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I'm not sure, my mechanic didn't suggest welding it. I could ask him. He did mention that it looked corroded, and he said something about the replacement gasket not being as big as the OEM one which may have contributed to corrosion, not sure if I understand what he meant by that i.e. why the size of the gasket would impact corrosion. But I look at it myself - only he looked at it.

My 2006 Honda FR-V, 2.0l petrol has failed MOT with an exhaust leak, co content exceeding limits and lambda outside limits. My mechanic has pointed to the centre silencer, which is leaking at the joint with the rear section of the exhaust. Four years ago, I replaced the exhaust center silencer box with a pattern brand (EuroFlo) - I can't remember if as the OEM spare part was even available at that time. Is it normal for this component to wear out so quickly? I'm still using the original OEM exhaust for the rear section and that has lasted for 18 years and 100,000 miles without issues, whereas the replacement has failed after just four years. The EuroFlo part is still available, though the cost has doubled since I last purchased it and I'm probably not going to see much spare change from £300 to get it done, plus I have to source it myself as the mechanic says his suppliers are unable to obtain it. As far as I'm aware there's no other option here, any thoughts?

I measured the battery voltage with a multimeter. It was around 2.3V when it should have been 3.3! I guess one of the cells inside the battery must have suddenly failed to cause such a sudden voltage drop. I replaced the battery with another of the same batch and so far, so good.

My remote control was becoming slower and slower to respond, and it got to the point where I had to press it multiple times for it to open/lock the car. I changed the battery, and at the time I remember having some trouble getting it to work. Initially it refused to work and then after pressing the buttons a few times it started to work. This was in early August. Then last week I went out; when I unlocked the car it worked perfectly but when I came to lock the car the remote control was completely dead. No gradual degradation like I had last time, and the battery was changed only a couple of months ago. I was able to lock the car with the key, but when I unlocked the car it set the alarm off! I suspect the battery is bad, but it's strange that it failed so suddenly, and so soon, as opposed to the previous battery which wore out gradually over a much longer period of time. Any thoughts? (And is there any other way to turn off the alarm if the remote control isn't working?)

Mine is similar, although it is temperamental. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I have a 2006 FR-V, and I believe mine was actually installed aftermarket, it's not in the original spec. The control unit is within the cavity where you get access to change the rear light bulbs if I recall correctly. It's been stuck onto the inner face of the wall of the car with a velcro pad. However I haven't managed to be able to see it clearly enough to do anything meaningful with it as it has very limited manouverability with the cables attached. Every so often after the car is serviced it will work well for a month or two. I'm not sure what it is that the mechanic is doing that sorts it out, maybe it's a lose connection maybe it's some kind of electrical issue. But it doesn't even happen every year so I'm really not sure.

eBay would be the obvious suggestion but I'm guessing you've already tried there. There's a European outfit called Autodoc you could try https://www.autodoc.co.uk/. Shipping is usually from Europe so it might take a bit longer than usual. Good luck

I found this thread on Reddit which has a video where you can hear the whirring sound. If this is what's happening to yours, then it sounds like the conclusion is to replace the starter motor.

You might be able to work it out from the parts diagrams which are available on https://parts-honda.uk/

I can't quite tell for sure what you are talking about, but it could potentially be the vanity mirror built into the visor. Is it possible there's a flap there that pulls forward? If not, perhaps a photo or two would help to work out what it is.

There are parts diagrams available on parts-honda.uk They also have a reverse "part assignment" search feature that lets you put in a part number and see what models it is used in. However that search unfortunately seems to have some sort of limit to the number of results it will show online. Perhaps if you manage to make contact with the company that runs the website they will be able to get you the full list?

Thank you. In the end I ordered an X-Pro branded battery from batterygroup.co.uk So far so good.

Another question that came to mind - some sites mentioned a "hold down", whilst others don't even seem to mention it. What does this mean? Is this important? Can you replace a battery that has one hold down style with a battery that uses a different one? Thanks in advance

I just tried to do the same thing. I did pull back the inner plastic liner over the wheel arch to stick my hand up to reach the bulb from that angle as suggested in the owner's manual, but couldn't get the bulb fitting to budge. I didn't have any pliers on me as I didn't realise I'd need them. I had a brief go at doing it from the top but didn't want to poke around too much from that angle - I reasoned that it would probably be harder from that angle otherwise they would probably have recommended it in the owner's handbook. Maybe if I'd have unclipped the main headlights first it would have been easier. Tried it for 20mins or so but eventually gave up, will ask a professional mechanic to do it.

Not sure if this will help but how long are you waiting to get air out of them? I've noticed with mine that for the first few minutes after you start the engine there's no airflow through some/all of the vents, I assume it's waiting for the engine/coolant to warm up so that the air will blow out at the specified temperature rather than blow air at the wrong temperature. There is a button on the controls to demist the windscreen which usually puts the fan on high and makes it blow out immediately.

Have a look on parts-honda.uk I found the parts diagram for the springs/shock absorbers for my car there - FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER for Honda FR-V 2.0 SE-S 5 Doors 6 speed manual 2006 The part number for the actual spring seems to be 51401-SJF-014. If you put that in Google I'm sure you'll find some. eBay certainly seems to list some. Note that this is specific to my particular model. I don't know if the different variants/model years use exactly the same spring or if there are different ones.

