Trevor

Hi...welcome to the Forum I think you'll find the Jazz handbook to be as useful as most of the other Honda range. My CRV book is several hundred pages and is still a nightmare to set up systems. Try YouTube for a video to explain what it is you want to achieve. Good to have you onboard Cheers, Trevor

Hi Jeanette It sounds like it is something mechanical that is causing the fault as opposed to an electrical/electronic fault. Other reasons for the engine management going into limp home mode could be blocked exhaust/catalytic converter, variable turbo vanes gummed up with carbon.....all of which will restrict performance and may not flag a warning lamp or fault code. Generally though, if the engine management amber warning lamp is on then there should be a code to accompany it. Let us know what you find Cheers . Trevor

It wouldn't damage the turbo, it would just lose pressure You wouldn't want it leaking on the intake side as this can damage the seals in the turbo

If it is steel tube then welding is an option Cast iron can still be welded but is more specialist

Hi Bruce....welcome to the Forums Feel free to post up an advert for the car when you get round to selling it

The trouble with that is water tracks through so you will never usually find where it originates from whereas smoke will only come out through a gap or hole by itself rather than tracking along somewhere

Hi....welcome to the Forum Can't go wrong with a CRV....superb reliable vehicle. Good to have you onboard Cheers, Trevor

Try these guys....was going to get one myself but sold the vehicle before actually ordering one. http://www.iceboxauto.com/honda

The rear diff oil gives a clunking noise when turning on a sharp turn at low speed (hard lock left or right going onto a driveway for example) You would then need to change the oil with the special fluid from Honda

Try taking it to a garage who has a smoke generator which will identify where the leak is coming from

Hi Suzie.....welcome to the forum I would initially look at the rear light lenses as a source of the water entering the boot area. If you remove the lenses and apply some silicone sealant to the gaskets before refitting then that may cure it or at least eliminate the lenses as being the culprit.

Hi....welcome to the Forum Tried looking up the Stream on Eurocarparts but although it was listed, it didn't show any more detail than this below: Still can't find what you're looking for?Call our expert team on+44 (0) 203 788 7842 Alternatively you can email your enquiry to partrequest@eurocarparts.com

Hi....welcome to the Forum It could be a sticking brake pad or caliper. If you strip it down and check it out you will more than likely find the issue, and hopefully a cheap fix

Maybe worth trying to source one direct from Japan. Always plenty of suppliers for import vehicles and spares

Hi Alan....welcome to the Club It sounds like it is a diverter flap in the dashboard that isn't switching across. Alternatively, ensure that the climate control which separates the driver and passenger temperatures is functioning correctly (consult the manual) Usually, the CR-V is bulletproof but there is a couple of issues with the heating system. Also, if you have had the Airbags replaced then I wonder if any connections came loose on the passenger side? Let us know what you find Cheers, Trevor

Hi Dan Welcome to the Club.....good to have you onboard Cheers, Trevor

Hi Dan It does sound like either an engine or gearbox mounting (which wouldn't show up in an MOT) or it could even be the dual mass flywheel, especially with towing heavy loads. Let us know what you find it to be.

oh, that's an absolute nightmare but I suppose a necessary task to replace the light unit. If you do replace the unit, a few photos and a brief description would be very handy to post up for others to follow if needs be. Thanks, and good luck

I think it just sits in clips from memory....would only use a plastic lever or fingers to prise it down

if it is black plastic then vegetable/sunflower cooking oil rubbed into the plastic is superb....and cheap

I would definitely take the car to the dealer to get a second opinion as 'mayo' under the cap can be caused by condensation from short trips. There are other tests to determine the head gasket is actually failing.

you could always wire in a temporary switch or variable resistor to power the fan to test it or even run it as an over ride

It appears to be a crankcase breather hose which usually fail due to hardening up from oil vapour. Any hose of the same diameter should work. Sorry, cant see what it attaches to so cannot identify it. No, Knock Sensor would not be related

I would look for a vacuum leak first as this can cause the issue you are experiencing

I think you'll find you need to remove the motor assembly to gain access to all the bolts securing the rack to the bulkhead...fiddly job as seen it done on a 4 post lift and looked as though they were struggling with it from underneath