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Hi everyone, I’ve just brought an RN3. Got it for a great price as it needs a little TLC. I’m on the look out for a stock exhaust system as not a fan of the straight through drone. What parts are interchangeable on these? I’ve read that the chassis is an EP3 Civic stretched by 100mm so does that mean most EP3 parts will fit? I’ve seen the coilovers do with some other bits or the DC5’s. I’m thinking along the lines of brake upgrades, any interior parts to modernise it. centre console as mine doesn’t have one. Seats? Any luxury items from other models? Any exterior parts fit? Front bumpers / splitters etc?

Hi, names Kev, had my CR-V for about a year now. Also have a CB600F 🙂 Love all things Japanese when it comes to engines, also have a Suzuki Vitara, and a few other bits, couple of Honda and Yamaha boat engines. Cheers!

Its likley to be the door switch. Basically, your car doesnt know the door has been opened so, re-locks the doors incase you accidently unlocked it in your pocket. My renault trafic did it, was a door switch. Id imagine its, as your picture, that.

As above, if its complaining about a disk error its highly unlikley to be the disk, its the alpine head unit thats fitted as stock, the DVD lens unit fails. I ripped mine out and fitted a new Sony head unit with apple car play... much better.

I changed mine for Denso ones, and also Intermotor ones. Ended up just putting the genuine ones back. My car didnt like the other ones, all sorts of engine management lights.

I get this... oddly after i replaced the rear shocks and springs with Monroe units! I think maybe the top mounts are tired and need changing, will find out soon.

I have a pretty extensive tool collection (I'm an engineer) and found the only tools I could use with success were, 1. a quite short ring spanner with a fairly deep 90 degree crank each end (not modified), it only allowed a limited turn so was slow to undo. 2. I also used a short combination spanner. Once the nut was loose, it turned freely by hand. It was more of a pain to replace than to remove. I used a magnet on a rod to position the nut, then managed to turn it a little with a screwdriver just to start it, then by hand with a final tighten with the ring spanner. It fell off many times before i achieved success. I placed a cloth to cover the area, to prevent the nuts falling into any voids and getting lost. Ive now been driving the car regularly with no change to the good pedal firmness and smooth operation. The aftermarket slave cylinder appears to be operating ok still, time will tell.

Your wireless module behind the driver side door panel is not working properly. You will need to replace it with one that is fully functional. I've had two in my wife's 2001 CR-V that stopped working because water got in them. So when I bought this last one I made sure to put it in a medium sized sturdy Ziploc bag with the seal opening facing down, cut a small slit in the top left for the harness to get through then ziptied that part down and used a drill to quickly screw the screws back to keep the bag airtight where the screws go. Then I sealed the bottom. So far no water has penetrated the new module. The problem is water was seeping down into the module from the inner side of the door panel in my wife's CR-V. I don't know why, but this is a design defect in my opinion. I don't understand why the door weather strip can't keep water out of the driver side door panel, but my 2018 Honda Fit has the same problem, but worse! Water actually travels down and soaks the floor on the driver's side after a rain, and I have to dry it. I've actually called Honda and asked if there was a recall for this and the said no. Well, there should be!

Will check that out also. Im 99% sure its the shaft, it went really bad and i fitted a second hand one which fixed 90% of it, but I now have a new non genuine inner and outer shaft in the post.

Have thought about that route. Not a stranger to modified cars. Have previously had a 500hp drift build R33 and a VIP styled LS400 to name a few

Thanks Trevor! I had it locally, im only the 2nd owner, its just ticked over 100k on the clock. Was owned by an older couple and they were finding it a bit big and heavy to drive. I use it to tow my caravan, probably be better with a diesel but i love the reliability of the K20. Struggling to sort out a wobble (believed drive shaft, but we shall see!) Cheers! Kev

I Just recently joined the forum as I am hopefully getting my e:Ny1 delivered in around a week or so. It doesn't look like we have many 'E' owners here or are most 'lurkers' lol. Shout up and be counted, add a couple of pics of your ride for us all to look at! 🙂

Thanks so much for the review and feedback on your e:Ny1 ....and I'm not sure anyone is ready for an electric motorbike yet 🙂

