a year and I have only done 4000 4500 miles on car due to covid reasons I started feeling here gear shift and occasional gear change that felt like two metal plates grinding. so, I took the car into to Honda as I paid for service and its under warranty. they asked me to leave the car for assessing for a day. I got a call back in afternoon car is ok to drive but there might something up, so we need to book it in for 2 days to look in gearbox and clutch. so, I handed my car in. 2 day later no call back. third day I call in to find out what is going on, manager calls back saying your clutch and flywheel is burnt, it will be 1800 quid, now I’m thinking I have driven my old car did 70000 miles on that car and never burnt a clutch, and being a newish car, I have been very precious about it. I asked to speak the person who was dealing with me before and I was put on to him. he said yes, the clutch is burnt u are welcome to come and have a look, in return I explained that I never ride a clutch and always use auto break on stop may be the issue was on previous owner as I haven’t even done that much mileage on car. to which this person replied when u buy a used car and the types a just above legal limit and u drive it does the previous owner have to pay for the worn-out tyre. no. so I went in to look at it and took my uncle for advice and I don’t know much about clutches and I have never seen a burnt clutch. this person wouldn’t talk to my uncle because my uncle stated the flywheel isn’t even bad it just needs a bit of clean. in return we were told Honda need to change parts we don’t clean. we replace part for part. We can try warranty claims with Honda, but they will decline it. at this point the Honda representative I was speaking to walked away and said I will only speak to the owner of the car. So, I went in on my own as asked what my options are, first thing he said was honestly we are a showroom, and we are here to make money. Then followed by it will be 300 pounds to put it back together. U can take it as it is 300 or 1800 to put new parts in, but for you ill sort you out and give u a call later with a price, at this point I said I want the old parts in the car and I want Honda to follow up with the claim as I still believe I haven’t done this damage to the car clutch and there is no way I can afford the price you are requesting hence the reason I bout a car from a proper Honda showroom and now form a private dealer. I said I want it fixed and went home waited on call for rest of the day. 15 mins before Honda shuts, I called in and requested a call back. I get a call back 5 mins before it shuts, and they said that I can do it for 1600 and u can pick the car up day after. I asked the old clutch and fly wheel in the boot of the car. As I want to follow up with Honda when you put the claim through. Next day they fitted he clutch and fly wheel. I arranged to pick up the car day after first thing in the morning. I went in and paid for the clutch and fly wheel 1600 pound, asked them if they followed up with the warranty for a claim, to which I got a reply, sorry we can’t, we will get in trouble. There’s a number online you can call to sort it out. So, I asked is the clutch and flywheel in the boot of the car he said ill go get it which I then stuck in the boot. So, I got in the car shuffled the gears and felt that gears were still stiffer then when I fort got it. I went back and spoke to the Honda representative again saying that’s the reason I brought the car in in the first place. To which I got a reply its normal in CRVs. Then I took a car for a 40 mins drive in which on top of the heavy gear shift I felt metal grind about 3 time going into 2nd and 4th. So, I went back and said this is still the issue the reason I brought the car in in the first place and it’s not a constant it happens every now and then. So, they got a technician to drive it and he came back said it perfectly normal. I asked the technician when the car was on ramp did u look in the gearbox and he replied no when we saw the clutch, we realised that was the problem and Honda’s gear boxes are solid. in my 10 years working here I have only had one faulty gearbox. I spoke to the manage again and said I want this raised as a concern he said we don’t have a system for that, so I asked to send me and email saying I and having gear shift issue with metal grind occasionally so when it comes to future you are not charging me an arm and a leg for it. He said that’s ok ill send you and email in an hour. I received an email from the manage which stated we checked the car its fine. Then I had to reply and say I wanted this logged as a concern that I am experiencing metal grind which I can feel in 2nd and 4th. So, you don’t charge me so much to fix. Je said ok I will log that and drive the car for 2 weeks and see if there are any issues then bring it back. In the meantime, I have had the clutch at home and my brother-in-law came to visit and saw the clutch. This is a person who has burnt a clutch in the past on his car and knows what it looks like, and he said the clutch isn’t even burnt its normal wear. And the pads are no were close to anywhere near the rivet. the clutch even has the pattern on the pads. I am still yet to take this clutch and flywheel to a garage to get it assessed. I just feel like I just have been ripped off by Honda because I didn’t have any burning clutch smell and no power loss or slippage and reason, I took in for was gears which I still think it exists. It doesn’t happen all the time but it’s happening. This experience has made me extremely stressed, and I feel like I have just completely lost trust in Honda. Reason I bout a car from dealership was so I don’t have issues like this. As a side note I purchased the car some where just over 9000 miles and it’s at 14000 now. What is people opinion. Please help.

