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Loofer

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Posts posted by Loofer

  1. 2 minutes ago, iceman2010 said:

    Does the unit just pull out or you have to remove the dash?  I see on pictures that the unit has 3 screws so assume these are behind the dash?

    If I recall, I had to remove the underside of the dash to unscrew it and also prose off the upper side to meaneouvre the control panel out. 3 fidly bolts

  2. 22 minutes ago, iceman2010 said:

    Hi did you manage to replace the window control unit in the end?  Was it just the switch or the whole thing?  I have a loose drivers switch on the control unit which functions but as the button is loose has become very sensitive to the touch, it’s only a matter of time before the window gets stuck in the down position!

    Hi, I couldn’t find a replacement for a price I was willing to pay so I just took mine apart, prised off the button, glued the lever a bit and stuck the button back on. It works now but has symptoms like yours, over sensitive

  3. On 10/29/2020 at 5:37 PM, qc2 said:

    it's not quite as straighforward as using off the shelf parts without modification.

     

    In terms of steering controls, the interface is most similar to Honda Civics so that's the interface you start with, but the civic harness adaptor is not the same as the FRV. What you need to do is combine the 2...

     

    parts you need (pictured):

    Connects2 CTSHO001.2 Steering wheel control interface for Honda Civic

    CTSHO001.2.png.2c413139831b3b2ba82800f2d971356d.png

    Autoleads PC2-68-4 basic ISO harness

    PC2-68-4.png.c106ca80bf8c2c4552c03cd86fccfc03.png

    CTMULTILEAD.2 steering wheel control patch lead (this one is universal but you can get specific ones for your brand of stereo, the instructions for teh universal patch shows you which wires to cut and which connector to use)

    ctmultilead.2.jpg.e6cb747d00da883ae69f2be13e27abc1.jpg

     

    CTSHO001.2 is the correct steering harness you need, but you need to chop off the Civic plug and replace it with the CRV/FRV one from a basic autoleads harness PC2-68-4. IMG_20160414_224450.thumb.jpg.4ed70c601b74939324f8a7dc6687866c.jpg

     

    Your reference to the green plug, this doesn't fit anywhere on the harness, but these are for the steering controls.

    IMG_20160414_224738.jpg.d045f873915ce3bdf54d80493f3351f5.jpg

    If you notice the grey plug in my picture with black and purple wires. This needs to connect to the green plug on the FRV wiring harness, except it won't fit. So you need to splice to black wire from grey plug on the interface to the orange wire on the green plug from the car. The remaining purple wire connects to the other wire (black/brown)

     

    Once everything is connected up, your controls should work.

     

     

    would be great if somebody was selling these as an off-the-shelf hack.

  4. Recently got a fault code reader and I suspect it suggests there's an air leak in one of the intake/charge pressure pipes.

    It's a generic reader so provides generic code.

     

    Was wondering if this site has any resources/Wikis for things like Fault Codes, Fuse boxes, wiring diagrams etc?

     

    FYI Fault codes I have (if anybody can decipher):

    P2017

    P1042

    P1401

    U0122

  5. 14 minutes ago, Trevor said:

    I think the boot can be opened by taking the panel off from inside the vehicle.

    Most of the plastic trims should just clip in and require a firm hand to detach the clips from the panels.

    You should be able to find some parts on Ebay to replace the defective components

    Thanks for responding Trevor.

    After faffing around inside the boot and looking at the mechanism when I took the plastic trim off, I’ve found a sticking plaster solution. The issue appears the be the boot lid handle doesn’t return back to its position, it’s stays in its “pulled” position. So for now, I just remember to push the handle back in. If I get time I’ll try and remove to see if it just needs a bit of WD40.

     

    The Glovebox I found the metal cable inside which I just tug on and can open. I just need a lock handle to attach to it.

     

    the electric window switch seems to be like hens teeth. can find individual ones for rest of the door easily on eBay but not the complete console that I need.

    • Like 1
  6. 24 minutes ago, Trevor said:

    Here is a video clip that may help you with programming the keys

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UDOvY7r2iss&ab_channel=advanceddiagnostics

    Thanks but appears I would need a diagnostic tool for the key.

    hoping to find somebody reasonably priced in the MANCHESTER area to do that.

     

    itks the fob I’d like to do myself. What I’ve seen from YouTube so far (all American based videos) is that you use the working key to switch  car on  4 times and press lock button on fob each each time.

     

    hope it works.

     

    is the immobiliser integrated into the key blade or is it a removable chip inside the housing?

  7. Hi, does anybody body know if there’s a way to reprogramme a 2nd remote fob to a 2005 FRV?

     

    i already have one working key & fob. Have ordered a 2nd hand fob as a spare.

    i know with some other brands there’s a sequence of events where you can programme another fob (providing ECU will accept Nth fob) by using an existing key whilst in ignition. Don’t need to tap into ECU/OBD

  8. Hi all, just bought a 2005 FRV CDTI.

     

    Got a few niggly bits I need to sort out...

    1. the boot wouldn’t shut closed, i.e. that reassuring click-clunk you get. When I eventually got it to shut and lock, it now won’t open. I’m assuming it could be the latch. I should’ve given it a spray of WD40 when it was open. Is there anyway to open the boot from inside? What could be the problem?
    2. cant believe we didn’t notice this when looking at car but the glovebox handle is missing, so we can’t open that. It’s just a whole there.
    3. The driver’s electric window switch is faulty. It appears I can’t just replace the button, I have to replace the whole electric window switch console (that controls rest of windows in car). Not sure if it’s a common fault as I was searching for the part on eBay and the only one available also has a faulty drivers button. How do I take the switch console out? Can I prise it out or do I have to remove the trim first?

     

    other than scouring eBay and scrapyards, are there any known part suppliers?

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