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Pee Gee

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Posts posted by Pee Gee

  1. 7 hours ago, Trevor said:

    That's really handy to know.....will look up costs on FedEx later today 🙂
    Bought a back panel (light and thin but width of the car) for my 71 Mustang years back and go hit with a huge bill from UK Customs for import duties which cost more than the panel itself. Saying that, I ordered something from Ford UK and took 5 days, this panel took 4 days from door to door - almost fell over when it turned up so quick 🙂

     

    CR-V components would I imagine be standard across the board in most respects apart from LHD compared to RHD steering/suspension components.
    Beyond that, I would probably compare part numbers but if the same then its got to be cheaper to ship it in sometimes.

     

    As an example, a front control arm for a CR-V is about £40 complete with ball joint and bushes from Rock, so 20% Vat is added to that by FedEx and there's just their shipping charge on that. A strange system but it seems to avoid any other customs charges, unless you have parts posted, then you get clobbered!  You're a lucky man to have owned a 71 Mustang. I once owned a 69 Chevrolet Chevelle in a rare right hand drive, I'd love to have had it later in life when I could afford to run it!

  2. 1 hour ago, Trevor said:

     

    Have been thinking about getting parts for my Harley direct from the states as prices so much cheaper and better range, but not sure on the import duty costs though?

    What makes a huge difference is weight, the heavier the item the more the cost. I ordered my parts from Rockauto and found that if I chose FedEx they would calculate and include taxes so there was nothing else to pay.  As an example, I bought two front upper control arms, the Lexus UK price was £1,114, the TOTAL price I paid including shipping was £93!  Naturally they weren't OEM but the quality was excellent.

    Which brings me to another question. The CR-V is incredibly popular in the US, and Rockauto have an abundance of parts but does anyone know if for instance steering and suspension parts are the same?  I know the engines are different but I'm assuming the rest is the same.  Well worth a look at their site for Honda parts. Things like brake discs are out due to weight but things like control arms and ball joints are much much cheaper.

  3. 20 hours ago, florin_cars said:

     

     

    I like one model only from Lexus but let's say the truth, those forums I believe that are busier because Lexus are more expensive to repair and parts hard to find 😛

    ...unlike Hondas 😄

     

     

     

    Like one FB group admin told me, the posts are going in a black hole and you can't find them anymore.

    To be honest I found Lexus parts easy and cheap to get from the US. Even with shipping and taxes they were a fraction of UK prices.  I do miss my V8 though!

    • Like 1
  4. 7 hours ago, Marisa said:

    Thanks for that.  I'm in Scotland too, so I guess its the weather and the salt, not great for the rust!  I've never had that problem with any other cars before though.  I did ask my mechanic about a rust treatment but he said best for only newer cars as you seal in the problem!  I'd consider it for my next car though.  I'll be checking the history for sure, thanks.  I'll have to hope I'm as lucky with my next buy.

    I used a treatment called Lanoguard, it's really easy to apply although they recommend doing it every year. It's worth looking it up, interesting stuff!

    • Like 1
  5. 2 hours ago, Marisa said:

    Hi

    I was lucky to buy a used Honda CRV 05 plate about 4 years ago for £1800 with 120k on the clock.  I have a good mechanic who has got me through my MOT's and it's been a great car but sadly this last MOT has come up with bad rust under the car and various other serious issues and because of the rust such as brakes and steering on both sides is in danger of collapse, deeming it unworthy of fixing. 

    I live rurally and do drive through a lot of bad surface water due to heavy rains/flooding years round but nothing crazy other than road driving.

    I'm wondering if the CRV is prone to a badly rusting undercarriage to this degree or have I just been unlucky at the end?  

    I'd like to buy another but the prices for CRV's for 2005-2008 seem pretty high given the 165k+ mileage on most (around the £2500-£3k mark) and now I'm wary because of the rust issue.  Does anyone have any advice as to whether it's worth buying a 2005-2008 with mileage over 150k at this time or that just taking too much of a risk of it lasting any more than a year!

    Many thanks for your thoughts.

    (I think I posted this in general by accident and meant to post here, apologies if you see it twice!)

    I haven't heard much about rust on the CR-V but I can tell you I was shocked at the amount under mine which is only 6 years old! I'm guessing it's because it spent most of its time in Scotland but it still surprised me. I've since given it a rust treatment, the body though is immaculate.  I think the important issue is good service history and good MOT history. I see many older CR-V's and they still look in amazing condition.

    • Like 2
  6. Just now, Trevor said:

    Tolerance clearances have changed with the temperature I guess.....at least you'll know how cold it is by the level of noise the car makes 🙂

     

    So it seems I don't need to put the seat heaters on if the dash doesn't buzz loudly!😁 As it happens it didn't happen at all during the summer.

  7. On 12/10/2021 at 8:59 AM, Pee Gee said:

    I have read something similar so hopefully it's normal, it is quite loud sometimes though, although it does go after a short time. Thanks.

    And yesterday which was a mild morning the sound was noticeably quieter, so definitely affected more by the cold.

    • Like 1
  8. 35 minutes ago, Trevor said:

    Unfortunately, florin_cars is correct.

    A lot of people tend to use Facebook as it is easier and more accessible than maybe logging into a forum.

    However, the level of response in a forum is usually likely to be more reliable and accurate than FB along with moderated comments.

    The forums rely on members signing up and also assisting with other members' issues with their cars otherwise the posts tend to go unanswered (for a few days at least).

     

    It's interesting though. I was on a Volvo forum for a while and daily there would be many posts, and I was also a member of a Lexus forum and still lots of daily new posts, even though Lexus are less common.

    • Like 1
  9. On 12/4/2021 at 10:46 AM, Sparkpea said:

    Hi I’m having issues with the brakes on my 2010 crv, hoping someone might be able to shed some light as to what to look at.

    When braking the pedal goes straight to the board with little or no resistance, it slowly brakes. If I pump the brake in preparation to brake then I get resistance and it brakes sooner.

    Brake pipes have been checked for leaks, fluid is ok, mechanic isn’t sure what to try next, he’s thinking master cylinder on the servo or abs pump so I’m trying to help him do a bit of research to see if either have any particular problems or if it’s possibly something else.

    Has anyone experienced this problem before?

    All help and advice appreciated thanks

    Surely if you can pump the brakes it suggests there's air in the system? I've even seen caliper seals puffed up like small balloons, just holding the fluid. Is the mechanic someone you trust?

    • Like 1
  10. Hi all, I've had my 2015 CR-V idtec (2.2) since April, and as the weather has got colder the dash makes some very strange sounds that last for about 45 seconds, this is without starting, just opening the door and sitting down. Does anyone know what it is? It's some sort of electrical sound and seems louder the colder it is! Thanks. Phil.

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