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My car is a honda hr-v year 2000 4wd 1.6cc petrol. This car was not ULEZ compliant until recently. As Transport for London only deems petrol cars with euro 4 standard as compliant, and my car is a 2000 model with a euro 3 standard, it automatically went into the non-compliance big sack. As I work just inside of London and need my car to get there, I was faced with the upheaval of replacing a perfectly working car for something else at considerable costs and hassle. I then by chance discovered that all hr-v models from 2001 onwards (petrol) are all automatically deemed compliant and do not have to pay the charge. As my car has the exact same engine as those later models I decided to do some research and then I discovered that the models for years 1999 and 2000 should also be registered as ULEZ compliant by TFL as they are low polluting vehicles. Their NOx values are 0.04 g/km which is well below the ULEZ euro 4 threshold of 0.08 NOx g/km. That's nearly half of the maximum NOx permitted for compliance. What I did to make it compliant and you will need to do if you want to do the same: Email Honda europe and request a CERTIFICATE OF CONFORMITY for your vehicle. This is their email; coc@honda-eu.com You will be asked to fill in a form, scan or take a pic with your phone and send back to them. They will send you the certificate of conformity in a letter to the address you have specified in this form. The letter may take up to 2 weeks to arrive. In the emissions section of your certificate your NOx should have a value of 0.041 g/km Then you have to register yourself and your car as a user with Transport for London through their page as this is requirement to contest the ULEZ status of your vehicle. You'll need to set up username, password and payment details so when you drive in the zones (congestion charge zone or ulez zone) you will be charged automatically. I had this set up a year ago or so to avoid a penalty charge in case I drove in and forgot to pay later etc, which is easier to do than it sounds. It takes a while to register but it's easy and you can de-register yourself after the process has finished if you wish. Once you have received the certificate of conformity you have to go on to TFL's ULEZ page and find a section where you can say your car should be ULEZ exempt. This is the link; https://tfl.gov.uk/modes/driving/compliance-registration/before-you-start You will be asked to upload your V5 vehicle document and the Certificate of Conformity as evidence of your claim. Add that your vehicle's NOx emissions fall bellow the ULEZ euro 4 standard of NOx 0.08 g/km and that you kindly ask for it to be registered as compliant and exempt from the charge. If the link fails, you can email Transport for London directly here; cclondon@cclondon.com and explain that your petrol car, even though being a (1999 or 2000) model it is still compliant as its NOx emissions fall bellow the euro 4 standard of NOx 0.08 g/km. Remember to attach the V5 document of your car and certificate of conformity as your evidence for the claim. Transport for London may take up to 10 working days to reply to your email, which in my case they did. I got an email with a pdf attachement saying that my application had been successful and I did not have to pay the charge. I also checked in their own website checker by introducing my registration and voi-la! my car appeared as compliant and exempt from the charge. Big hooray! A note of advice, your application may be rejected the first time by TFL saying that your car is listed as euro 3 and not euro 4 standard. If that is the case, just send email and politely request again that your car is registered as compliant based on its emissions and not its euro standard rating. If your NOx emissions are below 0.08 g/km and you have a certificate from your manufacturer with those values, then you car shouldn't pay ULEZ. I hope this can help anyone like it helped me. Good luck.

Picked my advance aqua topaz up a few days ago and although the handover was problematic I’m enjoying the car. I’ve just taken it on a short break and driving experience was good. I’m finding the steering a bit lighter than the Hrv which makes for a more pleasant driving experience. I like the large screen which divides into three separate areas and seems user friendly. The drivers seat adjustment is now electronic and I found it difficult to get the perfect position….just a small niggle. Early days but don’t think I will regret the change.

