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Picked my advance aqua topaz up a few days ago and although the handover was problematic I’m enjoying the car. I’ve just taken it on a short break and driving experience was good. I’m finding the steering a bit lighter than the Hrv which makes for a more pleasant driving experience. I like the large screen which divides into three separate areas and seems user friendly. The drivers seat adjustment is now electronic and I found it difficult to get the perfect position….just a small niggle. Early days but don’t think I will regret the change.

I've not had much luck buying from China via Ebay lost a few ££££££ so wouldn't chance it unless you can afford to take a chance.

The same as when driving, tyre pressures increase on their own in hot weather. I don't know if the tyre pressure alarm points can be altered in the car to allow for the extra pressure in the tyres ( I'm not overly familiar with the Jazz as it's my wifes), but if not then you could physically lower the tyre pressures by a couple of lbs to stop the alarm showing. Don't forget to increase the pressures when the weather cools down. There should be enough leeway in the settings to allow for some variation in pressures.

I am a new member and wanted to ask if anyone would like to buy the above?

Reading about other people's issues with vehicles, particularly EV's on the internet sites, many are giving advice on how to do this. Believe me it is not something you really want to do. For example, after six months of issues, the burden of proof shifts to you—you must prove that the fault was present at the time of purchase. Not all faults present themselves within this time frame and you will still be charged for usage, mileage and damage, however small this may be! depreciation, Etc. Etc. Best to try and sort out your complaints under the manufacturer's warranty. Keep a journal of all that crops up, dates, places, pictures of visual warnings displayed on the instrument panel, speed at the time, where it occurred, what other interventions did you do to try and clear or correct the fault, if possible, how long it lasted. It all becomes a nightmare. Not easy to do, best avoided.

Is everyone with a EN:Y1 aware there is a software update at your dealer to update the charging of the vehicle, not sure what it is for exactly but getting it done this Friday. Possibly to cure faults arising following fast charge...

Purchased new in April 2003, just clocked 166,000 miles! I am one of a dwindling number of Stream owners I guess, used to see a few running around but very rare now. The most reliable car I have ever owned, although I guess my previous vehicles were not at all comparable! Started off learning to drive in a Ford Escort Mk3. Briefly took lessons in a Mini (original style) but soon back to the Escort. First car I owned was an Austin Allegro 1500HL. I know these have a bad reputation but the transverse OHC engine was a doddle to maintain and apart from squeaky hydro-gas suspension and a thirst for oil, it ran rather well actually. A big boot on it but a letterbox opening to it! All I could manage on a meagre salary. Built in 1979, it was six years old when I bought it, and it lasted three years until it got written off in an accident. Next car was not a stunner either. Morris Ital (a restyled Marina) from 1981, it was seven years old when I bought it as the third owner. A bit of a dinosaur of a car with niggling issues although it ran ok. Was not comfortable at speed though and a bit of a bus! Had that car for four years before I sold it to a Marina enthusiast and I believe it was scrapped a year or two later. I then bought a one year old Rover 214SLi which has 20,000 miles on it and owner by Rover Fleet Management. A nice car, ran well but the K series engine had its usual head gasket problems. It did open my eyes to Honda though, as I saw the Concerto version as a superior version of the same car. Head gasket replaced at 65,000 miles and I had the car until I bought the Stream in 2003, and then my wife had it for three more years until the head gasket went again at 125,000 miles and we scrapped it and my wife bought a three-year old Honda Jazz with just 14,000 miles on it and one previous owner in 2006. Now, the Jazz is still running, but has gone through a couple of exhausts but nothing else wrong with it. A nice little runner and ULEZ compliant so living just outside Greater London it has survived the Sadiq Khan Cull. But the Stream has soldiered on and has been driven all over the country, up to Scotland a few times, down to Devon and Cornwall many more times, all over East Anglia, the Midlands and South West. Its been in Wales too! It still has the original stainless steel exhaust I asked for as an optional extra when I bought the car. Faults are few but the Stream has served me well. The are only two times I needed to call out the AA was once when I was running the air-conditioning whilst working on my laptop in the car at a car park and was not running the engine (it was a very hot day) and I drained the battery, and the other time was when I foolishly rushed through a flood of water and filled a cylinder with water! When the AA came to my aid he towed me out and helpfully removed the drenched air filter and the spark plugs. I was then told to turn the engine and it was rather odd seeing water being ejected from the plugs like fountains! Once he got it running again he joked that I had a Honda Steam as the exhaust was chugging out the condensate. A rough ride home with the check engine light on, but a new air filter and a short run to check all was ok and it was. I have the K20A1 1998cc engine which is a really good performer, but i was having a spot of bother with the check engine light coming on now and again. Using my Autolec D519 ODM I was able to find out that I had a misfire on one cylinder, so I changed the plugs and caps and that cleared that up, but then I was getting a knock sensor fault with an occasional additional catalytic convertor performance warning. I had been using 95 RON petrol as regular fuel in this car, with 97 RON sometimes when doing the hills on holiday trips. However, this fault emerged after a year of using the newer E10 95 RON blended fuel and I suspected that there was some rough running due to the lower grade of fuel. After using a few doses of Redex to clean the fuel system and the injectors, and using E5 fuel instead, good performance was restored and no further warnings came up. Went through the MOT no worries and, like the Jazz, although both are considerably older than many of the cars that are now banned from London unless the ULEZ charge is paid, these cars remain compliant because Honda had the wisdom to achieve better performance well in advance of the new regulations. I knew this when I bought the car but back in 2003, when ULEZ was not on the horizon. I am convinced that, so long as the bodywork holds up, the engine will pass 200,000 comfortably and if I still have the car in April 2028 it will be a veteran of 25 years with one careful, very satisfied, owner. I have seen comments on YouTube that if you have a car with a K20 engine you should never sell it because it will just go on, and on, and on. It's true! I certainly will consider Honda for my next car, and quite like the CR-V and the Civic models, but I am impressed with the Jazz and its Crossstar variant too, which my wife and I took out on a test drive a few months back. I know combustion engines are under threat, but if I do change I think I am likely to choose a plug-in hybrid as that will mean I can drive electric for most short journeys and not be range restricted for the longer drives across the UK and parts of Europe.

