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One for the MODS.....Trevor & Steve

I would personally remove the tray as it will actually increase the corrosion. The tray is fitted by the manufacturer for several reasons....reduce oil leaks reaching the road surface or driveway, noise reduction, aerodynamics and increased fuel economy and many other reasons but none that would be vital if you removed it completely. If there is dirt, corrosion or loose components beneath the cover you would never know. Seems strange if it has been serviced that it is still on there - I always remove them from my cars so I can see an oil leak starting or any loose or damaged components on the underside. At the same time you would more than likely be able to access the washer pump from there as well. I recently fitted an aftermarket washer pump to a Mazda and it works fine (for less than £15).

Minor update, not Birmingham, actually in Cardiff, details details…..

If you can neaten this up a bit, make it square then measure the thickness of the bumper plastic and get the right edge trim from the link I'll stick in, or similar. I had similar with an old beloved Volvo xc70. I used my jig saw and hacksaw and got a straight edge but it needed a bit of trim and makes a huge difference tbh. Also I'd spray all that visible silver metalwork now exposed an ugly looking in a matt finish spray paint or brush, nothing to reflect light back so nobody will even spot it and many towbars and their mounts show rust which is annoying, might be worth giving the new fittings a quick paint over. ps If you paid for that you need to have words or at the very least leave a disparaging review with a pic because that's not a professional standard of work, looks like a work in progress TBH. Good luck. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rubber-Self-Adhesive-Protector-Material-Channel/dp/B0BK83RSZH/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?sr=8-2-spons&aref=BXCCCyRAoG&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY

Check out this address, it may help, Exoracing Ltd https://exoracing.co.uk › blog › how-to-install-honda-detent-springs

Hello, My Dad died in August 2025. He had kept an old N600 in his garage for 40 years - always planning it to be his 'next project'! It is not in good condition, but I would say it's surprisingly good for 40 years! It hasn't run since approx 1985 - so it would require a complete rebuild. I'm not hoping for much - would just like it to be of some use to someone! At the very least, is there a market for spares etc? (ps: the photo is a bit sad - I have since cleared away all of the surrounding rubbish! As you can see, the engine and chassis are still 'in one piece'!)

re my last post. my 2001 honda civic coupe 1.7 vetec is up for sale. 1 previous owner ( family member). has passed 25 mot's. 63500 miles from new. history. auto,aircon,sunroof, leather interior,5 refurbed original alloys, cd/cassette players. all original equipment as from new. no rust,bodywork good. looking for £2000 to £2500. this becomes a modern classic. only 199 models in uk.

I hope you didn't pay full price for that awful job. You could make a blank and paint it with a complimentary colour. A local independent paint sprayer could give good advice.

Wishing everone a Great Christmas and 2026

Hi all, admins delete if inappropriate, either way thankyou for your help and advice. Up for grabs here: 1998 Honda Civic Aerodeck 1.8 Vti for sale | eBay

Thanks again for your advice

They used to sell CV gaiters that were split and you placed them over the CV joint and ran glue along the length to secure it along with the clips each end. They sort of worked but were a little bit rigid so would pull off the joint but at least they lasted long enough for an MOT test :-)

Still working on this, Distributor fitted so car running now. MOT was due Jan 2026 so put it through and failed. Had the Front Offside CV Gaiter replaced last MOT, this time Front Nearside needs doing. Also ABS and SBS lights are on. Going to cost a bit to continue and make this road worthy again.

Many thanks for the advice, the garage have sourced a new one so at least the car is still on the road. Is it alright to ask peeps what they think it might be worth if I were to attempt to sell it? Mum bought in new in 1998, 105k on the clock now and well looked after. Hope this is ok

That appears to be the earlier version with single oxygen sensor that only measures earlier Euro standards emissions. The later version which is on the car measure both pre and post catalytic converter oxygen levels to compare and adjust feeling to optimise and measure the efficiency of the cat.