An Ode to the Internal Combustion Engine and me having to eat a lot of my earlier words! OK for those who know me well, I think its fair to describe me as a self confessed 'Petrol Head' In both business and pleasure much of my time has had something to do with cars, bikes, motorsport etc. I have heavily modified a LOT of cars and bikes over the years, engines, chassis, body etc etc. Designed and built chassis for companies such as Fraser Nash and some others as well as individual projects. I still love my cars and especially my motorbike and enjoy riding and driving as much for pleasure as transport itself Well, I found myself recently in the fortunate position of being able to order a new car, I quite enjoyed doing my research on various cars and after the usual due diligence something surprising repeatedly came up. The correct car, based on my usage case, economy etc was a full electric Battery EV... I ignored this for a bit, dismissing the gains as minor and I didn't want an EV, soulless and with dubious environment gains, range issues and lack of charging network were my excuses. However, the more I looked, the more an EV stood head and shoulders above an ICE (internal combustion engine) car. I mused this for quite some time and eventually, almost reluctantly decided to order a BEV (Battery Electric vehicle). More research and due diligence later and two particular cars were chosen as the most suitable candidates and one was ordered based on availability more than anything else... This brings me on to last Monday when I went and collected the car. Right, I'm sat in my new car, the handover and paperwork complete as well as a quick rundown on controls and charging etc etc, but due to a lack of demonstrator, I still had never driven an EV, nor even a Hybrid lol. Was I in for a shock! I started or rather turned on the car, and began to pull off, it was steady away, no gears other than forwards or backwards and the usual park and neutral (buttons rather than a gear stick or lever). The car moves forward in near silence, emitting only an almost ethereal whooshy sound, partly by the electric motor and partly from a sound system designed to alert pedestrians and such of your presence. Its most peculiar at first, its so much smoother, silent and refined, although I got used to it very quickly. At this point I was far from sold, yes it was really nice to drive, but it seemed initially to be equally soulless and devoid of character as I had feared and I was oddly missing the sound of an ICE engine and to a lesser degree gears... Next I decided to punch in 'Sport Mode' and test out the acceleration, on paper it should be reasonably brisk with an output over 200BHP and in excess of 320 Nm of torque. A nice straight, even and empty stretch of road that I deemed suitable was found for a quick test of the 0-60 acceleration. I have owned and driven plenty of cars with well above this level of power and was expecting it to be fun and brisk but not hugely impressive. Well, I hit the gas and to my amazement the car launched forward at a most surprising rate, especially from 0-50, where the instant and linear power delivery felt more like 300BHP plus due to that lack of power curve and instant power delivery! OK score one for the BEV! One of the main reasons for choosing the BEV was its economy, I am fortunate in that I have been able to fit a Home charger, meaning I can have extremely cheap 'off peak' electricity to charge the BEV every night. Based on my 'cheap rate' overnight charging this equates to less than 2 pence a mile, yes LESS than £0.02p a mile or put another way 200 miles for well under £4!! OK score two for the BEV! This is a game changer for me! One of my biggest worries was how far in the real world can I drive on a single charge and how bad is the public charging network in reality. This was a big part of my scepticism, 'Range Anxiety' is oft talked about by new EV drivers from my research and I too was worried about it. Firstly, I have seen figures of between 3.5 and 4 miles per kilowatt (Think of this as 'Lekky MPG') This was much closer to the range figures the manufacturer had given than I had expected and was oft reported by reviewers. It will drop lower in the winter for sure and using the heater / AC will also affect it to some degree also, but again a good start! As for the charger network in most places its actually pretty good, once I found a couple of apps for my phone I was amazed as to how many public charging points are available UK wide. Yes, some could charge a bit faster, some areas have less charge points than others, but I have found suitable charging spots for every conceivable journey I'm likely to make and a few crazy ones I doubt I would ever do! The truth of it is I don't ever really drive more than 200 miles without needing to have a break and a pee lol, you can fast charge the car at a motorway services in anything from 20-45 minutes, even 11 minutes will add 60 miles range! By the time you have had a bite to eat or a coffee its going to be pretty much ready for the next part of your journey. OK score three for the BEV! The BEVs are only getting better, in many ways I'm an early adopter of this technology and its very much still in its early days with big improvements in range and efficiency coming almost weekly! The main reason for me writing all this is because I was an EV 'doubter' in fact I was a 'hater' of EV's and didn't like the thought of such a profound change in my beloved cars and bikes etc. Notice I have said nothing about the 'environmental gains' associated with EV's? I have not done so because too much is made of this, it makes running an EV sound like an 'important sacrifice' we should feel compelled to make, where as in reality, they are actually really good fun to drive, massively cheaper to run (not to mention much cheaper to service and more reliable) as well as more comfortable. The fact that they emit 0 pollution is just a great bonus, but before we all feel very smug and green, we need to think about where and how our 'green' electricity is made!! (But that's a whole 'nother' story as they say) I hope this might make another Petrol head like myself give EV's a fair shot before listening to the 'Herd' You will very likely be quite surprised. There is one caveat though, I DONT want an electric motorbike (yet at anyways lol)

