Trevor

Hi Mark....welcome to the Forum Its an odd one that! Worth rechecking the drivebelt for any lumps bumps or imperfections as had this once many years ago. Alternatively, the crankshaft pulleys are known to break up and can be seen to be out of alignment when rotating. Otherwise the only other thing I can think of is a fault in the power steering rack/pump (sensing valve) and this would necessitate replacement Let us know how you get on with it as would love to know what the cause is

Welcome to the Forum Good luck with the project

Struggling to find one when searching and all I could come up with was this search https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=2010+honda+civic+gear+knob+6+gear&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=2010+honda+civic+gear+knob+6+speed I suppose there are other generic designs that don't look too bad

Hi Davel....welcome to the Forum Sorry, not got any personal knowledge on the later SatNav systems. Hopefully someone will be along shortly to offer assistance Good to have you onboard

Hi .... welcome to the Forum With due respect to your mechanic, it can be very difficult to diagnose dynamic imbalances as they are occurring whilst moving at speed. The way I would approach it is to take each individual component one at a time, starting with the wheel balance (on all four wheels but start at the front first). If these are out of balance then this can cause a shudder. Easy enough job for a tyre bay. Also get them to check the tyres are not damaged, e.g. when they spin the wheels that they tyres are not out of shape. Next I would turn my attention to the front driveshafts ensuring that these are not damaged and even applying a jubilee clip to each one individually and turning it around the shaft incrementally to see if this adds a balance or makes it worse. After that I would change the rear diff oil as this can cause a shudder but only usually at very low speeds on turning full lock. Let us know how you get on with the above

Hi Kenb....welcome to the Forum I think this is the relay and is available on eBay for around £4. When fitted the engine management usually displays a lamp and the A/C system goes offline which needs a scan tool to reset.

What parts are you looking for?

That's the reason I haven't tackled the XTrail chain yet, mammoth job and can't be bothered but as soon as it starts even sounding like it could be rattling then I'm onto it. Pretty much as you have listed but semi-accessible which is something I suppose

Hi Wayne...welcome to the Forum Good luck with your search and hope you find the bits you want

Hi....welcome to the Forum The 1.7 engine uses a MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor to calculate the air flow and engine load and determine the correct amount of fuel to inject https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=2001+honda+stream+1.7+MAP+sensor&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=2001+honda+stream+1.7+MAF+sensor Above is a selection if you need to buy one but also identifies what to look for in the engine bay. Check that the vacuum hose going to it is intact and in good condition with no leaks. Let us know how you get on with it all

Hi....welcome to the Forum The radio code has been lost due to a flat or disconnected battery supply. You will need to follow the instructions in the audio handbook section and insert the four digit pin code which should be written on a card or in the service book. This will then power up the audio system

I would imagine it is the wiper arm (not the blade) that is at fault as this part provides downwards pressure against the screen. Maybe worth trying a new one of these, probably dealer only though

Hi Sarah....welcome to the Forum Oh dear, it seems Honda haven't resolved this issue as its been like this for many years now. I have had to transfer complete phone books over manually in the past as the onboard technology is not that up to date (and that's putting it midly). Seems okay when the numbers are in there and calls can be made quite easily though

Hi Derek....welcome to the Forum I would imagine the engine is indirect injection with the injectors in the inlet manifold. Unfortunately, the 1.3 is the only option currently and is slightly underpowered but sufficient for around town but a struggle on long runs. Look forward to your posts in the future and feel free to jump into any that wish to contribute to. Good to have you onboard.

Its unusual for the chain to rattle but its still a wise thing to do as many a modern engine with chains seem to fail and then its game over. I have an XTrail which I need to replace the chains as although its not rattling at the moment I'm sure it won't be long before it does and then maybe too late

Hi...welcome to the forum The Accord CDTi is a superb machine with awesome MPG and power delivery from the engine. Had to replace the Dual Mass Flywheel and Clutch on wife's Accord as she was putting on huge chunks of throttle in high gears so that the turbo was boosting and ripping up the flywheel. I then told her to use lower gears and stay off the turbo, made a huge difference to her driving style (and much smoother journey) and cost me less in replacement parts Good to have you onboard

This is a common issue and as Kenny says, its a simple DIY job as long as you have room to get under the car. Simply buy the correct fluid https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-HONDA-CRV-DPS-FLUID-DIFF-OIL-1-LITRE/392495346713?epid=1415923714&hash=item5b628bb419:g:t-sAAOSwSONcM4GV Drain the old fluid and refill with new fluid give it few days of turning full lock and this should resolve the issue. Also, check that the noise is not coming from the front after you've changed the fluid as it could also have worn CV joints

I agree with Charlie on the ABS sensors and also worth getting the ECU scanned for fault codes as this could be quite dangerous if happens on a Motorway

You're absolutely right. Some countries teach vehicle maintenance as part of the curriculum and also include it as part of the driving test. Unfortunately it is too easy to rely on a warning lamp and state that you don't have any knowledge and that exempts you from driving with no oil or bald tyres 😞

An absolute classic track if ever there was one!

Lol...I suppose being a Renault owner then you would be used to running repairs 🙂 Sounds like it was standard maintenance and electrical work then, not too bad and should last you for years now

that sounds incredibly frustrating and like you, I would be more determined to fix it or the alternative is to hurl it as hard as I can throw, cursing it and living with the empty space 🙂

It should be on the same fuse as the other brake lights. Have you tried banging it gently to see if there is a break in the circuit, poor connection, etc. If so and still not working then i believe you need to remove the internal trim from the tailgate to remove the unit

You can connect the charger whilst the battery terminals ares still connected to the battery. Just ensure that you disconnect and reconnect (negative last on and first off) the charger switched off first otherwise this can create a spark and ignite the Hydrogen gases that build up around the battery when charging. Also ensure that the area is well ventilated to avoid gas build up

You're absolutely right Charlie but if you consider that just 20-30 years ago, loads of people maintained their cars, from anything like a small service to inflating the tyres. I don't see much evidence of any maintenance being carried out on the cars that I service that come in with partially flat tyres, low fluid levels and general lack of respect for the vehicle 😞