Hi there, I'm selling my much loved DC5, it's absolutely stunning and if you're in the market for a DC5 I strongly expect this is one of the very best out there. I really want the car to go to another enthusiast, someone who will look after it as well as myself. https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/18463363 Thanks for looking.

Me and the missus have owned this car for 15 years, we bought it with 14000 miles on in 2010 and it was my pride and joy. We are moving to Devon in the next few weeks and unfortunately we have to let it go as its not really suitable for the local roads down there. This has been my wifes daily driver for the most part as I have a company car. Its done 97000 miles and been serviced every 10k (some main dealer when it was newer). Its had the transmission fluid changed and Ive recently spruced it up with replacement bumpers and headlight restoration. It has had some paint but in general its a really tidy example with none of the usual water ingress that seems to be common. Air con works but needs re-gassing. Absolutley bomb proof this car. If there are no takers on here its getting traded in for the wifes new car. Sensible offers please. Photos to follow. A chance to own a genuine low mileage 2 owner car thats been looked after and cared for. Its not been hammered or driven hard. I even put the original Bridgestone Potenza tyres on it until they stopped making them. Message me if youre interested. Cheers

Hello, I live in Cornwall and recently acquired a 2012 1.4 Honda Jazz. I had a couple of Accords back in the 80’s and quite a few Honda bikes.

Hi Tiz, have you looked at these ites?? https://hondaspareparts.co.uk/collections/discontinued-parts?srsltid=AfmBOooXh0sPT4xdU8LmRqY3qqXYnlAdsMZQs1kzkyU7VYgAjns1oGDl https://www.parts-honda.uk/

Just purchased 1999 HRV in immaculate condition with only 28,000 verified miles. Only issue is when initially pulling off the car shudders/vibrates occasionally but only for a few seconds then drives perfectly. I've heard comment of transmission fluid and filter? Is that possible?

Members Very sad to have to let my CRV go. Petrol, auto, 2002 183,000 miles £250, been in the family from new..The cat was cut out/stolen while parked. Most times she passed her MOT first time and very sad to see her go. No MOT and not taxed. She would need to be towed or put on a trailer. Location Sutton Coldfield, West Midlands.

Hi, I have just found this site and joined. I purchased a ENY:1 recently, so I'm really interested in other owners experiences and opinions.

I would say when accelerating very lightly but only at the lower speeds of between 20 to 30mph, seems better once warmed up, looking at the service history the differential oil was done 3 years ago but cant see any history of a ATF fluid change so may just book that in, will also ask them if they have any software updates for the transmission.

i had the same problem on my 2009 crv and i cleared it by removing the nozzle and attaching my electric tyre pump to hose with a adapter used to inflate airbeds and blowing air back towards the wash bottle.it cleared my line and i haven't had a problem since.hope this helps as got to be easier than removing all the panels to get to the hose.