Honda vehicles are widely regarded as reliable and dependable cars, known for their longevity and solid build quality. While not always the most exciting to drive, they are generally considered a safe and practical choice, especially for those prioritizing dependability and low maintenance. Here's a more detailed look at Honda's reputation: Reliability: Honda consistently ranks high in reliability surveys and has a strong reputation for producing vehicles that last a long time with minimal issues. What Car? reports that Honda's latest models and older models (like the 2012-2018 CR-V and 2012-2017 Civic) are highly rated for reliability. The brand experiences a low fault rate, with the main areas of concern being the 12-volt battery and non-engine electrics. Honda typically covers the cost of repairs in a large percentage of cases, and many cars are back on the road quickly. Honda's commitment to quality control in manufacturing contributes to its reliability. Engine Performance: Honda is known for its efficient and reliable engine technology, including their hybrid powertrains. The e:HEV powertrain in the CR-V, for example, is a testament to their focus on optimizing engine performance, fuel economy, and longevity. Considerations: While generally reliable, some specific models or years might have reported issues. Some older Honda models might have issues with the 1.5L engine or head gasket failure. In terms of driver assistance features, some basic trims might lack advanced safety systems like adaptive cruise control, lane-keeping assist, and automatic emergency braking. Overall: Honda cars generally offer a good balance of reliability, practicality, and fuel efficiency, making them a popular choice for many drivers. While they might not always be the most exciting or feature-rich vehicles on the market, their reputation for dependability and longevity is well-deserved.

Reading about other people's issues with vehicles, particularly EV's on the internet sites, many are giving advice on how to do this. Believe me it is not something you really want to do. For example, after six months of issues, the burden of proof shifts to you—you must prove that the fault was present at the time of purchase. Not all faults present themselves within this time frame and you will still be charged for usage, mileage and damage, however small this may be! depreciation, Etc. Etc. Best to try and sort out your complaints under the manufacturer's warranty. Keep a journal of all that crops up, dates, places, pictures of visual warnings displayed on the instrument panel, speed at the time, where it occurred, what other interventions did you do to try and clear or correct the fault, if possible, how long it lasted. It all becomes a nightmare. Not easy to do, best avoided.

