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ec5780

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Everything posted by ec5780

  1. There was a post on this on the old Honda Karma/H-Tune forums before they disappeared, can't remember everything that was mentioned but offhand: look for rust around the wheel arches brakes have a habit of binding when the callipers get stuck Otherwise in general they're reliable cars - automatic and manual. Not applicable to the model you've mentioned but: pre-2007 petrol models (1.7L and 2.0L engine) are a target for catalytic converter thieves, so it's likely that the catalytic converter will not be the original one. From 2007 onwards the catalytic converter is in the engine bay so much more difficult to steal. possibly something about the flywheel on diesels but I can't remember what
  2. Just found this topic again, thought I'd update. In the end the light came back on again three months later, so I had the sensor replaced. It's underneath the radiator. When the sensor came out, the socket was visibly corroded.
  3. See my post on another thread - MaRIS might help but there is a cost to it.
  4. Miles, how frustrating! Assuming you've replaced the catalytic converter with a modern, cheaper replacement (you almost certainly have since the original one is no longer available), it's unlikely to attract thieves. The modern catalytic converters don't use the same precious metals which means its not worth thieves while to steal it - they'd probably be better off with a tyre! Thieves know this and the new ones look different enough that they can identify them quickly too. I haven't put any additional protection on mine and its not been touched for more than a year now. (And there have been another spate of catalytic converter thefts in this area, though this time they're targeting different cars as most Hondas have already been done!).
  5. It's not likely that the replacement catalytic converter will get stolen again. The replacement ones are not worth anything near as much, and they look distinctively different so the thieves wouldn't bother. From the photo, looks like the lambda sensors were taken as well. Please post back here to report how it goes. With ours the replacement catalytic converter started to trip the yellow engine management light after about 3 months. Still not sure what to do about it.
  6. There's a cost to it but you could try looking on Honda MaRIS
  7. Have you tried local or national scrap yards e.g. https://www.breakeryard.com/? Also worth looking on eBay and Gumtree sometimes people list cars and then you read the description it turns out they're not actually selling the car whole but instead they're breaking it and selling the individual parts from it.
  8. I'm not thinking of buying in near-new condition, but would like to see it brought back so that when the car I have needs replacing there'll be a car like this available that's new enough / low enough mileage.
  9. I've seen people posting online (even on this forum I think) about problems with FR-V central locking. But usually the symptom is that one door will not lock or unlock, rather than all doors unlocking and then immediately locking again. The actuators are obviously one per door so usually only one door is affected at a time - although once one goes the others can start to go too, it's unlikely they would all start playing up on exactly the same day. Good luck with it - hope you manage to sort it out.
  10. I have no idea I'm afraid but have you tried unlocking the doors with the key rather than pressing the remote control buttons? There is a feature (at least on mine) that seems to be intended to guard against accidentally unlocking the car. If you unlock the doors and then don't open any door within a set time (I think it's a few minutes) it locks itself again. Perhaps that timer has gone wrong? (Unfortunately I have no idea where it is or how it works/how to troubleshoot/replace it)
  11. When we had our catalytic converter stolen (2.0L petrol), we found that the OEM parts were no longer available (unsurprisingly), but EuroFlo are making pattern replacement parts. You can check if EuroFlo are making parts for your model on their website. If they are you can get them at several places, try Online Auto Motive (though beware they sometimes sell the main parts cheaper and the fixings and fittings (bolts, etc) more expensive to make up the difference) or Motor Parts Direct who have an extensive network of parts shops across the UK. You may find that Motor Parts Direct can order the part you need even if it doesn't show on their website. Hope this helps
  12. Not the cheapest/easiest way but if all else fails you can subscribe to Honda MaRIS for an hour for €10, which should have the diagrams and instructions you need. If it's a fuse that you are after (rather than a relay), at least for the fuse box in the engine compartment there is a diagram of which fuse does what on the underside of the plastic fusebox cover. It may be worthwhile looking around to see if there is a similar diagram on something you have to remove to access the other fuse box (if that's indeed where the relevant fuse is).
  13. I know it's been quite a while now but have you tried looking at the diagrams on https://www.parts-honda.uk/
  14. There was a post on the old Honda Karma / H-Tune forums about this. Unfortunately those forums are no longer online but from memory the overall comment was that it's a good buy just a few things to watch out for: corrosion by the rear wheel arches rear brakes binding there may have been one other thing that escapes me. It may have only been relevant to a certain subset like the diesel or automatic versions My own comments: power steering can start whining. Usually replacing the o-rings and fluid does the trick, if so this is a cheap repair (petrol, manual) if it hasn't had a replacement clutch, chances are it will need one around 80,000-120,000 miles. They tend to hold their value relatively well (petrol model) check if it has an OEM catalytic converter. If so this is a target so ensure it's protected and/or marked. Some local police forces are doing this for free, either at a 'drop in' session or through the Honda dealers - in my area both have been offered. If it's a non-original replacement, it's less likely to be targeted as it's not worth very much to the thieves Hope this helps, good luck with it
  15. I may have been wrong about that, as I see there is a GSP one, but as you say it's out of stock. I guess you could contact them to ask if they know if/when it may come back into stock. Otherwise, how about this one from Autoparts24? Or if you scroll down on that page there are some similar ones that are cheaper - you'd have to check if they are the for the right model though.