My car is a honda hr-v year 2000 4wd 1.6cc petrol. This car was not ULEZ compliant until recently. As Transport for London only deems petrol cars with euro 4 standard as compliant, and my car is a 2000 model with a euro 3 standard, it automatically went into the non-compliance big sack. As I work just inside of London and need my car to get there, I was faced with the upheaval of replacing a perfectly working car for something else at considerable costs and hassle. I then by chance discovered that all hr-v models from 2001 onwards (petrol) are all automatically deemed compliant and do not have to pay the charge. As my car has the exact same engine as those later models I decided to do some research and then I discovered that the models for years 1999 and 2000 should also be registered as ULEZ compliant by TFL as they are low polluting vehicles. Their NOx values are 0.04 g/km which is well below the ULEZ euro 4 threshold of 0.08 NOx g/km. That's nearly half of the maximum NOx permitted for compliance. What I did to make it compliant and you will need to do if you want to do the same: Email Honda europe and request a CERTIFICATE OF CONFORMITY for your vehicle. This is their email; coc@honda-eu.com You will be asked to fill in a form, scan or take a pic with your phone and send back to them. They will send you the certificate of conformity in a letter to the address you have specified in this form. The letter may take up to 2 weeks to arrive. In the emissions section of your certificate your NOx should have a value of 0.041 g/km Then you have to register yourself and your car as a user with Transport for London through their page as this is requirement to contest the ULEZ status of your vehicle. You'll need to set up username, password and payment details so when you drive in the zones (congestion charge zone or ulez zone) you will be charged automatically. I had this set up a year ago or so to avoid a penalty charge in case I drove in and forgot to pay later etc, which is easier to do than it sounds. It takes a while to register but it's easy and you can de-register yourself after the process has finished if you wish. Once you have received the certificate of conformity you have to go on to TFL's ULEZ page and find a section where you can say your car should be ULEZ exempt. This is the link; https://tfl.gov.uk/modes/driving/compliance-registration/before-you-start You will be asked to upload your V5 vehicle document and the Certificate of Conformity as evidence of your claim. Add that your vehicle's NOx emissions fall bellow the ULEZ euro 4 standard of NOx 0.08 g/km and that you kindly ask for it to be registered as compliant and exempt from the charge. If the link fails, you can email Transport for London directly here; cclondon@cclondon.com and explain that your petrol car, even though being a (1999 or 2000) model it is still compliant as its NOx emissions fall bellow the euro 4 standard of NOx 0.08 g/km. Remember to attach the V5 document of your car and certificate of conformity as your evidence for the claim. Transport for London may take up to 10 working days to reply to your email, which in my case they did. I got an email with a pdf attachement saying that my application had been successful and I did not have to pay the charge. I also checked in their own website checker by introducing my registration and voi-la! my car appeared as compliant and exempt from the charge. Big hooray! A note of advice, your application may be rejected the first time by TFL saying that your car is listed as euro 3 and not euro 4 standard. If that is the case, just send email and politely request again that your car is registered as compliant based on its emissions and not its euro standard rating. If your NOx emissions are below 0.08 g/km and you have a certificate from your manufacturer with those values, then you car shouldn't pay ULEZ. I hope this can help anyone like it helped me. Good luck.

