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Purchased new in April 2003, just clocked 166,000 miles! I am one of a dwindling number of Stream owners I guess, used to see a few running around but very rare now. The most reliable car I have ever owned, although I guess my previous vehicles were not at all comparable! Started off learning to drive in a Ford Escort Mk3. Briefly took lessons in a Mini (original style) but soon back to the Escort. First car I owned was an Austin Allegro 1500HL. I know these have a bad reputation but the transverse OHC engine was a doddle to maintain and apart from squeaky hydro-gas suspension and a thirst for oil, it ran rather well actually. A big boot on it but a letterbox opening to it! All I could manage on a meagre salary. Built in 1979, it was six years old when I bought it, and it lasted three years until it got written off in an accident. Next car was not a stunner either. Morris Ital (a restyled Marina) from 1981, it was seven years old when I bought it as the third owner. A bit of a dinosaur of a car with niggling issues although it ran ok. Was not comfortable at speed though and a bit of a bus! Had that car for four years before I sold it to a Marina enthusiast and I believe it was scrapped a year or two later. I then bought a one year old Rover 214SLi which has 20,000 miles on it and owner by Rover Fleet Management. A nice car, ran well but the K series engine had its usual head gasket problems. It did open my eyes to Honda though, as I saw the Concerto version as a superior version of the same car. Head gasket replaced at 65,000 miles and I had the car until I bought the Stream in 2003, and then my wife had it for three more years until the head gasket went again at 125,000 miles and we scrapped it and my wife bought a three-year old Honda Jazz with just 14,000 miles on it and one previous owner in 2006. Now, the Jazz is still running, but has gone through a couple of exhausts but nothing else wrong with it. A nice little runner and ULEZ compliant so living just outside Greater London it has survived the Sadiq Khan Cull. But the Stream has soldiered on and has been driven all over the country, up to Scotland a few times, down to Devon and Cornwall many more times, all over East Anglia, the Midlands and South West. Its been in Wales too! It still has the original stainless steel exhaust I asked for as an optional extra when I bought the car. Faults are few but the Stream has served me well. The are only two times I needed to call out the AA was once when I was running the air-conditioning whilst working on my laptop in the car at a car park and was not running the engine (it was a very hot day) and I drained the battery, and the other time was when I foolishly rushed through a flood of water and filled a cylinder with water! When the AA came to my aid he towed me out and helpfully removed the drenched air filter and the spark plugs. I was then told to turn the engine and it was rather odd seeing water being ejected from the plugs like fountains! Once he got it running again he joked that I had a Honda Steam as the exhaust was chugging out the condensate. A rough ride home with the check engine light on, but a new air filter and a short run to check all was ok and it was. I have the K20A1 1998cc engine which is a really good performer, but i was having a spot of bother with the check engine light coming on now and again. Using my Autolec D519 ODM I was able to find out that I had a misfire on one cylinder, so I changed the plugs and caps and that cleared that up, but then I was getting a knock sensor fault with an occasional additional catalytic convertor performance warning. I had been using 95 RON petrol as regular fuel in this car, with 97 RON sometimes when doing the hills on holiday trips. However, this fault emerged after a year of using the newer E10 95 RON blended fuel and I suspected that there was some rough running due to the lower grade of fuel. After using a few doses of Redex to clean the fuel system and the injectors, and using E5 fuel instead, good performance was restored and no further warnings came up. Went through the MOT no worries and, like the Jazz, although both are considerably older than many of the cars that are now banned from London unless the ULEZ charge is paid, these cars remain compliant because Honda had the wisdom to achieve better performance well in advance of the new regulations. I knew this when I bought the car but back in 2003, when ULEZ was not on the horizon. I am convinced that, so long as the bodywork holds up, the engine will pass 200,000 comfortably and if I still have the car in April 2028 it will be a veteran of 25 years with one careful, very satisfied, owner. I have seen comments on YouTube that if you have a car with a K20 engine you should never sell it because it will just go on, and on, and on. It's true! I certainly will consider Honda for my next car, and quite like the CR-V and the Civic models, but I am impressed with the Jazz and its Crossstar variant too, which my wife and I took out on a test drive a few months back. I know combustion engines are under threat, but if I do change I think I am likely to choose a plug-in hybrid as that will mean I can drive electric for most short journeys and not be range restricted for the longer drives across the UK and parts of Europe.

So are the dealers, they confused too. As stated...

Hi everyone i have finally joined a motorcycle club even though i have been riding since i was 16 i am now 60 i currently own a Honda cb400f 1976 and before that i have owned a couple of HONDA CB550 but i am having some running issues at the moment with the 400 will not idle off the choke i have stripped and cleaned carbs checked and adjusted the tappets and it has electronic ignition it runs like crap i am thinking it needs top end freshen up any thoughts if anyone lives in Didcot oxon and knows their way around the old Hondas their help would be welcome

Hi, this question relates to a 2003 Honda CRV Initial apologies as this question, in various forms has appeared before but I have tried all the solutions suggested. Occasionally I have had to change the battery and once reconnected I have all sorts of issues with the alarm going off. Normally I have found that messing with various things like using and holding the key in the door lock causes the frequency of the alarm going off to decrease till once the intervals exceed 2 min, then the alarm stop completely. Currently, after replacing the battery, the alarm only goes off if I lock the door (using either the key or the fob). Leave it unlocked and it’s fine. Three questions, is there a way to reset the alarm, and secondly, if all else fails is there a fuse i can pull and finally the nuclear option, is the horn the same as the warning horn, if not what wires can I cut. All responses appreciated

Hi there, I'm selling my much loved DC5, it's absolutely stunning and if you're in the market for a DC5 I strongly expect this is one of the very best out there. I really want the car to go to another enthusiast, someone who will look after it as well as myself. https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/18463363 Thanks for looking.