Purchased new in April 2003, just clocked 166,000 miles! I am one of a dwindling number of Stream owners I guess, used to see a few running around but very rare now. The most reliable car I have ever owned, although I guess my previous vehicles were not at all comparable! Started off learning to drive in a Ford Escort Mk3. Briefly took lessons in a Mini (original style) but soon back to the Escort. First car I owned was an Austin Allegro 1500HL. I know these have a bad reputation but the transverse OHC engine was a doddle to maintain and apart from squeaky hydro-gas suspension and a thirst for oil, it ran rather well actually. A big boot on it but a letterbox opening to it! All I could manage on a meagre salary. Built in 1979, it was six years old when I bought it, and it lasted three years until it got written off in an accident. Next car was not a stunner either. Morris Ital (a restyled Marina) from 1981, it was seven years old when I bought it as the third owner. A bit of a dinosaur of a car with niggling issues although it ran ok. Was not comfortable at speed though and a bit of a bus! Had that car for four years before I sold it to a Marina enthusiast and I believe it was scrapped a year or two later. I then bought a one year old Rover 214SLi which has 20,000 miles on it and owner by Rover Fleet Management. A nice car, ran well but the K series engine had its usual head gasket problems. It did open my eyes to Honda though, as I saw the Concerto version as a superior version of the same car. Head gasket replaced at 65,000 miles and I had the car until I bought the Stream in 2003, and then my wife had it for three more years until the head gasket went again at 125,000 miles and we scrapped it and my wife bought a three-year old Honda Jazz with just 14,000 miles on it and one previous owner in 2006. Now, the Jazz is still running, but has gone through a couple of exhausts but nothing else wrong with it. A nice little runner and ULEZ compliant so living just outside Greater London it has survived the Sadiq Khan Cull. But the Stream has soldiered on and has been driven all over the country, up to Scotland a few times, down to Devon and Cornwall many more times, all over East Anglia, the Midlands and South West. Its been in Wales too! It still has the original stainless steel exhaust I asked for as an optional extra when I bought the car. Faults are few but the Stream has served me well. The are only two times I needed to call out the AA was once when I was running the air-conditioning whilst working on my laptop in the car at a car park and was not running the engine (it was a very hot day) and I drained the battery, and the other time was when I foolishly rushed through a flood of water and filled a cylinder with water! When the AA came to my aid he towed me out and helpfully removed the drenched air filter and the spark plugs. I was then told to turn the engine and it was rather odd seeing water being ejected from the plugs like fountains! Once he got it running again he joked that I had a Honda Steam as the exhaust was chugging out the condensate. A rough ride home with the check engine light on, but a new air filter and a short run to check all was ok and it was. I have the K20A1 1998cc engine which is a really good performer, but i was having a spot of bother with the check engine light coming on now and again. Using my Autolec D519 ODM I was able to find out that I had a misfire on one cylinder, so I changed the plugs and caps and that cleared that up, but then I was getting a knock sensor fault with an occasional additional catalytic convertor performance warning. I had been using 95 RON petrol as regular fuel in this car, with 97 RON sometimes when doing the hills on holiday trips. However, this fault emerged after a year of using the newer E10 95 RON blended fuel and I suspected that there was some rough running due to the lower grade of fuel. After using a few doses of Redex to clean the fuel system and the injectors, and using E5 fuel instead, good performance was restored and no further warnings came up. Went through the MOT no worries and, like the Jazz, although both are considerably older than many of the cars that are now banned from London unless the ULEZ charge is paid, these cars remain compliant because Honda had the wisdom to achieve better performance well in advance of the new regulations. I knew this when I bought the car but back in 2003, when ULEZ was not on the horizon. I am convinced that, so long as the bodywork holds up, the engine will pass 200,000 comfortably and if I still have the car in April 2028 it will be a veteran of 25 years with one careful, very satisfied, owner. I have seen comments on YouTube that if you have a car with a K20 engine you should never sell it because it will just go on, and on, and on. It's true! I certainly will consider Honda for my next car, and quite like the CR-V and the Civic models, but I am impressed with the Jazz and its Crossstar variant too, which my wife and I took out on a test drive a few months back. I know combustion engines are under threat, but if I do change I think I am likely to choose a plug-in hybrid as that will mean I can drive electric for most short journeys and not be range restricted for the longer drives across the UK and parts of Europe.

My 2021 CR-V went into Brayley’s Honda, Ewell on 17 December 2024 and they identified the problem as the Brake Pedal Simulator. The part was ordered on 18 December, none were available in the UK so the part was put on ‘back order’ and finally arrived from Japan on 14 March. With the repair completed, I got the car back on 19 March 2025 after 92-days! Have to say that Brayley’s, who thought I qualified for a complementary hire car were pretty good but Honda UK were awful. They said that I was not entitled to a hire car as my vehicle was out of warranty even though the repair was being fixed as a ‘warranty’ repair and Honda were picking up the full cost of the part and labour. Brayley’s loaned me a vehicle for 4-days so that I could visit my 99-year-old father on his birthday but I had to pay £30 to cover insurance. The MOT was due while the vehicle was in the garage and Brayley’s picked up the cost as a good will gesture – well done Brayley’s. One of the reasons I purchased a Honda in the first place was due to their reliability…..As I left the service area/showroom one of the sales people ask me if I wanted to discuss burying a new Honda – what do you think I said?