Hi Trev...Thanks for the reply....I'm just about to go to the garage...unfortunately there were no codes to be read which seems quite strange....I've just taken the car around the block this morning and it was fine, so I'm thinking it's to do with transmission once the oil has warmed up,...the engine it's self whilst out of gear sounds fine, so that's points to transmission too, but of course I guess there are lots of other potential candidates which I wouldn't have a clue about,filters,sensors, Cats and so on...again many thanks...John

Timing belt breaking? More than likely a tensioner or guide pulley out of alignment (usually some grit on the fitting side of the tensioner and the belt walks off)

Hi all, just purchased my second CRV, only had the last one for around 11 months, well impressed thought i would like a hybrid to try. Tried a 21 plate ex, loved it, and thought you know what this is for me, so yep bought it. Just one point, the car has folding door mirrors which i work manually from the door switch. Is there a way to automatically fold them when i lock the car with the remote? Anyway she's a brilliant car, called yeah yeah you guessed, Hondo. Bye all have a great time with your "Hondo's" atb Dave

I would be tempted to remove the cover from the inside of the tailgate and see if you can secure the trim from behind (maybe a self tapping screw would be sufficient to hold it)

Apologies - double post due to browser crash. Paul

battery would have to be pretty poor to flatten in 4 minutes,

Ah, Now I have a 2005 Mk 2 and wanting to err on the side of caution asked my mechanic mate who sold me the car to change the timing belt. I was corrected straight away and told they have a chain. So emboldened with new knowledge, I asked him to change the chain. When he stopped laughing he pointed out that the cost would be in the region of £900, and this guy doesn't rip people off. He said that providing the correct oil is regularly changed the chain SHOULD outlast the car. I'm not 100% happy with this, knowing what the consequences of a broken chain are, but he simply reminds me that the car, immaculate I might add when I bought it back in October only cost me £500. So I will change the oil very often and keep the fingers crossed firmly. My one and only fear is that the chain could go on a motorway or other busy road with my two dogs in the back, but check the internet and the same remark comes up, "regular oil and filter change will help to ensure the existing chain outlives the car.🤞

Thanks for all the help and advice on the subject guys. Done and dusted, or rather polished!

Not sorted it's gone back to its habit of turning the non-charge schedule OFF for no reason. It's going in to dealer Jan

Cheers Trevor.

Give this company a try https://www.iceboxauto.com/iba-honda-entertainment-systems

Shold have been Oh dear hahahahah ! I've stop using it now

Just had to replace my CRV with another, this time the 2ltr petrol I-MMD version. Now need to get used to a new driving style.

not sure of the differences but worth asking Honda parts department who could give you the relevant part numbers

Recently renewed MOT, some minor problems, but still roadworthy. Mileage is 207,000; colour Red. Contact me for further info (I would love to part-exchange, but wishful thinking) I got offered scrap value far less than any parts on it are worth (yes, I would sell if you wanted it for parts) Oh yes, recent new Alternator fitted. Edit: recent MOT expiry date 25/10/25

My car is a honda hr-v year 2000 4wd 1.6cc petrol. This car was not ULEZ compliant until recently. As Transport for London only deems petrol cars with euro 4 standard as compliant, and my car is a 2000 model with a euro 3 standard, it automatically went into the non-compliance big sack. As I work just inside of London and need my car to get there, I was faced with the upheaval of replacing a perfectly working car for something else at considerable costs and hassle. I then by chance discovered that all hr-v models from 2001 onwards (petrol) are all automatically deemed compliant and do not have to pay the charge. As my car has the exact same engine as those later models I decided to do some research and then I discovered that the models for years 1999 and 2000 should also be registered as ULEZ compliant by TFL as they are low polluting vehicles. Their NOx values are 0.04 g/km which is well below the ULEZ euro 4 threshold of 0.08 NOx g/km. That's nearly half of the maximum NOx permitted for compliance. What I did to make it compliant and you will need to do if you want to do the same: Email Honda europe and request a CERTIFICATE OF CONFORMITY for your vehicle. This is their email; coc@honda-eu.com You will be asked to fill in a form, scan or take a pic with your phone and send back to them. They will send you the certificate of conformity in a letter to the address you have specified in this form. The letter may take up to 2 weeks to arrive. In the emissions section of your certificate your NOx should have a value of 0.041 g/km Then you have to register yourself and your car as a user with Transport for London through their page as this is requirement to contest the ULEZ status of your vehicle. You'll need to set up username, password and payment details so when you drive in the zones (congestion charge zone or ulez zone) you will be charged automatically. I had this set up a year ago or so to avoid a penalty charge in case I drove in and forgot to pay later etc, which is easier to do than it sounds. It takes a while to register but it's easy and you can de-register yourself after the process has finished if you wish. Once you have received the certificate of conformity you have to go on to TFL's ULEZ page and find a section where you can say your car should be ULEZ exempt. This is the link; https://tfl.gov.uk/modes/driving/compliance-registration/before-you-start You will be asked to upload your V5 vehicle document and the Certificate of Conformity as evidence of your claim. Add that your vehicle's NOx emissions fall bellow the ULEZ euro 4 standard of NOx 0.08 g/km and that you kindly ask for it to be registered as compliant and exempt from the charge. If the link fails, you can email Transport for London directly here; cclondon@cclondon.com and explain that your petrol car, even though being a (1999 or 2000) model it is still compliant as its NOx emissions fall bellow the euro 4 standard of NOx 0.08 g/km. Remember to attach the V5 document of your car and certificate of conformity as your evidence for the claim. Transport for London may take up to 10 working days to reply to your email, which in my case they did. I got an email with a pdf attachement saying that my application had been successful and I did not have to pay the charge. I also checked in their own website checker by introducing my registration and voi-la! my car appeared as compliant and exempt from the charge. Big hooray! A note of advice, your application may be rejected the first time by TFL saying that your car is listed as euro 3 and not euro 4 standard. If that is the case, just send email and politely request again that your car is registered as compliant based on its emissions and not its euro standard rating. If your NOx emissions are below 0.08 g/km and you have a certificate from your manufacturer with those values, then you car shouldn't pay ULEZ. I hope this can help anyone like it helped me. Good luck.

