Trevor

If the engine turns over at a fast speed (with no resistance from the cylinders pumping) then it sounds like the timing belt/chain has broken. If you remove the oil filler cap and if possible see if the camshaft is turning when someone is turning the engine over on the key and if it is not then it is no longer connected to the crankshaft and its game over Let us know what you find

Glad to hear the CRV is okay now. I used to live in Port Solent and ride my motorbike up to the hill....lovely viewpoint and as for the burgers, what can I say....they're like a three-course meal and that's without the chips! 🙂

Hi Martin.....welcome to the Forum It could be related if a common sensor is providing information to both systems. It may be worth switching off the Stop/Start to see if this makes any difference to the operation of the Cruise Control Let us know what you find out

Let us know how you get on with the fuel filter. I replaced one on my CRV diesel after that was displaying similar symptoms (forgot about that one). By the way, is Micks Monster Burgers still on Portsdown Hill ?

Hi Moss.....welcome to the Forum I owned a CRV for many years and find it a superb vehicle. They of course have their failings but these are so minimal and cheap to resolve. Always looking for any help you can provide to the Forum along the way Good to have you onboard

Hi Charlotte....welcome to the Forum There are stores who sell the discs a lot cheaper than the dealer https://www.satnavishop.co.uk/honda-22-c.asp Good to have you onboard

Hi Ken....welcome to the Forum I would be tempted to trawl the local scrap yards to see what they have there. If its a common alloy then I'm sure they should be widely available Let us know how you get on with finding one

That sounds fair enough to me....would get more from a manual gearbox but for an auto, thats not bad at all

Hi Andy I wonder if it is the Turbo variable vanes gummed up, quite common on a lot of cars. With the Automatic Transmission, it tends to shift up early and the Turbo would not get the spooling it needs to keep it clear of carbon. Would suggest to get it scanned and see if it comes up with boost related issues. If so, then an Italian Tune-Up is required to get it clear and keep it clean by driving it hard every so often

It may possibly be the battery at fault. If the battery is completely flat and sulphated and may also have defective cells, then this will not allow the alternator to charge due to excessively low voltage being supplied to it. It would be worthwhile trying a new battery and then taking a reading from the alternator once the engine is running with a fresh battery.

It is quite possible that it could be the friction lining material on the clutch plate that is causing it to judder but also the dual mass flywheel could also cause this but unlikely to be there going from 1st to 2nd gear. The CRV also uses a SAC (self adjusting clutch) which is too weak for the purpose so that also may be a possible cause.

Usually on a card within the handbook pack but otherwise it is a trip to the local dealership who should be able to provide it at no cost to you

Hi....is it petrol or diesel?

Did they replace the Dual Mass Flywheel at the same time? Also, is there any noises associated with the shuddering?

My first thoughts are that it has to be related to the Battery replacement. Either the terminals are loose or corroded and especially check the earth connections from the battery to the chassis. Check also loose connections throughout the engine bay but more so in and around the battery area

That's a very odd one....sounds like a relay is latching in and powering the lights while switched off. However, it could also be a wiring issue rather than a relay. The first thing I would do is a 'wiggle test' to determine where (in the wiring) there may be an issue (such as a connector block). Also, check other simple things like incorrect bulbs fitted which could be backfeeding the electrical system.

The only other thing it could be is the Rear Diff oil needs changing. This can occur if not changed within the specified time period and leads to the diff locking up. If this occurs then you need to flush the diff and replace the fluid with the specified oil https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-HONDA-CRV-2007-2017-REAR-DIFF-FLUID-FLUSH-KIT-SUPPLY-REG-FOR-WASHERS/303409859926?fits=Car+Make%3AHonda|Model%3ACR-V&hash=item46a4a30d56:g:oCoAAOSwJHhcpIUk

I would think that would be the best bet...a reputable independent garage can tackle those jobs a lot cheaper than a dealer could.

Hi John...welcome to the Forum I have seen people covering the dashboard with some non-reflective material to cut out the glare. You can also get some matt polish to apply to the surface to dull it down.

Thought that might be the case, although I would be concerned if they find too much wrong but if its only just a couple of things and they generally work on a fixed-price system for brake pads. The exhaust could possibly be welded but I imagine they might replace the whole section. Keep us informed on how it all goes

I wonder if they are looking at other service recall issues at the same time or possibly looking for additional work (e.g. worn discs and pads)? Let us know what they come back with when you collect it later

Perfect solution:-) Which college are you at? Highbury, Fareham?

Is there anyway you could scan the system to see what codes are there....cheap scan tool or local specialist? Maybe a coding issue, could be a code that needs erasing from the memory, air in the system?

Hi Dan....welcome to the Forums Good to have you onboard

Hi Dan...welcome to the Forum I would have a look at it first and determine your skill level and also the tools required before diving into the task. With me, its more limited space to get my hands in several different directions within the confined area between the engine and chassis 😞 Otherwise, it should be a straightforward enough task you should be able to attempt. Let us know how you get on with it