Just purchased 1999 HRV in immaculate condition with only 28,000 verified miles. Only issue is when initially pulling off the car shudders/vibrates occasionally but only for a few seconds then drives perfectly. I've heard comment of transmission fluid and filter? Is that possible?

BTW I eventually realised that the mystery symbol instructs the driver to press on the brake pedal before turning on the ignition and starter. So it is nothing to do with the problem.But I would still welcome comments on my non-starting problem.

I would start by checking the gearbox oil and see if there is enough in there and maybe consider replacing the oil? Another way to avoid the crunching is the using the old method known as double declutching. Or even a slight blip on the throttle on downshifting can also work to eliminate the gear crunching

I have had recalls sorted free of charge at my local honda dealer and they normally check the car over to make sure everything works as it should.

Hi, I have just found this site and joined. I purchased a ENY:1 recently, so I'm really interested in other owners experiences and opinions.

i had the same problem on my 2009 crv and i cleared it by removing the nozzle and attaching my electric tyre pump to hose with a adapter used to inflate airbeds and blowing air back towards the wash bottle.it cleared my line and i haven't had a problem since.hope this helps as got to be easier than removing all the panels to get to the hose.

Hi Trev...Thanks for the reply....I'm just about to go to the garage...unfortunately there were no codes to be read which seems quite strange....I've just taken the car around the block this morning and it was fine, so I'm thinking it's to do with transmission once the oil has warmed up,...the engine it's self whilst out of gear sounds fine, so that's points to transmission too, but of course I guess there are lots of other potential candidates which I wouldn't have a clue about,filters,sensors, Cats and so on...again many thanks...John

battery would have to be pretty poor to flatten in 4 minutes,

Thanks Trevor, bit late to wish you the same but I hope you had the best of times. been preoccupied by dog related things for a couple of months hopefully that's is all sorted now. Wishing everyone what hopefully will be a better year than 24

Thanks for all the help and advice on the subject guys. Done and dusted, or rather polished!

Hi folks, Yesterday I purchased a 1997 Legend saloon, one owner from new and 63k genuine miles. A whole 16 days of MOT left..... Does need a bit of fettling but what a machine! Tom

So, was collected and driven back by a member of staff. I followed thinking what have I done, why did I buy it and what am I going to do with it??!! Back at work and in the yard and all the staff came out to take the p155. Having been sat for several months unloved, it was rather dirty with moss nicely growing in certain areas, nice! So, the one lad who laughed the most at my latest financial disaster was assigned the job of cleaning it 😊 Insured and taxed it and at 5pm I was off home (pub) for my maiden journey, it’s 2.6 miles to said home and in that short time it felt great. The seats are like armchairs and it’s whisper quiet. Although alarmingly the fuel gauge moved on that short journey, it does that often! We are very busy at work so apart from a wash and a levels check, I decided to dump my Merc in the yard and carry on driving the new steed. First load of fuel went in and off I went, wafting around in a £500 car that I knew nothing about, what could possibly go wrong? As part of my job I travel to carry out estimates on vehicles that require restoration/repairs. Just so happened day 3 of ownership, I had to do a 50 mile round trip to a customers, obviously took the Legend…. Didn’t miss a beat, well it had a funny noise on L/H bends but hey ho! The following weekend I treated it to the quickest of quick machine polishes, wow it a big car! Will post pics of the results honest! Now it was a little shiny green machine, I started to like this car, like a lot… Carried on driving it everyday, then realised MOT was due in 3 days… No worries, got it booked in for 31st Oct at 13.00. Thought we best have a little look to show willing, thankfully one of my guys is a true Honda fan (Lee I blame you for this purchase) and he got it on the lift for a good look round. I mentioned the ‘cha cha cha’ noise in passing so wheels came off the rear, started taking the pads out and the material fell on the floor…. That will be the noise then! Obviously, parts for Legends are plenty full….. BUT, seeing at they share a lot of the braking parts with other Honda’s, pads were on the shelf at our motor factors (thanks Autosupplies) discs were ordered and delivered the next day, the day of the MOT… Thankfully Lee go the car on the lift, replaced rear discs and pads, road tested and parked on the front ready for it’s MOT with 45 mins to spare. My other tech Dave, took it round for the MOT and the tester couldn’t believe what good condition it was in underneath, so 40 minutes later a clean MOT was received and I could then make a plan going forward. As I bought it with only 2 weeks mot, I wasn’t going to spend much money until I knew it was a ‘goodun’ More fuel went into the surprisingly small tank and I carried on driving it everyday. Full service kit ordered and fitted. So far in the 4 weeks in my ownership it has covered 700 luxurious miles, it just gets better and better! Apart from the fuel, £260 of super unleaded has so far been pumped into the tank, to be fair I still have ¾ of a tank left as of today. Right, next instalment will be the issues with it and the plan going forward 😊 Oh and what i have purchased so far........

