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Thanks Alan gsd Did try the WD40 solution but unfortunately for me, it didn’t work. However I started doing some more logical testing as to when the door locks was activated. My analysis was: 1.0. The locks only triggered after 30 sec if the large back door was open. 2.0. Then I started looking the door sensor (see photo). The spring on that has come off so when the door is opened the lever doesn’t retract to the open position. when I manually slide the lever to the open position, the doors don’t lock. Could be I have cracked it, just need either a new lever or a compatible spring.

Hi Paul, the more I look into the 4 wheel drive the more confused I get, we need Trevor or BAZZER RN words of wisdom to clear up if the 2005 CRV are all 4 wheel drive and if there is anyway of knowing when it kicks in.

Had the same kind of problem with my 2005 CRV went round a put a spray of WD40 round each door window button and it's been ok since.

Hi, did you get any further with fitting a subwoofer? I'm considering this myself for my hrv advance. Thanks

Morning everyone, I am wondering if the forum can help me with a fairly simple question. My wife’s battered but much loved 2003 CRV, a few weeks ago developed an annoying habit namely if we open the back door to load, say shopping, after 30 sec there is a click and all the doors lock. The obvious danger is if we had accidentally put the keys on the floor of the boot and then closed the back door, we are locked out of the car. The accident just waiting to happen, did. Fortunately with the help of a host of bystanders, a coat hanger, string and a magnet, we managed to recover the keys. Further to add, no we don’t have a spare set of keys. Two question arose that I would value the forums comments on. 1. Has anyone come across the automatic locking condition before? It’s only just started happening so it’s either an electrical fault or a setting that I have accidentally triggered. 2. Can anyone suggest where I can get a replacement door key or FOB. I am not looking to be able to start the car as that would involve the expense of coding the immobiliser etc . I just want to open the door and recover the keys if it happens again. All comments appreciated. Les W

Hello Thanks for your reply Do you know when and how the 4WD kicks in please?

I've just bought a new "24" plate HR-V Hybrid Advance Style which, according to the manual, has the Traffic Sign Recognition System fitted which can show both speed signs and traffic signs. However, the system only ever shows speed signs but never any traffic signs. The dealership cannot understand this and don't know how to fix it and a query direct to Honda UK unhelpfully tells me to go back to the dealership. Has anyone any knowledge of this issue or whether it is still an active system?

Hello Paul, welcome to the club. Below is part of a report by 'What Car' I have a CRV same year as yours and find it a great car but I don't take it off road. I did know a guy who owned a Ranger Rover who got who got stuck all the time, turned out he had the wrong tryes for off road work. What's the used Honda CR-V estate like? The CR-V is more a pumped-up estate than out-and-out off-roader. In fact, 4WD only kicks in when it's needed, so for the bulk of the time, you're driving a front-wheel-drive car. In other words, and as Honda will admit, this is basically a road car with some (very limited) off-road ability. That means, with no awkward compromises to strike between its on- and off-road abilities, the car can concentrate on one thing - and so it does, to tremendous effect.

This won't help much, but just wanted to say that in terms of obtaining parts for these (depending on what you need) it is rather tricky at times. For example, none of the scrapyards within 30 mile radius of me have any of 1st gen crv's in stock. As you've mentioned some parts are discontinued. The only hope is to keep checking eBay until something pops up, or find someone who is breaking one up for parts, but that would be eBay as well I suppose. Good luck.

Not yet, although it is on the to do list. Lack of time is a factor. Though the transmission is changing gears smoothly and there is no clonking when engaging gears. When I eventually get round to changing the fluid I will put an update up. The fluid itself does not look too bad. It is not new, I can tell that much, but not too bad. Is the filter actually a serviceable item on these transmissions, or can you only access it when you are rebuilding the gearbox?

it would be very helpful to have a picture of the windscreen washer pipe layout under the offside rear floor well. Two elbows I believe?

Hi everyone New member here, hello! I have purchased this car to be a farm run around in a field, pulling a trailer, roller etc. The car is 4WD (a key requirement for me when buying) but this appears to be ‘automatic’ rather than engaged through any controls on the dash. On its first outing the car got stuck in a muddy field very quickly and it was not easy to get it out as it got stuck every time it was freed again until it was virtually back out the field. I had done some research before buying and saw people off road with their CRVs and some very steep hills so I am disappointed with my experience to date. Have joined the forum to understand more about the 4WD aspect of the car and its operation, tips for driving etc. Any responses appreciated and thanks for reading. Paul

Hi all again. I have this annoying shudder when starting off from stopped. It only lasts a second, then is gone, until your taking off from being stopped again. The car runs perfectly at all speeds in every other way. If it were a manual car, my first guess would be to think it would be the clutch, or as its a 4 X 4 prop bearings. May be significant, but it only does this after it has been running at least a few minutes, perfect when stone cold, no shudder/judder. I am going to try and discount the gearbox, by having a fluid and filter change. If that has muck in it from 86000 miles of use, (no evidence the fluid has ever been changed) that might mess around with the oil pressure and influence the take off. I will report here again once that has been done. Is there any way I can electrically disable the 4 x 4 for testing to see if its that, which is making the shudder? If anyone has had the same type of problem, please let me know what happened, and how you fixed it. Also if you have any ideas please let me know. Anyway, thanks for reading this, and any help would be greatly appreciated. Eddie

That's great to hear, thanks for letting us know.

Thanks for your reply Trevor, in the end I just winged it. I chose two vacant fuse holders after looking at the layout and it worked. Switches on /off with the ignition so I'm happy. Luck of the Irish I suppose.

Sorry can't remember which fuse I tapped into but had to use a multimeter to find a suitable feed that was ignition switched or permanent (depending on what route you want to go)

Have you tried a new (quality) battery as if the old one needs charging periodically it may have faulty cells and this can cause the issues you are describing (if the battery cannot deliver a high enough voltage on start up then this will flag the lights)

Have you tried a fluid and filter change which may revive the transmissions performance?

If you decide to sell it then you are welcome to advertise it in the Cars For Sale section of the forums https://uk.hondaownersclub.com/forums/forum/58-hondas-for-sale/

Can you not get them reconditioned.....I'm sure there are still some companies that can do this service

Sounds like the ignition system is being powered to the accessory setting on the key, I would check any relays and see if they click when they should and substitute like for like to see if it makes any difference to the clock display being permanently on

Sometimes it can be a tough one to diagnose. The best way would be to attach a multimeter to the battery and then systematically remove fuses until the current drops then you'll know where the faulty circuit is located

Which engine does it have?

Does the battery need coding into the vehicle - e.g. vehicle may have to recognise new battery voltage otherwise will still be reading the old voltage If in doubt, worth checking to see if it has this function