I've had that happened once or twice. I think it's when the deadlocks get jammed/refuse to unlock. However in my case it has sorted itself out. I have a suspicion that a vertical jolt to the door e.g. when being lifted up or put down on a lift ramp it somehow seems to make it work again temporarily. I tried bashing it from underneath with a hammer and this didn't help. The most common thing that happens frequently to mine is that I have is that the front passenger door doesn't lock automatically with the central locking, but the manual interior locking tab works.

This probably doesn't help that much but there were some guides on the old Honda Karma / H-Tune forums showing how to do it. Unfortunately that site is gone now but perhaps that guide is floating around on the internet somewhere.

A battery on its way out can trigger unexpected codes as charging a bad battery (which happens all the time the engine is running) can cause abnormal voltage fluctuations in the electrical system. When this happened to mine though, there were two codes, one to do with the steering yaw rate sensor and another that explicitly said "battery voltage low". I've also had P0420 ostensibly about the catalytic converter but potentially it's also related to the battery issues.

This sounds similar to what happened when the catalytic converter was stolen from my FR-V. Insurers wanted to write it off, but I successfully challenged that and in the end they agreed to give me a cash payout which I could use to have it repaired. However when I spoke to some local mechanics, none of them could get the parts so I did some research and ordered the parts myself. If it's exhaust parts you're after, try Motor Parts Direct (mpdonline.co.uk) or https://www.onlineautomotive.co.uk/car-parts/Honda/CR-V/2.0L/Petrol/Premium/Exhausts/Exhaust-System/HACRV20 3008A00/1/52 You'll almost certainly find the sensors on eBay. Or once you know the part numbers that are compatible with your car you can Google around to try to find the cheapest place that sells them. If you want a one-stop-shop, https://catman.co.uk/ will sell you everything you need though in my case that would have worked out more expensive. I know this isn't quite what you were looking for but I'm posting here as it may also assist potential buyers.

Hello Is there any guideline as to how much oil the engine is expected to use. Every time I check it (which isn't that often) the oil seems to be low. And whilst we're talking about oil - what is the best oil to buy? When I put the registration in to various car parts stores they usually seem to recommend an oil that is designed for Ford engines. Is it important to stick to the exact recommended API category (the handbook says) SJ or SL, or is it ok to use SN instead? Besides the API specification, is there anything else that matters? The manual specifies 5W30 viscosity.

Thanks @Trevorfor this detailed and highly informative response. It seems like it's more of a question of finding a technician competent to do the assessment than finding the equipment. Wish I'd have known that earlier - every mechanic/garage I asked just ran the standard MOT tests and as you say - had no idea about the existence of the 5-gas analyser function. If anyone knows of a garage in North West London area who understands these things, please feel free to chime in with a recommendation. At this point though, I guess it's now mostly a 'lesson learnt' (though I accept the point about the potential risk to the new catalytic converter if there is an underlying engine fault that is still present). I do still have a decision to make with respect to the old catalytic converter and whether to try to push the supplier to accept it as a warranty return, or whether to accept it back and try to re-use (or resell) it somehow.

Thanks for responding again, I appreciate it. The actual report was in another thread I posted - you mentioned that the report indicates that O2 levels were too high although O2 wasn't mentioned directly on the report. I am not sure where I could get a full 5-gas emissions test done, looks like MOT test reports only show three of those figures.

Thought I'd post an update here. Besides the MOT-style emissions check (see previous post) I wasn't able to find anywhere else that was able to give a more detailed readout of the gas levels. So after looking around for other avenues of investigation I decided to replace the catalytic converter. That did sort out the fault code and the yellow light which - to me, suggests the catalytic converter was at fault, but when I tried to return the catalytic converter they claimed that it wasn't eligible for warranty return because HC reading on the emissions test I supplied was too high which indicates over fuelling. Does this make sense? If the vehicle was over-fuelling which somehow was the root cause of the problem, wouldn't it continue to do so and the fault code would come straight back with the new catalytic converter? They're offering that I can have the catalytic converter back that I tried to return for warranty claim. If they're trying to fob me off to avoid having to refund - then I should stand my ground but if they are right then does that mean the previous catalytic converter was actually working fine and I could resell it / try to use it on another vehicle? (I know that it's type specific so it wouldn't fit any other models which restricts the potential resale market for it but let's just leave that aside for now).

I think it's time to replace the battery on my 2006 FR-V (petrol). Looking around I can see various batteries priced from £35-£150, and it looks like different retailers use different codes for the same thing as well. For example there's Powerline 048 which costs less than £40, Yuasa YBX5053 / HSB053 which is around double that or something like Lion 158 Car Battery which falls somewhere in between. As far as I can tell all these batteries would be compatible so are there any advantages of getting the more expensive batteries vs the cheaper brands?

You might be able to find it on one of the parts diagrams, e.g. on this site: https://www.parts-honda.uk/ Alternatively, there's Honda MaRIS, but it's not cheap.