KevAmiga

Which model / year / variant? Would help if you posted a photo, there's loads of different head units out there.

Hello and welcome 🙂

Thanks Geoff, its a good shout. Next time im in the garage ill pull the wheels off and chuck them on the balancing machine.

No problem, wishing you the best luck (which is master cylinder!!)

If i had to make an educated guess, you need either a slave cylinder, a clutch kit or both.

Oh, one thing I would try if it was mine (excercise caution here!!!!) if you put it in first with the engine OFF then hold foot on the clutch, start the car. Does it go forward? Obviously get ready to turn it off / slam brakes on / stall it, whatever, but that would really point towards a clutch issue. Although to be honest I dont think you need to do this bit...

Is it petrol or Diesel? Im not really clued up with your car, but a clutch generally comes as a kit. Clutch, pressure plate and cylinder is the general kit. If its DMF, then that might be the deal braker. Again, I dont know the car so, not sure. Petrol engines generally dont have DMF, especially of that age. Id ignore the grinding in second if you cant engage any gears when the engine is running, then the clutch is 100% the first place to start looking. Hopefully its the master cylinder... that way its the easiest fix of the clutch system. Has it lost fluid? Any wet patches under the car when its parked?

I think what you have said here "Some issues occasionally with clutch pedal - would press down and it wouldn't engage clutch so would have to come back up and press down again" is your clue. Sounds to me like either your Master, Slave or concentric bearing was failing, and has now gone altogether (I assume you have a Hydraulic clutch) ?

So the saga continues, have had problems since day 1 with wobble from my CR-V. 2007, MK2, 2.0 Petrol, Manual. When i got it, at 50 mph the side to side wobble in the car was pretty bad. Had the wheels balanced - no change Changed the drivers side drive shaft - seemed to fix the problem, except a slight wobble at 20mph. Drove to france towing a caravan, something let go bad, the wobble got super bad. Ordered a 2nd hand drive shaft and intermediate shaft from eBay - wobble mostly gone, except at 55mph again it would do it Ordered an Intermediate shaft from AUTODOC, went to fit it last night... total garbage. So, whilst in the garage I remembered, I had ordered a bearing for the intermediate shaft from Honda direct when I first got the car, so i took the Honda intermediate shaft I had from eBay, and pressed out the bearing, pressed in a new one. Also changed the outer shaft for the J&R shaft i got... and took her for a drive. 99% of the wobble has gone. Which is a step in the right direction. But what I have noticed, is the wobble is worse when the car is turning. Im thinking my next step now, is to do a diff fluid change, maybe the diff clutches are grabbing a little when the car's rear wheels are at differing speeds (ie, turning on the motorway). Anyone else got any thoughts?

Hi Terry 🙂

It depends. Anything is easy if you know how. Pads and disks are generally not difficult. The rears can be more troublesome if you need a windback tool, if its electric handbrake, internal handbrake, all sorts of factors (sorry I dont know your car) Kev

Hello and welcome 🙂

Hello and welcome 🙂

Hello and Welcome 🙂

Its likley to be the door switch. Basically, your car doesnt know the door has been opened so, re-locks the doors incase you accidently unlocked it in your pocket. My renault trafic did it, was a door switch. Id imagine its, as your picture, that.

As above, if its complaining about a disk error its highly unlikley to be the disk, its the alpine head unit thats fitted as stock, the DVD lens unit fails. I ripped mine out and fitted a new Sony head unit with apple car play... much better.

Mines 2007 and its chain. Got a photo of the engine? Im not sure if all the MK2's were chain with the K24A engine.

I changed mine for Denso ones, and also Intermotor ones. Ended up just putting the genuine ones back. My car didnt like the other ones, all sorts of engine management lights.

I get this... oddly after i replaced the rear shocks and springs with Monroe units! I think maybe the top mounts are tired and need changing, will find out soon.

Will check that out also. Im 99% sure its the shaft, it went really bad and i fitted a second hand one which fixed 90% of it, but I now have a new non genuine inner and outer shaft in the post.

Thanks Trevor! I had it locally, im only the 2nd owner, its just ticked over 100k on the clock. Was owned by an older couple and they were finding it a bit big and heavy to drive. I use it to tow my caravan, probably be better with a diesel but i love the reliability of the K20. Struggling to sort out a wobble (believed drive shaft, but we shall see!) Cheers! Kev

Hi, names Kev, had my CR-V for about a year now. Also have a CB600F 🙂 Love all things Japanese when it comes to engines, also have a Suzuki Vitara, and a few other bits, couple of Honda and Yamaha boat engines. Cheers!