  16. Stupid question perhaps but have you tried Amazon and eBay? Here's some other parts stores you can try, not sure if any of them will be able to help but if you have the time might be worth checking some of them. Euro Car Parts Motor Parts Direct GSF Car Spares parts-honda.uk https://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk https://www.lingshondaparts.com/ https://www.autoparts24.co.uk/ https://bestpartstore.co.uk/ https://www.bremboparts.com/europe/en/ hondadirectparts.com hondadirectparts.co.uk https://www.hondaparts247.co.uk https://nextdoor.co.uk/p/HxGL_TxXLMFM?view=detail opieoils carpartsforless Parts Gateway Or try searching in local car breakers in case you can find a second hand part. Also I may be speaking out of ignorance here but for something like a drive-shaft I'd guess that there may not be too many alternative / non-original options out there as it's presumably quite specific and not that widely needed? In which case I'd guess that your best bet is going to be the Honda dealers or breakers for a second hand one?
  17. Thanks for that added detail. I'd just assumed the same check that they do when they perform an MOT would suffice. I'll definitely bear this in mind.
  18. Thanks @Trevor for your reply. The cat is new but my mechanic thinks that it could have failed as it's not a manufacturer original and apparently you can be unlucky with the pattern ones. He suggested going to an MOT station to ask them check the emission levels. The first thing he did was to tried blocking the exhaust and looking for leaks but didn't find any leaks.
  19. Hello I have an 2006 FR-V, 2L petrol which has recently had a replacement catalytic converter and lambda sensors fitted after the originals were stolen. A couple of months after they were fitted, the yellow engine malfunction light has been coming on. I've taken it to my local mechanic who found the P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold fault code (alongside P2185 - although P0420 was listed first and I've had P2185 sporadically before). He's cleared it a few times but each time it comes back on within a week. I believe that P2185 has been resolved with a new coolant temperature sensor at the bottom of the radiator (the connectors in the old one were corroded) but I'm still left with P0420. What's the best thing to do from here? The mechanic has said he'll charge quite a lot just to diagnose this one. Thanks in advance
  20. This happened to us too this week. But with ours it was only for an hour or so. Then it started working again. Stupid question but did you try to lock/unlock it from the inside?
  21. Hi @iceman2010 I had this a couple of years ago. If I recall correctly it's the one marked number 11 on the parts diagram. (That site is useful to keep as it has loads of parts diagrams) I think that was the original part number, however I believe they changed it from black to red/orange at one point to improve it. I think, again from memory, the replacement part number is 91345-RDA-A01. I think that's the main one. There is also another one on the other side which is 91370-SV4-000. I think I had both o-rings changed at the same time but have read elsewhere online that this second one might not need doing. My mechanic said for the extra cost of the o-ring it was worth just doing it and save more potential problems later. When I did it, replacing just the o-rings wasn't enough, I also had to have the power steering fluid replaced as well. Hope this helps
  22. It's probably a bit late for you now, but I had exactly the same problem and posted quite a lot of info in my thread a couple of months earlier:
  23. I'm not sure about wiring diagrams but you can usually find the parts diagrams on some honda parts websites e.g. Lings Honda Parts There's another one Honda Spare Parts Catalogue Then there's the official Honda workshop manual which you can buy access to on a PAYG basis. It's not cheap though - Maintenance and Repair Information System (MaRIS) Hope this helps
  24. I've had brake binding issues. My mechanic advised me to replace the calliper with a reconditioned one rather than to try to service the calliper as the labour involved in trying to fix up the existing caliper wouldn't be worth it. Either way that seems to have solved the problem. Calliper replacement was eventually done on both wheels. In this case it wasn't the handbrake sticking. Just thinking aloud here - could the overheating brakes had damaged the sensor for VSA? Or perhaps its the faulty VSA which is causing the brakes to lock up and overheat? I know this doesn't help you that much but I hope you get yours sorted.
  25. Just to update everyone, after a lot of research it turns out that there aren't any options for the catalytic converter. I ordered the EuroFlo. When it arrived, alongside the EuroFlo label it was also marked with the equivalent AS model number, which I take to mean that EuroFlo and AS are selling exactly the same product under different model numbers. There is also a 'Vegas' branded exhaust on the market on some European sites and from looking at the picture I suspect that too is identical. I contacted HJS who said they don't make the exhaust for this model. Meanwhile Genuine Honda catalytic converters for this model are discontinued and sold out so there really isn't any choice on the actual catalytic converter. However you need more than just the catalytic converter itself. I contacted CatMan who was the only supplier able to supply everything all from one place. So if you want hassle free, that's a good option. Otherwise, if you want to do it the cheapest way: OnlineAutomotive.co.uk for the main exhaust components - the catalytic converter (ECHA1031-TA) and the central silencer (HA3087) - note that the part numbers listed on OnlineAutomotive are slightly different to the EuroFlo part numbers and that these parts are specific to the 2.0L engine. If you have a different engine you'll need a slightly different part - but the retailer or manufacturer will be able to tell you which is the correct one for your car. eBay / Motor Parts Direct / Euro Car Parts for the bolts and fittings. Euro Car Parts only have the bolt, but it's the cheapest place to get it. SparkPlugs.co.uk for the pre-cat lambda sensor (Denso DOX-0512) Parts In Motion for the post-cat lambda sensor (Intermotor 64766), although there were several brands which all seem to be manufactured by the same company. Note that this seems to be out of stock with them at the time of writing so if all else fails try eBay. I had my mechanic fit all the parts and it seems great. Perhaps a slight improvement in fuel economy which isn't a surprise I guess. Labour was a couple of hours for the exhaust. You have to be quite careful and pay attention particularly with the bolts and fittings to ensure you get the right quantity of the right bolts depending on exactly which sections need fitting together. Interestingly, we found the front gasket underneath the car when the car was towed away so I threw it in the bag with the parts and my mechanic said that he re-used even though it was 13 years old it because it was a better fit than the EuroFlo one I had ordered especially. I hope this helps someone
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