Hi all, I have just inherited a 1981 Honda Civic Hondamatic 3dr in Shetland White with a blue interior. My grandad bought it new, grandmother took it on when he passed now left to me following her passing. Looking to get it back on the road properly following a video made by The Brake Show. Any help/advice/parts is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Sean

OK, so mine's done 113k, what's the highest on here?

It's has done well for 20 years so a hole about the size of a pin head is good going, so think my spot of glue will do the job for now.

Well it does seem you have to remove a far bit of trim to access the gator so I've used a small spot of glue to mend the very small hole and it looks OK. I do love my Honda but unlike my Ford Transit where you could get to things with ease. Honda's are so well made it's a task to do anything I'm happy to say!!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_CR-V

The same as when driving, tyre pressures increase on their own in hot weather. I don't know if the tyre pressure alarm points can be altered in the car to allow for the extra pressure in the tyres ( I'm not overly familiar with the Jazz as it's my wifes), but if not then you could physically lower the tyre pressures by a couple of lbs to stop the alarm showing. Don't forget to increase the pressures when the weather cools down. There should be enough leeway in the settings to allow for some variation in pressures.

Finally found the problem. It was my passenger’s rare ABS sensor, which had debris and was cleaned properly. All warning lights never came back.

I liked my Volvo's and Transit's but my first Honda a 2005 CRV is without question IMO the best car ever. The extras and finish is just the best

Smart looking motor... Honds think of every thing ever a map to show where you feet go 😁

Honda vehicles are widely regarded as reliable and dependable cars, known for their longevity and solid build quality. While not always the most exciting to drive, they are generally considered a safe and practical choice, especially for those prioritizing dependability and low maintenance. Here's a more detailed look at Honda's reputation: Reliability: Honda consistently ranks high in reliability surveys and has a strong reputation for producing vehicles that last a long time with minimal issues. What Car? reports that Honda's latest models and older models (like the 2012-2018 CR-V and 2012-2017 Civic) are highly rated for reliability. The brand experiences a low fault rate, with the main areas of concern being the 12-volt battery and non-engine electrics. Honda typically covers the cost of repairs in a large percentage of cases, and many cars are back on the road quickly. Honda's commitment to quality control in manufacturing contributes to its reliability. Engine Performance: Honda is known for its efficient and reliable engine technology, including their hybrid powertrains. The e:HEV powertrain in the CR-V, for example, is a testament to their focus on optimizing engine performance, fuel economy, and longevity. Considerations: While generally reliable, some specific models or years might have reported issues. Some older Honda models might have issues with the 1.5L engine or head gasket failure. In terms of driver assistance features, some basic trims might lack advanced safety systems like adaptive cruise control, lane-keeping assist, and automatic emergency braking. Overall: Honda cars generally offer a good balance of reliability, practicality, and fuel efficiency, making them a popular choice for many drivers. While they might not always be the most exciting or feature-rich vehicles on the market, their reputation for dependability and longevity is well-deserved.

Reading about other people's issues with vehicles, particularly EV's on the internet sites, many are giving advice on how to do this. Believe me it is not something you really want to do. For example, after six months of issues, the burden of proof shifts to you—you must prove that the fault was present at the time of purchase. Not all faults present themselves within this time frame and you will still be charged for usage, mileage and damage, however small this may be! depreciation, Etc. Etc. Best to try and sort out your complaints under the manufacturer's warranty. Keep a journal of all that crops up, dates, places, pictures of visual warnings displayed on the instrument panel, speed at the time, where it occurred, what other interventions did you do to try and clear or correct the fault, if possible, how long it lasted. It all becomes a nightmare. Not easy to do, best avoided.

Is everyone with a EN:Y1 aware there is a software update at your dealer to update the charging of the vehicle, not sure what it is for exactly but getting it done this Friday. Possibly to cure faults arising following fast charge...

Hi there, I'm selling my much loved DC5, it's absolutely stunning and if you're in the market for a DC5 I strongly expect this is one of the very best out there. I really want the car to go to another enthusiast, someone who will look after it as well as myself. https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/18463363 Thanks for looking.

Just for info, purchased a steel wheel and tyre from The Wheelshop in same size as OEM. It fits into the spare wheel well fine, but only just height wise.