Thanks a lot to BEL HR-V for writing above, I followed his guide, I also managed to make my 2000, Honda Civic EJ9 ULEZ compliant, with D14Z2 which has a NOx of 0,045 which is less than 0.08 g/km with HC: 0.129 g/km, follow the process above which is written by BEL HR-V 1. Apply for COC in https://www.honda.co.uk/cars/owners/certificate-conformity.html( can take up to 2 weeks they send only by post so be patient) 2. Sign up in TFL website and Apply to become ULEZ 3. Upload the COC + V5 photos(all pages, can take up to 2 weeks, they send by email) 4. Ensure to mention your car is registered as compliant based on its emissions and not its euro standard rating 5. Any issues email cclondon@cclondon.com, check your spam folder for reply or call them on 0343 222 2222

Yes i have found some information on roof rack, apparently thule fitting kit for Daihatsu sirion will work. But so far all attempts at finding a towbar have failed. Not giving up yet tho. Yes i have import too.

Good solution to stop dash reflections, use carbon black cooker hood filter material, it kills reflections and only costs £3-99 a large sheet

This worked for me a couple of months ago: https://support.garmin.com/en-GB/?faq=4qpP6QRT6r105RJ1sELgM7#:~:text=Honda vehicles with Garmin Navigation,map updates at no cost

Welcome 🙂

Hi there everyone, I have owned a honda stepwagon 2010 rk5 for nearly a year now and its an amazing car. I am currently looking for a few bits for its next mot like discs n pads, tie rods and suspension arms or all the bushes. I heard that honda use the same parts already available for other models and I am hoping someon1e knows this information because buying the parts that are sold just stating stepwagons are ridiculously overpriced. Kind regards Christian

Hi Christian, just wondering how did you get on with searching for your honda stepwagon rk5 2010 parts search? Yes I'd have to agree with you on the ridiculous price for parts, absolute joke some of these traders. I won't go into names you've already come across them no doubt, I too have had the same issues,