An Ode to the Internal Combustion Engine and me having to eat a lot of my earlier words! OK for those who know me well, I think its fair to describe me as a self confessed 'Petrol Head' In both business and pleasure much of my time has had something to do with cars, bikes, motorsport etc. I have heavily modified a LOT of cars and bikes over the years, engines, chassis, body etc etc. Designed and built chassis for companies such as Fraser Nash and some others as well as individual projects. I still love my cars and especially my motorbike and enjoy riding and driving as much for pleasure as transport itself Well, I found myself recently in the fortunate position of being able to order a new car, I quite enjoyed doing my research on various cars and after the usual due diligence something surprising repeatedly came up. The correct car, based on my usage case, economy etc was a full electric Battery EV... I ignored this for a bit, dismissing the gains as minor and I didn't want an EV, soulless and with dubious environment gains, range issues and lack of charging network were my excuses. However, the more I looked, the more an EV stood head and shoulders above an ICE (internal combustion engine) car. I mused this for quite some time and eventually, almost reluctantly decided to order a BEV (Battery Electric vehicle). More research and due diligence later and two particular cars were chosen as the most suitable candidates and one was ordered based on availability more than anything else... This brings me on to last Monday when I went and collected the car. Right, I'm sat in my new car, the handover and paperwork complete as well as a quick rundown on controls and charging etc etc, but due to a lack of demonstrator, I still had never driven an EV, nor even a Hybrid lol. Was I in for a shock! I started or rather turned on the car, and began to pull off, it was steady away, no gears other than forwards or backwards and the usual park and neutral (buttons rather than a gear stick or lever). The car moves forward in near silence, emitting only an almost ethereal whooshy sound, partly by the electric motor and partly from a sound system designed to alert pedestrians and such of your presence. Its most peculiar at first, its so much smoother, silent and refined, although I got used to it very quickly. At this point I was far from sold, yes it was really nice to drive, but it seemed initially to be equally soulless and devoid of character as I had feared and I was oddly missing the sound of an ICE engine and to a lesser degree gears... Next I decided to punch in 'Sport Mode' and test out the acceleration, on paper it should be reasonably brisk with an output over 200BHP and in excess of 320 Nm of torque. A nice straight, even and empty stretch of road that I deemed suitable was found for a quick test of the 0-60 acceleration. I have owned and driven plenty of cars with well above this level of power and was expecting it to be fun and brisk but not hugely impressive. Well, I hit the gas and to my amazement the car launched forward at a most surprising rate, especially from 0-50, where the instant and linear power delivery felt more like 300BHP plus due to that lack of power curve and instant power delivery! OK score one for the BEV! One of the main reasons for choosing the BEV was its economy, I am fortunate in that I have been able to fit a Home charger, meaning I can have extremely cheap 'off peak' electricity to charge the BEV every night. Based on my 'cheap rate' overnight charging this equates to less than 2 pence a mile, yes LESS than £0.02p a mile or put another way 200 miles for well under £4!! OK score two for the BEV! This is a game changer for me! One of my biggest worries was how far in the real world can I drive on a single charge and how bad is the public charging network in reality. This was a big part of my scepticism, 'Range Anxiety' is oft talked about by new EV drivers from my research and I too was worried about it. Firstly, I have seen figures of between 3.5 and 4 miles per kilowatt (Think of this as 'Lekky MPG') This was much closer to the range figures the manufacturer had given than I had expected and was oft reported by reviewers. It will drop lower in the winter for sure and using the heater / AC will also affect it to some degree also, but again a good start! As for the charger network in most places its actually pretty good, once I found a couple of apps for my phone I was amazed as to how many public charging points are available UK wide. Yes, some could charge a bit faster, some areas have less charge points than others, but I have found suitable charging spots for every conceivable journey I'm likely to make and a few crazy ones I doubt I would ever do! The truth of it is I don't ever really drive more than 200 miles without needing to have a break and a pee lol, you can fast charge the car at a motorway services in anything from 20-45 minutes, even 11 minutes will add 60 miles range! By the time you have had a bite to eat or a coffee its going to be pretty much ready for the next part of your journey. OK score three for the BEV! The BEVs are only getting better, in many ways I'm an early adopter of this technology and its very much still in its early days with big improvements in range and efficiency coming almost weekly! The main reason for me writing all this is because I was an EV 'doubter' in fact I was a 'hater' of EV's and didn't like the thought of such a profound change in my beloved cars and bikes etc. Notice I have said nothing about the 'environmental gains' associated with EV's? I have not done so because too much is made of this, it makes running an EV sound like an 'important sacrifice' we should feel compelled to make, where as in reality, they are actually really good fun to drive, massively cheaper to run (not to mention much cheaper to service and more reliable) as well as more comfortable. The fact that they emit 0 pollution is just a great bonus, but before we all feel very smug and green, we need to think about where and how our 'green' electricity is made!! (But that's a whole 'nother' story as they say) I hope this might make another Petrol head like myself give EV's a fair shot before listening to the 'Herd' You will very likely be quite surprised. There is one caveat though, I DONT want an electric motorbike (yet at anyways lol)

