Trevor

What a great video Alan....not seen that one before

I agree, Citroen have produced some excellent cars over the years and have always innovated with new technology. The foot 'handbrake' was really brought over from America and also Mercedes have used it for many decades now. It serves primarily as an Emergency brake (2nd/3rd line braking system) which should bring the car to a halt if needed. Being as most of the cars that employ this type of brake have automatic transmission so it serves to hold or stop the car if needed.

Did you get it sorted? Unlikley to be the dash light dimmer wound down to low?

I always park my cars in gear (2nd usually - as if started in gear will mostly just stall) but also always start with my foot on the clutch pedal. Reason being, handbrakes do fail and to stop the car from rolling away. Many years ago, Citroen very cleverly used the handbrake on the front brakes in the Xantia. Which was fine until the brakes cooled down (obviously getting hotter on the front) and then the tolerances changed when cold and the car rolled away....rediculous idea and not thought about at design stage. I still hear about cars with electric handbrake rolling away albeit slower than complete failure as there is some drag on the rear discs.

Try WikiOBD in a google search and the site will show you where it is located

Generally the EGR is fine if cleaned out and driven through a high rev range. The 2.2 CRV is superb engine and actually benefits to run at higher revs Mine actually gave a better MPG when driven hard on motorways (70 to 80mph in 6th gear - higher speeds in Europe) Never had any issue with DPF, EGR or Turbo Vanes being gummed up....the high revs generates enough pressure to blow out the carbon

Some vehicles have a speed limiter which is good for operation up to 20mph and just means you can't go over that speed.....of course you have to remember to switch it off when you get to a motorway 🙂

I think the first thing to establish is whether the joint separates from the suspension arm to then be able to source the joint separately and press into the original arm? You may stand more of a chance sourcing just the joint rather than the whole assembly Can you post up a photo of the joint in the arm

HI Keith Just to let you know this is a Honda car forum. For motorcycles you need this club. https://www.hoc.org.uk/ Shame as would love to chat bikes, as I own a Honda Africa Twin but you will get more responses on the other club forums Good luck with your project, looks like you have a good one to start with

Hi....welcome to the Club Well you certainly don't see too many of these beauties on the road nowadays Looks superb condition Good to have you onboard!

Interesting article posted up by Adrian Flux Insurance highlighting a new scam regarding wing mirror damage....certainly worth a read https://www.adrianflux.co.uk/blog/2023/04/crash-for-cash-scam/?utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=social+&utm_campaign=af-guidesandtips-content

It sounds like you are referring to the cartridge element that attaches within the air intake housing? If it is the same dimensionally then they all mostly work at 5 volts and should do the job

Hi norm ...welcome to the Club Certainly like your Honda's then Good to have you onboard!

I do feel that even the mobile phone-based SatNav apps don't appear to be that accurate when it comes down to closed roads, ULEZ zones and so many other bits of important information. I have four different ones I used on my phone when out on the motorbike and they all give different information. I think the current 'best one' I am using is TomTom which you can download onto your phone so no worry about signal outages. I do think Google has lost out on accuracy but does show more info on traffic alerts

I would not say that there is 'an acceptable limit' of clutch judder. Generally, a clutch should not judder in normal use. Many years ago, a clutch was of heavier construction and also had torsion springs built into the driven plate to take up lateral movement on the clutch plate when the torque was being introduced through the clutch mechanism and the springs allowed for a smooth take-up. Nowadays, the springs are deleted so the driven plate is solid and the torsional forces are taken up through the dual mass flywheel. This is where the wear can take place (usually from short-shifting by a previous owner) and can lead to a judder. This will only get worse over time so I would at least insist they change the DMF and clutch at the same time before you reject the car.

Software update to the vehicle I believe may sort this issue Chat to your local dealership to confirm

I would pop by your local Halfords and get them to identify which ones you need and they can even change them for you at a small cost. I recently went in for a rear wiper blade and took ages for me to correctly identify which one I actually needed but their staff are pretty good at picking the right ones

Did you go for the Honda in the end? If so, how have you found it so far?

Looks a decent car with a few bolt on accessories

Hi Troy Tempest (great username by the way) Welcome to the wonderful world of Honda !

The vehicle may need a software update which may cure it.....chat to your local dealership about this

Ouch, expensive but good end result though

🙂 quality comedy from an era where (hopefully) not too many people were too offended by it

Its a 20mph limit through Wales now apparently?