My 2021 CR-V went into Brayley’s Honda, Ewell on 17 December 2024 and they identified the problem as the Brake Pedal Simulator. The part was ordered on 18 December, none were available in the UK so the part was put on ‘back order’ and finally arrived from Japan on 14 March. With the repair completed, I got the car back on 19 March 2025 after 92-days! Have to say that Brayley’s, who thought I qualified for a complementary hire car were pretty good but Honda UK were awful. They said that I was not entitled to a hire car as my vehicle was out of warranty even though the repair was being fixed as a ‘warranty’ repair and Honda were picking up the full cost of the part and labour. Brayley’s loaned me a vehicle for 4-days so that I could visit my 99-year-old father on his birthday but I had to pay £30 to cover insurance. The MOT was due while the vehicle was in the garage and Brayley’s picked up the cost as a good will gesture – well done Brayley’s. One of the reasons I purchased a Honda in the first place was due to their reliability…..As I left the service area/showroom one of the sales people ask me if I wanted to discuss burying a new Honda – what do you think I said?

Me and the missus have owned this car for 15 years, we bought it with 14000 miles on in 2010 and it was my pride and joy. We are moving to Devon in the next few weeks and unfortunately we have to let it go as its not really suitable for the local roads down there. This has been my wifes daily driver for the most part as I have a company car. Its done 97000 miles and been serviced every 10k (some main dealer when it was newer). Its had the transmission fluid changed and Ive recently spruced it up with replacement bumpers and headlight restoration. It has had some paint but in general its a really tidy example with none of the usual water ingress that seems to be common. Air con works but needs re-gassing. Absolutley bomb proof this car. If there are no takers on here its getting traded in for the wifes new car. Sensible offers please. Photos to follow. A chance to own a genuine low mileage 2 owner car thats been looked after and cared for. Its not been hammered or driven hard. I even put the original Bridgestone Potenza tyres on it until they stopped making them. Message me if youre interested. Cheers

Just purchased 1999 HRV in immaculate condition with only 28,000 verified miles. Only issue is when initially pulling off the car shudders/vibrates occasionally but only for a few seconds then drives perfectly. I've heard comment of transmission fluid and filter? Is that possible?

BTW I eventually realised that the mystery symbol instructs the driver to press on the brake pedal before turning on the ignition and starter. So it is nothing to do with the problem.But I would still welcome comments on my non-starting problem.

I would start by checking the gearbox oil and see if there is enough in there and maybe consider replacing the oil? Another way to avoid the crunching is the using the old method known as double declutching. Or even a slight blip on the throttle on downshifting can also work to eliminate the gear crunching

I have had recalls sorted free of charge at my local honda dealer and they normally check the car over to make sure everything works as it should.

I would say when accelerating very lightly but only at the lower speeds of between 20 to 30mph, seems better once warmed up, looking at the service history the differential oil was done 3 years ago but cant see any history of a ATF fluid change so may just book that in, will also ask them if they have any software updates for the transmission.

Hi Trev...Thanks for the reply....I'm just about to go to the garage...unfortunately there were no codes to be read which seems quite strange....I've just taken the car around the block this morning and it was fine, so I'm thinking it's to do with transmission once the oil has warmed up,...the engine it's self whilst out of gear sounds fine, so that's points to transmission too, but of course I guess there are lots of other potential candidates which I wouldn't have a clue about,filters,sensors, Cats and so on...again many thanks...John

Hi thanks for your comment. My car is a2022 jazz hybrid. 2yrs 10 months old, with 17000 miles. I wouldn't expect the battery to go flat after using the car locally al l week. I'm taking it to honda to have the electrics checked over...

Timing belt breaking? More than likely a tensioner or guide pulley out of alignment (usually some grit on the fitting side of the tensioner and the belt walks off)

After numerous garages failed to sort the problem I took it to a man I found on Facebook, it turned out it was a computer problem. I think he rebooted the system and cleared the fault and I haven’t had any problem since. If you live near the Sheffield area I can give you his name. I was also advised not to use cruise control anymore as this adds to the problem.