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Hi all again. I have this annoying shudder when starting off from stopped. It only lasts a second, then is gone, until your taking off from being stopped again. The car runs perfectly at all speeds in every other way. If it were a manual car, my first guess would be to think it would be the clutch, or as its a 4 X 4 prop bearings. May be significant, but it only does this after it has been running at least a few minutes, perfect when stone cold, no shudder/judder. I am going to try and discount the gearbox, by having a fluid and filter change. If that has muck in it from 86000 miles of use, (no evidence the fluid has ever been changed) that might mess around with the oil pressure and influence the take off. I will report here again once that has been done. Is there any way I can electrically disable the 4 x 4 for testing to see if its that, which is making the shudder? If anyone has had the same type of problem, please let me know what happened, and how you fixed it. Also if you have any ideas please let me know. Anyway, thanks for reading this, and any help would be greatly appreciated. Eddie

That's great to hear, thanks for letting us know.

Thanks for your reply Trevor, in the end I just winged it. I chose two vacant fuse holders after looking at the layout and it worked. Switches on /off with the ignition so I'm happy. Luck of the Irish I suppose.

Sorry can't remember which fuse I tapped into but had to use a multimeter to find a suitable feed that was ignition switched or permanent (depending on what route you want to go)

Have you tried a new (quality) battery as if the old one needs charging periodically it may have faulty cells and this can cause the issues you are describing (if the battery cannot deliver a high enough voltage on start up then this will flag the lights)

Have you tried a fluid and filter change which may revive the transmissions performance?

If you decide to sell it then you are welcome to advertise it in the Cars For Sale section of the forums https://uk.hondaownersclub.com/forums/forum/58-hondas-for-sale/

Can you not get them reconditioned.....I'm sure there are still some companies that can do this service

Sounds like the ignition system is being powered to the accessory setting on the key, I would check any relays and see if they click when they should and substitute like for like to see if it makes any difference to the clock display being permanently on

Sometimes it can be a tough one to diagnose. The best way would be to attach a multimeter to the battery and then systematically remove fuses until the current drops then you'll know where the faulty circuit is located

Which engine does it have?

Does the battery need coding into the vehicle - e.g. vehicle may have to recognise new battery voltage otherwise will still be reading the old voltage If in doubt, worth checking to see if it has this function

Hi, I wondered if any advice on where I can find a silver front bumper for the first gen CRV reg 2001. Someone crashed into me and I cannot get a new part discontinued, or find and old one on ebay. Suggestions most welcome..Thank you

My dad is looking to sell his much loved Honda Civic Aerodeck V Tech X reg, 55000 miles. New clutch and tyres. Would anyone be interested?

can anyone help me find the radio code. details in pic.

Hi All, my fob has died. I have changed the battery (checked it in my other fob it works fine) i can get a fob online or from a breakers yard ( i am not going to pay the £600 the dealer wants) but it will need to be paired to my car. Can i do this myself or not? You tube has been unhelpful!

Hi All, My fob has died (2020 CRV) i have replaced the battery, checked the battery in my other fob (it works) i have come to the assumption the fob is knackered. A new fob from the dealer is £600!!!! the key can be swapped into amother fob but the fob i assume will need to be programmed or paired to the car. Can this be done by myself or do i have to pay a dealer to do it? Thanks all

I have a honda civic 2014 and recently warning lights have started coming on while driving First the car wouldn't start so I changed the battery which rectified the problem however after driving around 10 miles the warning lights reappeared Alternator is good this is charging the battery, all fuses good also, so not sure what this could be Any ideas would be much appreciated

I own a 10th gen Civic 2021 on 43,000 miles with 17” unmarked Alloy Wheels and 4 very good Michelin Cross Climate 2 tyres. We ( the wife and I ) have just retired and will now be covering lots of miles and in a perfect world I do wish my wheels were 16” just for the little extra comfort. If any of you know where I could locate a set of 16” in lovely condition please get in touch. I have tried a well known auction site a few times recently but the wheels I find always appear rough. I look forward to hearing from someone at some point. kindest regards, Pete.

Thanks for the reply,but sorted now

Can only find two listed - Fuse 3 (20 amp) in dashboard fusebox

Hi Eban Only the rear caliper pistons should need winding back - the fronts will just push straight back in. Usually best to release the bleed nipple when retracting the pistons and topping up afterwards. Makes it easier to push in and also removes the fluid that has sat in the caliper which is required to refresh the old fluid every so often. In addition, it does not send fluid back through the system in reverse which can sometimes (but now quite rarely) flip the master cylinder seals and also cause damage to the ABS hydraulic system. The clunking sounds like a worn CV joint which is causing the noise.

Thats £82.50 per tyre and very good for Avon.....great tyres! Have just fitted Avons to my motorbike and shame they have only just now stopped making them in the UK 😞

HaHa.....that is absolutely brilliant and must have been fun to make 🙂