Bought a 2005 Accord 2.4 exc for £1k as a project car, car had full Honda service history but pulled to the right, sorted out that issue by changing the warped rota and flushing the power steering fluid and filled with Honda spec plus fitted a new aux belt, now car drives great, so far have fitted a ugen style spoiler , piper cross air filter and painted the front grill, Mods line up to be done cat back exhaust, coilovers, remap type s body kit 18 inch alloys will update photos as i go

Hi, like others here I have just bought a honda jade import. Am looking for the OEM or ID and a supplier/source of the tie rod as it is apparently unlike other Honda ones. may also need to replace the ball joint as the rubber appears a bit cracked. any help or advice appreciated. bee

Right....... A bit of history of said LEGend.... Vehicle was originally purchased new from B & H Motors, 1460 High Road, London. First registered 8th August 1997 to the gentleman I purchased the car from on 15th October 2024, so some 27 years in the same ownership. Colour is Eucalyptus Pearl green (colour code G-83P) with Black leather interior. Spec of these are pretty good, 4 electric windows ( 2 of them work but we will come back to that later), electric sunroof, climate control, 6 disc cd changer, heated front seats, remote central locking, plenty of airbags, traction control, cruise control etc. Which for a ’97 model car I don’t think is to bad. It’s got service history right from its PDI on 7th August 1997, first service carried out 21st August 1998 with 4167 miles, next on the 18th September 1999 with 10149 miles, 7th August 2000 with 16588 miles to include coolant and brake fluid change, 4th August 2001 with 22296 miles, 20th July 2002 with 28028 miles to include coolant change, brake fluid change and cambelt, 4th August 2003 with 36302 miles, 21st July 2004 with 40635 miles, 19th July 2007 with 45599 miles, 23rd July 2008 with 46628 miles, 28th July 2009 with 48026 miles, 1st August 2010 with 49156 miles. That’s when the odometer failed.. but service’s carried on annually from independent garages (invoices supplied). During 2007 the owner moved jobs/retired so the Legend wasn’t doing journeys to London for work so was used to ‘potter’ about. As mentioned, a hand written note stated the rough mileage over the years since the odometer failed. If this is correct then the car has ticked over 63k miles. Will only know the true mileage once the odometer is fixed, apparently the mileage is stored in the ‘brain’. Last 3 years he has only used it to go from his house to church twice a week (12 miles) and the local Sainsburys once a week (5 miles)…. The original handbook is present and correct, still has the original Honda supplying dealer business card. Every MOT certificate is in the file along with lots of invoices! Regarding the number plate, when registered it was assigned R274 VLW, which could only have stayed on the car for a short while because its 1st MOT has the plate LIL 2***, this number is on his wifes car today! In 2012, the number plate it has on today M16 BUP was assigned/registered to it. He told me the story of said plate. His grandchildren purchased the cherished plate for him as a present, the significance of the plate is M (he was born in May), 16 (was born on the 16th) and BUP because they used to call him Buppy when they were children! I’m very tempted to put the original plate back on the car and give him back the M16 BUP on a retention certificate. Wow, didn’t realise I could waffle on so much! Apologies and if you have read this far, thank you. Have I missed anything out on it’s history? To be continued………

