Trevor

Hi....welcome to the Forum The 1.7 engine uses a MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor to calculate the air flow and engine load and determine the correct amount of fuel to inject https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=2001+honda+stream+1.7+MAP+sensor&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=2001+honda+stream+1.7+MAF+sensor Above is a selection if you need to buy one but also identifies what to look for in the engine bay. Check that the vacuum hose going to it is intact and in good condition with no leaks. Let us know how you get on with it all

Hi....welcome to the Forum The radio code has been lost due to a flat or disconnected battery supply. You will need to follow the instructions in the audio handbook section and insert the four digit pin code which should be written on a card or in the service book. This will then power up the audio system

I would imagine it is the wiper arm (not the blade) that is at fault as this part provides downwards pressure against the screen. Maybe worth trying a new one of these, probably dealer only though

Hi Sarah....welcome to the Forum Oh dear, it seems Honda haven't resolved this issue as its been like this for many years now. I have had to transfer complete phone books over manually in the past as the onboard technology is not that up to date (and that's putting it midly). Seems okay when the numbers are in there and calls can be made quite easily though

Hi Derek....welcome to the Forum I would imagine the engine is indirect injection with the injectors in the inlet manifold. Unfortunately, the 1.3 is the only option currently and is slightly underpowered but sufficient for around town but a struggle on long runs. Look forward to your posts in the future and feel free to jump into any that wish to contribute to. Good to have you onboard.

Its unusual for the chain to rattle but its still a wise thing to do as many a modern engine with chains seem to fail and then its game over. I have an XTrail which I need to replace the chains as although its not rattling at the moment I'm sure it won't be long before it does and then maybe too late

Hi...welcome to the forum The Accord CDTi is a superb machine with awesome MPG and power delivery from the engine. Had to replace the Dual Mass Flywheel and Clutch on wife's Accord as she was putting on huge chunks of throttle in high gears so that the turbo was boosting and ripping up the flywheel. I then told her to use lower gears and stay off the turbo, made a huge difference to her driving style (and much smoother journey) and cost me less in replacement parts Good to have you onboard

This is a common issue and as Kenny says, its a simple DIY job as long as you have room to get under the car. Simply buy the correct fluid https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-HONDA-CRV-DPS-FLUID-DIFF-OIL-1-LITRE/392495346713?epid=1415923714&hash=item5b628bb419:g:t-sAAOSwSONcM4GV Drain the old fluid and refill with new fluid give it few days of turning full lock and this should resolve the issue. Also, check that the noise is not coming from the front after you've changed the fluid as it could also have worn CV joints

I agree with Charlie on the ABS sensors and also worth getting the ECU scanned for fault codes as this could be quite dangerous if happens on a Motorway

You're absolutely right. Some countries teach vehicle maintenance as part of the curriculum and also include it as part of the driving test. Unfortunately it is too easy to rely on a warning lamp and state that you don't have any knowledge and that exempts you from driving with no oil or bald tyres 😞

An absolute classic track if ever there was one!

Lol...I suppose being a Renault owner then you would be used to running repairs 🙂 Sounds like it was standard maintenance and electrical work then, not too bad and should last you for years now

that sounds incredibly frustrating and like you, I would be more determined to fix it or the alternative is to hurl it as hard as I can throw, cursing it and living with the empty space 🙂

It should be on the same fuse as the other brake lights. Have you tried banging it gently to see if there is a break in the circuit, poor connection, etc. If so and still not working then i believe you need to remove the internal trim from the tailgate to remove the unit

You can connect the charger whilst the battery terminals ares still connected to the battery. Just ensure that you disconnect and reconnect (negative last on and first off) the charger switched off first otherwise this can create a spark and ignite the Hydrogen gases that build up around the battery when charging. Also ensure that the area is well ventilated to avoid gas build up

You're absolutely right Charlie but if you consider that just 20-30 years ago, loads of people maintained their cars, from anything like a small service to inflating the tyres. I don't see much evidence of any maintenance being carried out on the cars that I service that come in with partially flat tyres, low fluid levels and general lack of respect for the vehicle 😞

Hi Charlie...welcome to the forum We had an Accord 2.2 cdti a few years ago, was hugely economical for quite a large car, makes you wonder whether its worth getting a small car for economy really 🙂 What repairs did you have to carry out to put it back on the road? Good to have you onboard

Sorry to hear about your wife's relatives and friends succumbing to the virus....its a difficult time all round really 😞 Bridgestones would be my personal choice if they weren't a huge amount more than the Nexans, which are also a good tyre as well

I'm not sure it relates so much to 2wd / 4wd as it is calculated by CO2 emissions which in turn could be higher due to the transmission but not so much with the CR-V as is it passive system and only functions when needed (Crossover) so not much to affect the fuel consumption / CO2 levels. If the transmission is automatic compared to manual then this may also have an effect on the levels

Its unusual on a Honda, although very common on Vauxhalls as well as quite a few other brands

Hi Andy.....hope you are staying well? I would not compromise on tyres, definitely not cheap budgets as usually from China an lethal in the wet (and the dry also)....very bad experiences with these in the past. Stick to Dunlops if you can otherwise, Michelin, Goodyear, Avon, Continental or Bridgestone are other good makes. May be worth checking the wheel alignment as the rear alignment can usually be out slightly and affect wear on the front tyres. The rear suspension is adjustable so ensure that anyone carrying out alignment adjusts the rear first, will make a difference to the handling also as tend to pull to camber on the left if unadusted. Take care, Trevor

Hi Leigh....welcome to the Forum Not sure myself, but if there are any on eBay or similar they might state the size even if they are not good enough quality to buy Let us know what you find as always useful information to post on here

The Italian Tune up always works 🙂 The turbo lag will be the same thing, coked up with carbon so gently increase the engine revs over time and this should clear it through

Hi Jon That was my first thoughts. It is worth replacing both springs as if one has gone the other won't be too far behind and it gives an even drive and steering is not compromised.

Hi Richard.....welcome to the Forum You'll find that you can carry out a wide range of modifications on Civics but it always comes down to one thing.....money! However, there are some cheap mods you can do at home for a reasonable price without getting too carried away, such as suspension bushes and adjustable links which will make a huge difference to the handling. An upgrade on the brakes aswell is always a good thing to do before looking at any performance increases Keep us updated on the mods as always interested in seeing Civics modded