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Hi I am in a small village on the outskirts of Swansea I have a 55 reg Accord with 98,000 plus on the clock but still running as sweet as a nut. It was recalled a couple of years ago because of a possible paassenger air bag deployment which would fill the passengers face with shards of plastic. Last year the air bag light came on and my very good and trusted garage sorted it for me. The air bag squib wass £690 and I got the conputer, which could not be reset, vrom Lithuania (identical number). Have any othger members had the same problem. Do any of the members know of a reliable Honda specialst garage in the Swansea area, please? All the best to one and all Chris1939

That's very helpful Trevor, thank you Dave

The problem started shortly after purchase and before I started towing which was in any case short lived. I thought that it could be a dodgy fuel filter but with a cost of about £160!!!, I will wait until the next service is required before fitting one. There is no misfire or lumpy tickover.

Hi, Having had several months with an audio problem with my mk 4 (2015) CR-V I thought others may benefit from my resolution! Problem As topic title, I experienced a buzzing/electrical noise back in spring 2022 after a 30-minute drive in the rain. I’ve checked the micro blade fuses under the bonnet and passenger glove compartment and all are intact. The rear speakers are operating normally, so it’s only the front speakers with the problem. The unwanted noise seems to differ. It’s more obvious (higher pitch) when accelerating compared to coasting (foot off the accelerator). You do hear a difference too when changing gears. The Bluetooth phone audio, radio, CD audio and the sat nav audio all suffer from poor audio in the front speakers only. You can only just make out what’s being said on the sat nav or phone audio but they are still working just barely but very, very faint. The noise is continuous as soon as the key is turned prior to starting the engine. The noise only stops when there is no more electrical current in the car. A local garage removed the head unit, saw no signs of damage and assumed it was a faulty head unit. After I was quoted for a new Honda head unit (£3,655), I was advised ‘better go to Halfords’ for an after-market head unit instead. Halfords fitted a new Pioneer 7” unit but unfortunately the electrical noise output remained the same after taking time to book me in, fit the new unit, order extra adapters, all of which took several weeks. So it has been confirmed the original Honda head unit is not faulty and the problem is elsewhere and I got my original head unit fitted back in. Halfords (to their credit) kindly gave me a full refund. Two visits to a Honda dealership did give them time to investigate the problem. Various checks on the speakers, connections and battery were all checked and working fine. It was at the end of the second visit the Honda technician came across the audio amplifier unit (part number: 39186-T1G-G612-M1 and see photos attached) that he was 75-80% sure may be the issue. New, it costs £800, but I got a used unit from eBay for £30 from a newer Honda (any vehicle type: petrol/diesel/auto/manual is OK). Solution It was my third visit to Honda, one hour later, the unit was swapped and the problem was solved! BINGO! The technician did tell me he's never seen this problem before and didn't realise my Honda had premium audio (hence the amplifier). Hopefully anyone else with this issue will benefit from my write-up. After over £400 labour (Honda and non-Honda dealerships), problem solved! If you experience this audio issue, likely your Honda has the same thing. Do the research and find out if it has premium audio with the same/similar amplifier - you never know! I didn't fit it myself so can't comment on this but was told it took an hour in total. Best wishes, James.

Hi! Currently own an 07 Accord sport 2.2 i-CTDi with the premium sound system with bluetooth and voice control ( that never gets used) I live in Lancashire and just getting started on a journey of modding the car.☺️ Not sure what else to say so any questions ask away

Hi all, just got my first ever Honda (2010 Accord Tourer EX 2.2 dtec) and loving it. Hoping to be an active member here and look forward to mucking in. Cheers

Bars were fine; didn't move and they haven't marked the paintwork as I feared they might. Bear in mind the limited distance between front and back bars. Hope someone finds this useful.

Hi.....welcome to the Club! Lexus are definitely there with Honda in reliability and build quality, just cheaper to run the Honda as you have already stated. Good to have you onboard

Hi all, I've just joined the forum, as I'm on the hunt for yet another Honda. I've always liked them and my wife and I own a 2008 Accord 2.4 EX Auto. (last UK gen) I've owned 7 Honda's in my lifetime, including our current one. I'm looking to change out of my Lexus GS430 as I'm a bit bored of spending half my time at the petrol station (but it's such a good car!) I'll be asking for some advice on here, just get opinions in addition to the test drives I will be doing.

I have heard of this issue before but without searching this site for the solution I cannot remember what the problem with the buzzer. Try the search function first to see what comes up

There was a post on this on the old Honda Karma/H-Tune forums before they disappeared, can't remember everything that was mentioned but offhand: look for rust around the wheel arches brakes have a habit of binding when the callipers get stuck Otherwise in general they're reliable cars - automatic and manual. Not applicable to the model you've mentioned but: pre-2007 petrol models (1.7L and 2.0L engine) are a target for catalytic converter thieves, so it's likely that the catalytic converter will not be the original one. From 2007 onwards the catalytic converter is in the engine bay so much more difficult to steal. possibly something about the flywheel on diesels but I can't remember what

Hi see my post earlier ( to Sue I think ) on how to "force download" to restore an earlier disc - mine is 2005 version 2.1 but if it works on yours it saves paying out cash when you can do it yourself for nowt ! If you can`t find the earlier post - let me know and I will re-post it to you, its a bit fiddley but hey if it works !

Hi, have you tried "force download " on your nav ? it sometimes needs to be re-set if you have a problem !

Now sold.

Hi there. I had the same problem, but I cleaned the joint with a rust brush by adding Radiator Flushes For Rust directly to the joint. This helps to get rid of rust and mold faster. Then you need to rinse in gasoline and dry and can be used. It should work. At least it helped me

Hi. Just giving some friendly advice about what brands of clutch and flywheel to fit following a three week debacle we've had. I bought a Borg and Beck clutch and Valeo dual mass flywheel (DMF) from parts in motion as they were a great price and respected brands. These were about £60 cheaper than LUK and as at the time LUK were out of stock I opted for these. Big mistake. To shorten the story, the clutch and DMF were fitted correctly by a decent garage and the gear lever really had to be forced to engage gears, 5th and reverse were particularly difficult especially when the engine was hot. The garage was reluctant to give back to me but as we needed the car we took back. It was awful. Parts in motion acknowledged the problem without quibble and sent out an LUK clutch (at extra cost) as it was deemed this was the problem as Borg and beck is a non adjustable clutch, luk is self adjusting and OEM spec. Fitted this, same problem. Labour bill now £416. Advised parts in motion, and again, without quibble, sent out an LUK flywheel and bolts and gave me a 10% discount for the hassle. All now fitted (another £180) and the car drives like new. So advice is, Only use matching clutch and DMF not mis matched brands and I suggest only LUK. No reason why it shouldn't work with other brands according to catalogues but thought I'd share the advice. Parts in motion are now going through their warranty procedure to get me the £416 labour returned for incompatible parts and original parts cost back a further £478.98. Hope this helps someone as surely frv/CRV/civic and accord would have similar issues.

Hi I had some problems but with the alpine unit on a 2005 crv, I did a hard reboot by pulling the power leads for ten minutes when you reconnect it should reboot system and GPS , there is a guy in North London that fixes honda sat navs he had an add on E bay

update !! Still got the problem. Cold weather opens, beeps, then closes again. Warm weather opens as it should = perfect ! also closes off key or button as it should. Any advise out there please, its driving me potty !!!!!!!!!!!!!!