Sorry, just got back on here! Sailed through it's MOT with no advisories i'm pleased to say 🙂

Just had to replace my CRV with another, this time the 2ltr petrol I-MMD version. Now need to get used to a new driving style.

Honda has marked 25 years of hybrid performance with the European debut of the Prelude Concept and confirmation that the production model will return to the region ahead of its first public appearance at the Goodwood Festival of Speed from 11-14 July. Following the concept model’s reveal at the Japan Mobility Show last year, Prelude is set to deliver the perfect balance of exhilarating driving pleasure and outstanding efficiency – embodying Honda’s long-term commitment to electrification in a stylish and dynamic package. The original Prelude made its European debut 45 years ago and served as a thrilling, high-performance showcase of Honda’s cutting-edge technology for five generations until 2001. The new model promises to be a fitting return for the renowned nameplate, as it delivers a compelling blend of style and sophistication alongside a hybrid powertrain. The name “Prelude” refers to an introductory piece of music, and appropriately positions the car as a forerunner to future models that embody Honda’s commitment to sports performance – an example of Honda bringing the “joy of driving” to customers across Europe. Tomoyuki Yamagami, Chief Engineer and Large Project Leader, Honda Motor, said: “The new Prelude not only marks the latest chapter in our ever evolving hybrid story, it is also the product of 25 years of pioneering hybrid research and development. Ensuring this model maintains its ‘sporty’ DNA by perfectly blending the efficiency and environmental advantages of electrified driving with an exhilarating experience behind the wheel – liberating users from their daily lives with increased driving pleasure.” “In addition, the Prelude demonstrates the continued importance of hybrid powertrains as part of Honda’s automobile electrification strategy – a key step towards our commitment for 100% of new vehicle sales to be battery electric or hydrogen fuel cell by 2040.” 25-Years of Hybrid Performance This year sees Honda celebrate a quarter of a century of pioneering hybrid expertise, following the arrival of the revolutionary Insight coupe as Europe’s first mass-produced hybrid model back in 1999. Ever since, the brand has pioneered the development of petrol-electric powertrain technology, with a range of models that have helped drivers make the smoothest, most convenient, and cost-effective switch to an electrified future. Following the arrival of the Insight, Honda launched the Civic IMA in 2003, which paired a continuously variable transmission (CVT) with a 1.3-litre i-VTEC 4-cylinder engine and 20-horsepower electric motor to offer increased fuel efficiency. Seven-years later, the CR-Z was introduced, combining Honda’s unique IMA parallel hybrid system with a 1.5-litre petrol engine and manual transmission to offer an ideal balance between engaging driving dynamics and fuel economy. In 2011, Jazz Hybrid continued to offer the practicality for which it was known – including “Magic Seats” and 300-litres of boot space – thanks to the compact nature of the Honda IMA hybrid system. Five years later and the arrival of the NSX saw the introduction of the most-technologically-advanced all-wheel drive hybrid powertrain of the time to the supercar segment. Today, Honda’s mainstream automobile range is fully electrified, with Jazz, Civic, HR-V, ZR-V and CR-V all available with e:HEV powertrains as standard. Featuring advanced powertrains that shift seamlessly between EV, hybrid and engine drive with no input from the driver, they all combine exceptional ease-of-use with a rewarding driving experience, alongside highly competitive efficiency and emissions.

its usually written in the service book, audio handbook or a separate card in the vehicle wallet If not then the dealer should be able to look up the number (probably for a small charge)

A tow of three seats, one single and a double, and the folding double from he back of the Stepwagon. All covered in cream faux leather and in excellent condition. Free to a good home. Collection from Exeter.