Hello and welcome 🙂

An Ode to the Internal Combustion Engine and me having to eat a lot of my earlier words! OK for those who know me well, I think its fair to describe me as a self confessed 'Petrol Head' In both business and pleasure much of my time has had something to do with cars, bikes, motorsport etc. I have heavily modified a LOT of cars and bikes over the years, engines, chassis, body etc etc. Designed and built chassis for companies such as Fraser Nash and some others as well as individual projects. I still love my cars and especially my motorbike and enjoy riding and driving as much for pleasure as transport itself Well, I found myself recently in the fortunate position of being able to order a new car, I quite enjoyed doing my research on various cars and after the usual due diligence something surprising repeatedly came up. The correct car, based on my usage case, economy etc was a full electric Battery EV... I ignored this for a bit, dismissing the gains as minor and I didn't want an EV, soulless and with dubious environment gains, range issues and lack of charging network were my excuses. However, the more I looked, the more an EV stood head and shoulders above an ICE (internal combustion engine) car. I mused this for quite some time and eventually, almost reluctantly decided to order a BEV (Battery Electric vehicle). More research and due diligence later and two particular cars were chosen as the most suitable candidates and one was ordered based on availability more than anything else... This brings me on to last Monday when I went and collected the car. Right, I'm sat in my new car, the handover and paperwork complete as well as a quick rundown on controls and charging etc etc, but due to a lack of demonstrator, I still had never driven an EV, nor even a Hybrid lol. Was I in for a shock! I started or rather turned on the car, and began to pull off, it was steady away, no gears other than forwards or backwards and the usual park and neutral (buttons rather than a gear stick or lever). The car moves forward in near silence, emitting only an almost ethereal whooshy sound, partly by the electric motor and partly from a sound system designed to alert pedestrians and such of your presence. Its most peculiar at first, its so much smoother, silent and refined, although I got used to it very quickly. At this point I was far from sold, yes it was really nice to drive, but it seemed initially to be equally soulless and devoid of character as I had feared and I was oddly missing the sound of an ICE engine and to a lesser degree gears... Next I decided to punch in 'Sport Mode' and test out the acceleration, on paper it should be reasonably brisk with an output over 200BHP and in excess of 320 Nm of torque. A nice straight, even and empty stretch of road that I deemed suitable was found for a quick test of the 0-60 acceleration. I have owned and driven plenty of cars with well above this level of power and was expecting it to be fun and brisk but not hugely impressive. Well, I hit the gas and to my amazement the car launched forward at a most surprising rate, especially from 0-50, where the instant and linear power delivery felt more like 300BHP plus due to that lack of power curve and instant power delivery! OK score one for the BEV! One of the main reasons for choosing the BEV was its economy, I am fortunate in that I have been able to fit a Home charger, meaning I can have extremely cheap 'off peak' electricity to charge the BEV every night. Based on my 'cheap rate' overnight charging this equates to less than 2 pence a mile, yes LESS than £0.02p a mile or put another way 200 miles for well under £4!! OK score two for the BEV! This is a game changer for me! One of my biggest worries was how far in the real world can I drive on a single charge and how bad is the public charging network in reality. This was a big part of my scepticism, 'Range Anxiety' is oft talked about by new EV drivers from my research and I too was worried about it. Firstly, I have seen figures of between 3.5 and 4 miles per kilowatt (Think of this as 'Lekky MPG') This was much closer to the range figures the manufacturer had given than I had expected and was oft reported by reviewers. It will drop lower in the winter for sure and using the heater / AC will also affect it to some degree also, but again a good start! As for the charger network in most places its actually pretty good, once I found a couple of apps for my phone I was amazed as to how many public charging points are available UK wide. Yes, some could charge a bit faster, some areas have less charge points than others, but I have found suitable charging spots for every conceivable journey I'm likely to make and a few crazy ones I doubt I would ever do! The truth of it is I don't ever really drive more than 200 miles without needing to have a break and a pee lol, you can fast charge the car at a motorway services in anything from 20-45 minutes, even 11 minutes will add 60 miles range! By the time you have had a bite to eat or a coffee its going to be pretty much ready for the next part of your journey. OK score three for the BEV! The BEVs are only getting better, in many ways I'm an early adopter of this technology and its very much still in its early days with big improvements in range and efficiency coming almost weekly! The main reason for me writing all this is because I was an EV 'doubter' in fact I was a 'hater' of EV's and didn't like the thought of such a profound change in my beloved cars and bikes etc. Notice I have said nothing about the 'environmental gains' associated with EV's? I have not done so because too much is made of this, it makes running an EV sound like an 'important sacrifice' we should feel compelled to make, where as in reality, they are actually really good fun to drive, massively cheaper to run (not to mention much cheaper to service and more reliable) as well as more comfortable. The fact that they emit 0 pollution is just a great bonus, but before we all feel very smug and green, we need to think about where and how our 'green' electricity is made!! (But that's a whole 'nother' story as they say) I hope this might make another Petrol head like myself give EV's a fair shot before listening to the 'Herd' You will very likely be quite surprised. There is one caveat though, I DONT want an electric motorbike (yet at anyways lol)

Hi Trevor Thanks for pinning, was hoping it was not too controversial. Regards Kel

Hi Sensescaper, you do not need to take the bumper off, you need to turn the wheels fully to the left or the right depending on what side your changing, remove the inner wheel arch lining and reach in through there. I agree it's not easy and you need fairly long arms but that's the way in. if you have the manual it tells you how to do it in there. I used to do 30K a year in my 2010 Accord Tourer and would have to change the bulbs at least once a year, so worth buying the expensive bulbs rather than the cheap ones. Got 257K out of mine, before chopping it in, a great car. Everything still worked and was still getting 48 mpg on my commute, same clutch same exhaust.