VanDerSnow

my slider pins are new, so should be OK. I replaced both suspension front arms and ball joints, still same issue exists..

Yes, the brakes is my suspicion too. I have received new suspension arms and new ball joints, I will get them replaced and if problem still there, I think it will be down to brakes. I always give few good knocks with a hammer over screwdriver for those two screws. They always stuck. If that doesn't work try using heat gun. If none helps you will have to drill it trough and re-tap.

Thanks for your reply. The rear end on FR-V is adjustable with exception to camber (unless you use aftermarket links set). The full wheel alignment has been done but other than setting steering wheel to 0 position it is still pulling to one side. The most odd thing I find is that the pull is not constant, as in other words if you have bad tracking in pulls to one side with similar force, where in my case it varies so much I sometimes concerned driving it! I have ordered new suspension arms and ball joints, should have them fitted this week if weather's good, but I am pesimistic it will solve the issue. I think it will be the brakes..

Hi all. So I have this FR-V that's causing me headache for a while. It's a 2008 2.2 diesel with 6speed manual gearbox, just over 123k miles. Bought it with few issues that I thought will be easy to fix, but stuck at the moment.. The main issue is that the car is pulling to the left. The odd thing about it is that the pull is not consistent. I.e. in the morning, when you set off there's no noticeable pull, while couple roundabouts later, you really need to hold the steering wheel! Also the steering wheel seems to be easier to turn to left rather than right. Car recently had both front wheel bearings done, new track rod ends, second hand shocks (as I thought mine could be bent, but no effect after the change). The ball joints were showing no play (although quite old), suspension arm bushes do have some tears but far from loose. I fitted new brake discs and pads all round. Calipers looked like they been refurbished or such kit fitted not long time ago (this was probably a year ago). After fitting the brakes, I went for a short 40mile trip and after stopping at services I noticed brakes smelling. Rear ones were binding. I started taking things apart and found that the tricky part is that the caliper is fairly easy to compress back in, but once fitted to the car and brakes applied, they seem to stick. I managed to get all four calipers from another car and swapped only the rear carriers (because mine looked like got too much play). I just had 4 wheel alignment done and the car is still pulling to the left. May worth to note that I do have ABS VSA lights on (normally comes on when brakes applied heavily) due ABS block pressure sensor issue. I had replacement fitted but same issue appears to happen. Now I am running out of ideas, I spoke with the guy who did the alignment, he didn't see anything odd (or obvious) so suggests it may be brakes issue. I put the car up on jacks today, started the engine, spun all wheels and they seemed to be free enough, front is a little bit less easy (probably due transmission) but nothing odd. I then applied brakes and tried spinning wheels again and noticed all wheels, particularly front ones are a lot harder to spin and when you let go only does 1 maybe 1.5 turns. Can this be because of faulty ABS block? I am reluctant to waste money on another second hand ABS unit as the one I purchased was repaired already and supposedly worked fine. Any ideas welcome...

I'd be surprised if flywheel failed. In diesels, yes, many reasons why, But petrol, it's a single mass flywheel and a lot less cranking force. Can't believe it would cost a lot to check too, there should be cover plate between gearbox and the engine which when removed exposes a lot of flywheel. Can be seen in the image below.

Anyone have wiring diagram for power locks by any chance?

So I have this issue that unlock function doesn't always work. Or more like works once in 10-20 attempts. Its the same if you use fob or key in the handle, it turns easily and actuates the doors but then immediately locks again. Once unlocked it locks fine. Is it drivers door lock mechanism that's failing?

Easiest way to do is take multimeter and measure the current between terminal and battery while removing fuses one at a time - if removed fuse doesn't change reading in multimeter put it back and try next one. If none of the fuses help it will need more complex digging..

Did the garage sorted it? Would be surprised if it was flywheel..

The problem I have is that the calliper looks fairly new, possibly recon condition. The piston does not have any rusty spots and would say reasonably tight fit. All seals new. When no fluid inside I can operate the piston quite easily, so not sure if calliper is the issue.. Will try to swap calliper carriers tomorrow and see if issue moves together with it.

Oil pressure sensor is #18 in the image, Honda PN 37240-PHM-003 (code may be different to your engine, I just went for my model). It's located at the front, bottom half of the engine.

Is this diesel engine?

Little update, I checked today that there is no brake distributor and all lines from ABS pump goes directly to the each calliper. I took both wheels off and moved callipers away to the free position (in other words pistons fully compressed in) and noticed by right hand side calliper has a lot more wobble than the other side. Could this be linked to brake binding? Anyone breaking FR-V by any chance?

I don't have FR-V wiring diagram (only got one for the engine) but based on my experience with other cars it may be hazards switch that failed or related wiring. Switch is normally the cause. Easiest would be to try another switch, but if you confident with multimeter it can be diagnosed without buying new parts.

Hello all, I am out of ideas and hoping someone can share their ideas and suggestions. I have an 2008 FR-V 2.2 diesel with under 120k miles but for last couple of years it has been hardly used. I replaced all four brake discs and pads as first thing due all brakes being very rusty, only noticing driver side rear calliper was a bit stiff but managed to compress all cylinders without excessive force. Went on to the road and the stiff calliper started to smell badly and brake disc turned darkish (obvious overheat). I naturally thought calliper seized, so took it apart but only found seal slightly trapped (fitted improperly). May I also note all four callipers looks like they are newish, so must have been refurbished at some point in the past. Replaced the piston seal and put all back together - no effect, still binding. Then due time limitations I assumed it could be sliders that failing, so ordered a set of new sliders. Fitted when they arrived and the brake still binding. Worth to note as soon as you press brake pedal the calliper locks up even during bleeding procedure. Car had tracking but pulls to the left. Handbrake shoes has been replaced too and as soon as I take calliper off the brake disc spins freely, so it's not the handbrake. On top of this I have VSA pressure sensor issue. I have replaced it with second hand unit and it was fine for a week, but now same error code came up recently meaning faulty sensor. I suspect it's not linked to binding brake? Checked all other wheels - no binding at all. Just the passenger side rear. Any suggestions? Something with brake line for this wheel or something I overlooked in the calliper? Tempted to buy new one but wasted enough money already and will need new brake discs/pads too..