I measured the battery voltage with a multimeter. It was around 2.3V when it should have been 3.3! I guess one of the cells inside the battery must have suddenly failed to cause such a sudden voltage drop. I replaced the battery with another of the same batch and so far, so good.

Yes i have found some information on roof rack, apparently thule fitting kit for Daihatsu sirion will work. But so far all attempts at finding a towbar have failed. Not giving up yet tho. Yes i have import too.

This worked for me a couple of months ago: https://support.garmin.com/en-GB/?faq=4qpP6QRT6r105RJ1sELgM7#:~:text=Honda vehicles with Garmin Navigation,map updates at no cost

Welcome jps71, sorry if no one has said hello. Lots of great advice and help on here if you ever need it Alan

Welcome 🙂

Hi Christian, just wondering how did you get on with searching for your honda stepwagon rk5 2010 parts search? Yes I'd have to agree with you on the ridiculous price for parts, absolute joke some of these traders. I won't go into names you've already come across them no doubt, I too have had the same issues,

I like to call it 'adaptive engineering'

If i had to make an educated guess, you need either a slave cylinder, a clutch kit or both.

I think what you have said here "Some issues occasionally with clutch pedal - would press down and it wouldn't engage clutch so would have to come back up and press down again" is your clue. Sounds to me like either your Master, Slave or concentric bearing was failing, and has now gone altogether (I assume you have a Hydraulic clutch) ?

Hello guys, I am the proud owner of a 1999 Honda Ballade 150i Luxline automatic. Before I got it, it was only driven by a little old duck every Sunday. I'm pleased to be on board. Hond.

Good afternoon and greetings to all from sunny Shropshire. I am at the start of my BEV adventure, having placed my order for an NY1 Advance yesterday, so the learning begins, what charger, tethered or untethered, where to site (inside or outside garage) etc......... any hints, tips or suggestions will be very welcome from those who haven trodden this road before me. In the meantime I await to hear the actual delivery date of my shiny new vehicle. I will happily post pics and first impressions after it's delivery. This is not my first Honda, more a return to the fold, but my wife has had a succession of the Jazz model over the past 20 years - she currently has a Crosstar hybrid.

Hello and welcome 🙂

@lurch9494 , Thanks for this real world review ! i`m hoping to get my EnY1 fairly soon and i`m looking forward to it even more having read this . I will , however stick to my ZZR1400 for the bike stuff for now lol

Hello and Welcome 🙂

Hi, names Kev, had my CR-V for about a year now. Also have a CB600F 🙂 Love all things Japanese when it comes to engines, also have a Suzuki Vitara, and a few other bits, couple of Honda and Yamaha boat engines. Cheers!

I have a pretty extensive tool collection (I'm an engineer) and found the only tools I could use with success were, 1. a quite short ring spanner with a fairly deep 90 degree crank each end (not modified), it only allowed a limited turn so was slow to undo. 2. I also used a short combination spanner. Once the nut was loose, it turned freely by hand. It was more of a pain to replace than to remove. I used a magnet on a rod to position the nut, then managed to turn it a little with a screwdriver just to start it, then by hand with a final tighten with the ring spanner. It fell off many times before i achieved success. I placed a cloth to cover the area, to prevent the nuts falling into any voids and getting lost. Ive now been driving the car regularly with no change to the good pedal firmness and smooth operation. The aftermarket slave cylinder appears to be operating ok still, time will tell.

Have thought about that route. Not a stranger to modified cars. Have previously had a 500hp drift build R33 and a VIP styled LS400 to name a few

After numerous garages failed to sort the problem I took it to a man I found on Facebook, it turned out it was a computer problem. I think he rebooted the system and cleared the fault and I haven’t had any problem since. If you live near the Sheffield area I can give you his name. I was also advised not to use cruise control anymore as this adds to the problem.