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ec5780

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Everything posted by ec5780

  1. You might be able to work it out from the parts diagrams which are available on https://parts-honda.uk/
  2. I can't quite tell for sure what you are talking about, but it could potentially be the vanity mirror built into the visor. Is it possible there's a flap there that pulls forward? If not, perhaps a photo or two would help to work out what it is.
  3. There are parts diagrams available on parts-honda.uk They also have a reverse "part assignment" search feature that lets you put in a part number and see what models it is used in. However that search unfortunately seems to have some sort of limit to the number of results it will show online. Perhaps if you manage to make contact with the company that runs the website they will be able to get you the full list?
  4. Thank you. In the end I ordered an X-Pro branded battery from batterygroup.co.uk So far so good.
  5. Another question that came to mind - some sites mentioned a "hold down", whilst others don't even seem to mention it. What does this mean? Is this important? Can you replace a battery that has one hold down style with a battery that uses a different one? Thanks in advance
  6. I just tried to do the same thing. I did pull back the inner plastic liner over the wheel arch to stick my hand up to reach the bulb from that angle as suggested in the owner's manual, but couldn't get the bulb fitting to budge. I didn't have any pliers on me as I didn't realise I'd need them. I had a brief go at doing it from the top but didn't want to poke around too much from that angle - I reasoned that it would probably be harder from that angle otherwise they would probably have recommended it in the owner's handbook. Maybe if I'd have unclipped the main headlights first it would have been easier. Tried it for 20mins or so but eventually gave up, will ask a professional mechanic to do it.
  7. Not sure if this will help but how long are you waiting to get air out of them? I've noticed with mine that for the first few minutes after you start the engine there's no airflow through some/all of the vents, I assume it's waiting for the engine/coolant to warm up so that the air will blow out at the specified temperature rather than blow air at the wrong temperature. There is a button on the controls to demist the windscreen which usually puts the fan on high and makes it blow out immediately.
  8. Have a look on parts-honda.uk I found the parts diagram for the springs/shock absorbers for my car there - FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER for Honda FR-V 2.0 SE-S 5 Doors 6 speed manual 2006 The part number for the actual spring seems to be 51401-SJF-014. If you put that in Google I'm sure you'll find some. eBay certainly seems to list some. Note that this is specific to my particular model. I don't know if the different variants/model years use exactly the same spring or if there are different ones.
  9. I've had that happened once or twice. I think it's when the deadlocks get jammed/refuse to unlock. However in my case it has sorted itself out. I have a suspicion that a vertical jolt to the door e.g. when being lifted up or put down on a lift ramp it somehow seems to make it work again temporarily. I tried bashing it from underneath with a hammer and this didn't help. The most common thing that happens frequently to mine is that I have is that the front passenger door doesn't lock automatically with the central locking, but the manual interior locking tab works.
  10. This probably doesn't help that much but there were some guides on the old Honda Karma / H-Tune forums showing how to do it. Unfortunately that site is gone now but perhaps that guide is floating around on the internet somewhere.
  11. A battery on its way out can trigger unexpected codes as charging a bad battery (which happens all the time the engine is running) can cause abnormal voltage fluctuations in the electrical system. When this happened to mine though, there were two codes, one to do with the steering yaw rate sensor and another that explicitly said "battery voltage low". I've also had P0420 ostensibly about the catalytic converter but potentially it's also related to the battery issues.
  12. This sounds similar to what happened when the catalytic converter was stolen from my FR-V. Insurers wanted to write it off, but I successfully challenged that and in the end they agreed to give me a cash payout which I could use to have it repaired. However when I spoke to some local mechanics, none of them could get the parts so I did some research and ordered the parts myself. If it's exhaust parts you're after, try Motor Parts Direct (mpdonline.co.uk) or https://www.onlineautomotive.co.uk/car-parts/Honda/CR-V/2.0L/Petrol/Premium/Exhausts/Exhaust-System/HACRV20 3008A00/1/52 You'll almost certainly find the sensors on eBay. Or once you know the part numbers that are compatible with your car you can Google around to try to find the cheapest place that sells them. If you want a one-stop-shop, https://catman.co.uk/ will sell you everything you need though in my case that would have worked out more expensive. I know this isn't quite what you were looking for but I'm posting here as it may also assist potential buyers.
  13. Hello Is there any guideline as to how much oil the engine is expected to use. Every time I check it (which isn't that often) the oil seems to be low. And whilst we're talking about oil - what is the best oil to buy? When I put the registration in to various car parts stores they usually seem to recommend an oil that is designed for Ford engines. Is it important to stick to the exact recommended API category (the handbook says) SJ or SL, or is it ok to use SN instead? Besides the API specification, is there anything else that matters? The manual specifies 5W30 viscosity.
