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  1. Today
  2. Hi, The front nearside parking sensor on my 2011 CRV went wrong - dashboard displayed Check System and indicated which sensor was faulty. I replaced the sensor - the problem changed but did not go away. Now I do not get any faulty sensor indications - but as soon as I drop below 5mph - even if nothing within 100 metres of the car - the dashboard indicates that there is an obstacle close by - in other words the sensor reacts. Is there a way of rebooting the system, or maybe the sensor control module is faulty? I have seen these for sale but cannot find where they are located on the car - no mention in any manual I can find. Any suggestions would be appreciated Mark
  3. Yesterday
  4. Hi all. So I have this FR-V that's causing me headache for a while. It's a 2008 2.2 diesel with 6speed manual gearbox, just over 123k miles. Bought it with few issues that I thought will be easy to fix, but stuck at the moment.. The main issue is that the car is pulling to the left. The odd thing about it is that the pull is not consistent. I.e. in the morning, when you set off there's no noticeable pull, while couple roundabouts later, you really need to hold the steering wheel! Also the steering wheel seems to be easier to turn to left rather than right. Car recently had both front wheel bearings done, new track rod ends, second hand shocks (as I thought mine could be bent, but no effect after the change). The ball joints were showing no play (although quite old), suspension arm bushes do have some tears but far from loose. I fitted new brake discs and pads all round. Calipers looked like they been refurbished or such kit fitted not long time ago (this was probably a year ago). After fitting the brakes, I went for a short 40mile trip and after stopping at services I noticed brakes smelling. Rear ones were binding. I started taking things apart and found that the tricky part is that the caliper is fairly easy to compress back in, but once fitted to the car and brakes applied, they seem to stick. I managed to get all four calipers from another car and swapped only the rear carriers (because mine looked like got too much play). I just had 4 wheel alignment done and the car is still pulling to the left. May worth to note that I do have ABS VSA lights on (normally comes on when brakes applied heavily) due ABS block pressure sensor issue. I had replacement fitted but same issue appears to happen. Now I am running out of ideas, I spoke with the guy who did the alignment, he didn't see anything odd (or obvious) so suggests it may be brakes issue. I put the car up on jacks today, started the engine, spun all wheels and they seemed to be free enough, front is a little bit less easy (probably due transmission) but nothing odd. I then applied brakes and tried spinning wheels again and noticed all wheels, particularly front ones are a lot harder to spin and when you let go only does 1 maybe 1.5 turns. Can this be because of faulty ABS block? I am reluctant to waste money on another second hand ABS unit as the one I purchased was repaired already and supposedly worked fine. Any ideas welcome...
  5. Thanks guys, Hope I can be of help or at least an amusing newbie!!
  6. Hi....welcome to the Club Sorry to hear you are experiencing issues on what should be an up together car purchased from a Honda dealership. Clutches do wear if abused (short-shifting, pulling away in 2nd gear, etc) but as you say this could have been caused by the previous owner. Can you upload some photos of the old parts? In reference to the transmission, I can only imagine this may have occurred if the oil level is low or not even topped up after refitting. If not, then as they say it is very rare for a gearbox to fail on a Honda
  7. Hi.....welcome to the Club How to Program a 2001 Honda CR-V Keyless Entry Remote Fob Step by Step How to Programming Instructions: Note: Entering the programming mode cancels all learned keyless remotes, so none of the previously programmed remotes will work. You must reprogram all of the keyless remotes once you are in the programming mode. You must complete each step within 5 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn ignition switch to ON (II) 2. Press the LOCK or UNLOCK button on one of the remotes. (An unprogrammed remote can be used for this step.) 3. Turn ignition switch to LOCK (0) 4. Repeat steps 1, 2 and 3 two more times using the same keyless remote used in step 2 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II) 6. Press the LOCK or UNLOCK button the same remote. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm you are in programming mode. 7. Press the LOCK or UNLOCK button on each remote you want to program. Make sure door locks cycle after you push each remote button to confirm system has accepted the remote. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit programming mode. 9. Test remote(s)
  8. Last week
  9. Oh, I nearly forgot, also does anyone have links to a manual for this car, the only one I can find online is for the American versions (2.4 and V6). I was hoping for something a bit more detailed than a Haynes!
  10. Hi, Just a link to Hondas part numbering lists. For all UK models for part numbers. https://www.parts-honda.uk/honda-cars
  11. Hi, I realise this post is a few years old but........... This is a good place to check part numbers for all Hondas https://www.parts-honda.uk/honda-cars
  12. Hi, we have our Honda accord mk8 (2010) breaking for parts. Most parts available 2.2.I-Dtec estate/towerer It is listed in many places Any questions, feel free to aks NN15
  13. Let us know how it goes and would be good to see the end result
  14. I am way past this stage - that is why I have contacted Honda. There is no data on my Prelude - Thanks for the help.
  15. Check auto trader, Ebay and gumtree.
  16. Ok so I had the air conditioning specialist over again and he has now confirmed to me that it's the condenser that is leaking and that's wht the ac doesn't work. He quoted me £250 to replace with 2 year warranty and £300 if the pipe is needed.
  17. Earlier
  18. I think that I could be of help,having an extensive automobile background, and very inventive.
  19. b4u2


    @Trevor Unfortunately not
  20. If no one responds then make sure you carry a tape measure with you and if you see one in a car park then you can quickly measure it up before you attract unwanted attention 🙂 I have done this myself in the past
  21. It could be the aerial amplifier that has gone faulty or become unplugged? Also, check the band selection is correct
  22. Yes, you should definitely replace the auxiliary drivebelt at the same time as the pulley. The pulley is a common fault with Honda as they break up and worth replacing before it fails completely.
  23. There is an adaption that can be carried out with a scan tool ....suggest taking it to a Honda specialist garage but not necessarily a Honda dealership
  24. Always good to hear how good the CRV actually is as I'm sure most people who haven't owned one don't realise this 🙂
  25. I don't think they automatically unfold if you folded them in on the switch
  26. You may find something on eBay, alternatively you could find some other way of securing it
  27. Did you resolve the leaking sump issue? If not, then the fact that there is corrosion on the underside listed as an advisory then it would suggest that quite possibly the sump is also corroded which is potentially dangerous and will lead to engine failure.
  28. Here is a link to a few bits of info to connect in Apple Play https://www.google.com/search?q=honda+cr-v+2018+apple+play&rlz=1C5CHFA_enGB935GB935&ei=mkU_YfinBIb4gQbk1a-ABQ&oq=honda+cr-v+2018+apple+play&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAMyCggAEAgQDRAKEB46BwgAEEcQsAM6BggAEA0QCjoICAAQCBAHEB46CggAEAgQBxAKEB46CggAEA0QBRAKEB5KBAhBGABQ-OgBWN_tAWCx8AFoAXACeACAAUKIAbwCkgEBNZgBAKABAcgBCMABAQ&sclient=gws-wiz&ved=0ahUKEwj43Kie-_vyAhUGfMAKHeTqC1AQ4dUDCA4&uact=5
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