Just for info, purchased a steel wheel and tyre from The Wheelshop in same size as OEM. It fits into the spare wheel well fine, but only just height wise.

Hi Philip My experience has been "HONDA THE POWER OF NIGHMARES" I bought my new e:NY1 on 30th September 2024 from Virtu Honda Stockton all excited with my new electric car. I was expecting not 256 as advertised but 200 miles range, as discussed with the salesman, which I would have been happy with. The first charge at 100% range was 148 miles 2nd charge 156 miles, to ensure the range was correct I had to drive with no heater no radio and at around 60 miles an hour in eco mode to get the 156 miles. I took it back and was told it would improve with use. As I am sure you will have guessed, it never improved. I asked Virtu Honda Stockton to test it and dropped it off 31st December 2024. I will not go into the details but on the 8th April 2025 they informed me that the car was ready to pick up, yes four months later. I advised them I wanted a new car as they had had the car longer than I had. I don't know what they have done to the car over the four months, they will not tell me. Virtu Honda Stockton admit they have had the car for an unreasonable timescale, and that they feel I should be given a replacement new car, but Honda UK say that I should pick up the car as four months is a reasonable timescale. I have refused to pick up the car until I get a full report on the work carried out and will then be going to the Motor Ombudsman service. Virtu Honda Stockton have at least tried to help, but Honda UK have been horrendous. I would recommend if you want to try an electric car keep away from Honda at all costs.

Update to above, does the car charge when "Away" from home ok?

Hi.....welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!

Thank you again, so much, for your help. I will contact them and hopefully get this part replaced for my mum. ironically, she is now thinking of selling her car and buying something smaller, so I will get this part replaced and then market it…. It’s far too good not to keep it going. Thank you again for your help, it really has been much appreciated. best regards Tina

The cases are just that and tend to fit quite well - it refreshes the external look of the fobs and usually has new rubber button inserts. Check the remote microswitches inside are secure on the circuit board as sometimes they detach and require soldering

Its refreshing to hear good news about car dealerships as you don't often read too many positive reviews about them. Thanks for sharing with the club and glad it was all resolved at nominal cost to yourself

Me and the missus have owned this car for 15 years, we bought it with 14000 miles on in 2010 and it was my pride and joy. We are moving to Devon in the next few weeks and unfortunately we have to let it go as its not really suitable for the local roads down there. This has been my wifes daily driver for the most part as I have a company car. Its done 97000 miles and been serviced every 10k (some main dealer when it was newer). Its had the transmission fluid changed and Ive recently spruced it up with replacement bumpers and headlight restoration. It has had some paint but in general its a really tidy example with none of the usual water ingress that seems to be common. Air con works but needs re-gassing. Absolutley bomb proof this car. If there are no takers on here its getting traded in for the wifes new car. Sensible offers please. Photos to follow. A chance to own a genuine low mileage 2 owner car thats been looked after and cared for. Its not been hammered or driven hard. I even put the original Bridgestone Potenza tyres on it until they stopped making them. Message me if youre interested. Cheers

Hi all, Trying to find an aftermarket radio fascia for FRV but somehow I cant find anything, for a single DIN radio. What are you guys using please?

Could the ECON mode or other settings be influencing this behavior?

I have just brought NGK - Spark Plug - IZFR6K-11S what torque setting do i use on these?

Bit of an update just got back from mr clutch there was air in the system from when the other garage changed the master and slave cylinders, they also said clutch was not worn like we got told wont be using them again happy with mr clutch drives good now shakes abit at idle think it could be spark plugs will have to look into those

Good afternoon, I have a Honda Jazz 1.3, 2019 model. It's a lovely car, my 4th Jazz! Recently, the car has developed an issue with the steering, usually when the car is cold, such as first drive of the day. When I apply lock, there is a loud clunk which can be felt through the steering wheel. The more lock I apply, the worse it gets. Driving in a straight line, or with little lock, there is no problem. This issue seems to go away when the vehicle is warm. Naturally, I'm concerned as I feel this could be a serious issue. At first, I thought I'd run over a large stone or something, or uneven ground, that's how it feels. The clunk occurs in forward and reverse gears. Has anybody else had this issue and what was the remedy? Thanking you in anticipation, Des Roberts.

have you tried ebay? https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=39680-TLO-GO1YB&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p4582968.m570.l1313

You can try on eBay (discount code at the top of the page) and still find Honda genuine fluids on there. I would definitely stick to genuine fluids if possible

If the symbol disappears once you have the brake pedal depressed then no problem but if still illuminated then could be a faulty pedal switch - try pressing harder on the brake pedal as well

Hi....welcome to the club Once Honda is in your blood you'll always come back to one.

Hi, I have recently bought a 1994 Honda Accord Aerodeck cb9, is there anyone breaking one of these? Need the control unit under the front passenger seat. TIA, Majid.

Thanks. Will give the differential fluid a go and if clutch maybe time will tell.

Members Very sad to have to let my CRV go. Petrol, auto, 2002 183,000 miles £250, been in the family from new..The cat was cut out/stolen while parked. Most times she passed her MOT first time and very sad to see her go. No MOT and not taxed. She would need to be towed or put on a trailer. Location Sutton Coldfield, West Midlands.