OK I picked up my new e:Ny1 Advance yesterday (pics attached) First impressions are really good, especially given as it has such poor reviews on YouTube etc. Build quality is usual Honda, very good and well though out but also has a few Honda quirks such as the rather pointless rear sunroof shades lol (who thought that was a good idea??? lol) Ergonomically and visually the interior is almost perfect and so much nicer than many Korean or Chinese and similar BEVs with their 'starship' designs (OK maybe I'm getting long in the tooth and old lol). It feels surprisingly roomy (especially in the back!). Well appointed does not cover half of the goodies that come standard in the Advance model and even the usually 'intrusive' driving aids are not too bad! Now that Honda have slashed £5k off the asking price of this car and allowing for the insane level of goodies fitted as standard, it starts to make quite good value and a far more sensible purchase than on its original release. One worry was the range, many testers stating very poor real world results... I have been getting around 3.8-4km per kilowatt, admittedly that's in Eco mode, only light use of the AC and fairly sedate driving, but not without some fun occasionally in sport mode trying out the power 🙂 This is pretty close to the stated 256 mile range. Of course no heat-pump, so winter will see this drop a good amount, but it has eased my fears about winter range considerably! Performance is really quite impressive given its a family small SUV although as some testers did report, 200BHP with a linear torque curve of an EV does overpower the front tires quite easily, but nothing scary and rather good fun! I'm struggling to understand the lack of love for this car, yes its no Type R, nor is it a high end luxury wagon, but for a solid all rounder, family SUV with a stylish if understated look and great features baked in as standard I am super happy with my purchase (and I tried a LOT of cars before I went for the 'Erny' lol I hope this might be of use to anyone thinking about this car... Try one, you may be surprised 🙂

Hi JB, I don't see any replies to your question. How far did you get with your investigation/research? I am taking an eight hour ferry trip and was also concerned about the tilt alarm being activated but apparently, for my 2015 CRV, there is no tilt alarm. The stock alarm is activated by forced entry to the tailgate/bonnet and cabin but there is no tilt. Does this confirm what you found out? Regards Dick

Well after finding some tiny black dots floating on the surface of my clean clutch fluid reservoir, I removed the master cylinder (again), stripped and examined. Wiping my finger around the piston seal (furthest from pedal) I found more tiny black particles. I obviously suspected a faulty seal. Having read about the problems many others have experienced with aftermarket CMC's I decided to bite the bullet and go HONDA, stupidly expensive. Changing the CMC is a PIA so I removed the drivers seat to gain better access, lay on my back, head in the footwell. Cleaned, fitted, hours spent bleeding the system, I finally had a very nice feel to the pedal. Could be just in my head, but the operation now feels smoother with the clutch operation. Ive been using the car frequently since, with consistent good operation, no change to the pedal feel and feeling optimistic that the problem is fixed. However, I was quite happy for a while after fitting the replacement aftermarket CMC some time ago, but that ended badly, wait and see how this goes.

Ok thanks. In the end my wife took it to the dreaded Halfords who jumped it and fitted the battery. Thankfully the engine management light the jump threw up cleared and the battery is all good. I'd imagine it didn't require coding.

Its not just cars, think I could do with some WD40 on a daily basis sometimes 🙂

Thanks Trevor as always. Is it something that happens to must cars as they get older? Alan

It's an easy fix; the auto transmission fluid needs to be changed at regular intervals (specific CVT requirement) and when the fluid is losing it's edge the judder is noticeable. Make sure that you use genuine Honda CVT fluid, it's an easy enough job and I've been doing my wife's car ever since the dealer warranty expired; it's 21 years old now.

Thanks Alan gsd Did try the WD40 solution but unfortunately for me, it didn’t work. However I started doing some more logical testing as to when the door locks was activated. My analysis was: 1.0. The locks only triggered after 30 sec if the large back door was open. 2.0. Then I started looking the door sensor (see photo). The spring on that has come off so when the door is opened the lever doesn’t retract to the open position. when I manually slide the lever to the open position, the doors don’t lock. Could be I have cracked it, just need either a new lever or a compatible spring.

Common problem. I have a 2006 and the unit works fine apart from Sat Nav which doesnt work and displays the disc reading error. At first, not knowing much about the car, I thought cleaning the unit and disc might fix it, but it didnt. Then I started reading about the fault from other owners and discovered that people have tried using other discs with no luck. The general opinion is forget trying to fix the problem, even if you could get it working the data is completely out of date. Advice is to buy a modern, portable Sat Nav unit, which is a fairly cheap solution and wouild be far better in its data content and operation. Or, take the unit out and replace it with a complete new modern unit, which is a costly option. I now only use the unit to listen to the radio and have a screen mounted Garmin Sat Nav, sometimes even using my smart phone in a suction mount and one of the many Map Apps.