Hi Sensescaper, you do not need to take the bumper off, you need to turn the wheels fully to the left or the right depending on what side your changing, remove the inner wheel arch lining and reach in through there.
I agree it's not easy and you need fairly long arms but that's the way in. if you have the manual it tells you how to do it in there.
I used to do 30K a year in my 2010 Accord Tourer and would have to change the bulbs at least once a year, so worth buying the expensive bulbs rather than the cheap ones.
Got 257K out of mine, before chopping it in, a great car. Everything still worked and was still getting 48 mpg on my commute, same clutch same exhaust.