  14. Thanks @Trevorfor this detailed and highly informative response. It seems like it's more of a question of finding a technician competent to do the assessment than finding the equipment. Wish I'd have known that earlier - every mechanic/garage I asked just ran the standard MOT tests and as you say - had no idea about the existence of the 5-gas analyser function. If anyone knows of a garage in North West London area who understands these things, please feel free to chime in with a recommendation. At this point though, I guess it's now mostly a 'lesson learnt' (though I accept the point about the potential risk to the new catalytic converter if there is an underlying engine fault that is still present). I do still have a decision to make with respect to the old catalytic converter and whether to try to push the supplier to accept it as a warranty return, or whether to accept it back and try to re-use (or resell) it somehow.
  15. Thanks for responding again, I appreciate it. The actual report was in another thread I posted - you mentioned that the report indicates that O2 levels were too high although O2 wasn't mentioned directly on the report. I am not sure where I could get a full 5-gas emissions test done, looks like MOT test reports only show three of those figures.
  16. Thought I'd post an update here. Besides the MOT-style emissions check (see previous post) I wasn't able to find anywhere else that was able to give a more detailed readout of the gas levels. So after looking around for other avenues of investigation I decided to replace the catalytic converter. That did sort out the fault code and the yellow light which - to me, suggests the catalytic converter was at fault, but when I tried to return the catalytic converter they claimed that it wasn't eligible for warranty return because HC reading on the emissions test I supplied was too high which indicates over fuelling. Does this make sense? If the vehicle was over-fuelling which somehow was the root cause of the problem, wouldn't it continue to do so and the fault code would come straight back with the new catalytic converter? They're offering that I can have the catalytic converter back that I tried to return for warranty claim. If they're trying to fob me off to avoid having to refund - then I should stand my ground but if they are right then does that mean the previous catalytic converter was actually working fine and I could resell it / try to use it on another vehicle? (I know that it's type specific so it wouldn't fit any other models which restricts the potential resale market for it but let's just leave that aside for now).
  17. I think it's time to replace the battery on my 2006 FR-V (petrol). Looking around I can see various batteries priced from £35-£150, and it looks like different retailers use different codes for the same thing as well. For example there's Powerline 048 which costs less than £40, Yuasa YBX5053 / HSB053 which is around double that or something like Lion 158 Car Battery which falls somewhere in between. As far as I can tell all these batteries would be compatible so are there any advantages of getting the more expensive batteries vs the cheaper brands?
  18. You might be able to find it on one of the parts diagrams, e.g. on this site: https://www.parts-honda.uk/ Alternatively, there's Honda MaRIS, but it's not cheap.
  19. Thanks. In this case, replacing the sensor (2nd time, with the genuine one as I mentioned in my first post) seems to have done the trick but it's good to know about the potential issue with HT Leads.
  20. Do you mean which warning light? It was the yellow 'engine malfunction light' which looks like the outline of an engine The fault code was as per the thread title, except I got two digits swapped round, it should have been: P0325 Knock Sensor 1 No Signal
  21. Hello Just wanted to share my experience. 2006 Honda FR-V, 2.0L petrol. Started to get this code coming up. At first I ignored it for a while hoping it was a one-off (there was also another possibly unrelated fault as well that was also causing the yellow light to come on). I decided to investigate it so I had the mechanic reset it and within 15mins it had already come back on again, before I had even gone home. Seeing that the part from Honda costs around £150 I ordered this one from eBay and asked my mechanic to fit it. Two days later the light came back on again. I am not sure that the above is as genuine as it seemed, so I decided to bite the bullet and buy one directly from Honda and hope for the best. Sent the one back from eBay and received a prompt refund, and so far all good with the new one. Only loss really is that I've had to pay the mechanic to do the job twice.
  22. Hello I'm thinking about getting a code reader / scanner. Can anyone offer any advice about what to get or what to look for, or perhaps recommend a particular model? I don't want to spend a fortune but would be interested to know what options there are and what you get for paying a bit more?
  23. Motor Parts Direct is a nationwide chain that sell EuroFlo catalytic converters. They're also sold on onlineautomotive.co.uk. Last I looked, Online Automotive seemed to be selling some of the parts at a discount and others above the standard price.
  24. https://www.hondaparts247.co.uk/ I believe that site is run by Holdcroft Honda of Cobridge. Otherwise, I just go to my local dealer. Some parts are discounted.
  25. Thanks again Trevor. I think the Lambda reading shown on that report was 1.009 rather than 1.09. (Next to that line, the report says says 'OK'). Do you know where I could get a four or five gas test done? MOT stations don't seem to understand what I'm asking for, all they can do is the standard MOT test (which seems to pass on the second fast idle test - I've had this done three times) Update: Meanwhile I've found someone who does exhaust gas testing - http://www.mobile-car-servicing.co.uk/MOT-emissions.html - it but the prices quoted on the website is £120, which is more than the price of a new oxygen sensor... 😒
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