Oh, I nearly forgot, also does anyone have links to a manual for this car, the only one I can find online is for the American versions (2.4 and V6). I was hoping for something a bit more detailed than a Haynes!

Welcome to honda owners club!

Hi, Just a link to Hondas part numbering lists. For all UK models for part numbers. https://www.parts-honda.uk/honda-cars

Hi, I realise this post is a few years old but........... This is a good place to check part numbers for all Hondas https://www.parts-honda.uk/honda-cars

Hi, I have acquired a 2001 Accord (CH7, F20B6). It is a UK car (rhd) but registered here in Spain (where I live) It looks like I have a leaking steering rack, I suspect the last owner didn't use the correct steering fluid. It has a TRW rack and although I contacted TRW, they put me in contact with their Spanish branch who said they couldn't help because RHD!!! Same reason is it not easy to get parts from car scrappies, they only have the LHD version. Does Anyone know if there is a seal kit available for this? Is there a difference between LHD and RHD seal kits? if they are only round /ring seals it should not be a problem? I also may need the high pressure hose from pump to rack, again problem because of driver side. Getting stuff from the UK is now getting expensive, due to all the added charges from Brexit, so wondering if there is a way round all this! Hope you guys can help

Hi all, New member,. I am new to Hondas but have been playing with cars and motorcycles for a lot of years. I live in Spain but have a UK RHD, Spanish registered, Accord 2001 2.0 Vtec (F20B6). I will have a few questions but will be asking them in the correct forum for the vehicle, rather than turning my introduction into a question fest!

Hullo all, I have a 2001 crv that does not have any door locking or unlocking buttons on the arm rest. When I unlock the car, if I do not put the key in the ignition, then the doors all automatically re-lock after 30 seconds regardless of whether the doors have been opened or not. This has only recently started to happen after having the battery disconnected. How do I turn off this feature please?

Hi, we have our Honda accord mk8 (2010) breaking for parts. Most parts available 2.2.I-Dtec estate/towerer It is listed in many places Any questions, feel free to aks NN15

1.6 engine in the UK

Let us know how it goes and would be good to see the end result

Thanks for the reply 🙂 I took it in for an inspection and the mechanic said it's OK for the age actually. I plan to take off some of the rust with a wirebrush drill attachement then treat it. Various perople have suggested different methods for treating it, the only thing in common so far is that they involve a lot of mess! But that's fine by me. I will probably use waxoyl like you say as I have some experience with it and I just want to stop it getting worse.

I am way past this stage - that is why I have contacted Honda. There is no data on my Prelude - Thanks for the help.

I run an old BMW Z3 and according to the ULEZ government site I can run this around the ULEZ zones in most cities as the restrictions seem to apply to Vans, Lorries, etc. Posted this below: if you put your registration in with the site then it asks if it is UK registered (which it is) and this is the result

Has anyone any experience importing a 2019 CRV Sports into the UK? I've had the car from New. It's so good I want to use it in the UK, did Honda sell the, 1.5 twin turbo variable drive in the UK?

Check auto trader, Ebay and gumtree.

Have You tried contacting, a compliant model through a local dealer?

Ok so I had the air conditioning specialist over again and he has now confirmed to me that it's the condenser that is leaking and that's wht the ac doesn't work. He quoted me £250 to replace with 2 year warranty and £300 if the pipe is needed.