Dannyk Posted March 26, 2019 Posted March 26, 2019 Hi All i am hoping someone can help me. i have an 06 MK11 CRV 2.2 CDTI it has recently developed a knocking noise on the front which i am unable to find the source of nothing cam up on the MOT and i asked them to look hard this isn't the most worrying thing though. When accelerating especially in second i get a strange vibration/wobble coming up through the car. It seems to be when the car is in the power band as the turbo comes on for example. Does the CRV suffer from drive shaft issues or prop bushes? The vibration was defiantly more noticeable when towing. i had the clutch and fly wheel replaced just over a year ago at Honda so i am hoping that it wouldn't be the dual mass as this was a genuine part. Any help is appreciated. Also any common causes for suspension Knock on the front end would be much appreciated Regards Dan
Trevor Posted March 27, 2019 Posted March 27, 2019 Hi Dan It does sound like either an engine or gearbox mounting (which wouldn't show up in an MOT) or it could even be the dual mass flywheel, especially with towing heavy loads. Let us know what you find it to be.
Dannyk Posted March 27, 2019 Author Posted March 27, 2019 Hi there I have got my dad to have go in it and we think it’s the drive shaft on the passenger side as it was doing the same just after the warranty ran out when he bought it from new so we believe it to be that shouldn’t be flywheel as that is only just a year old and I only towed for the first time this weekend just gone will let you know the final outcome 1
Dannyk Posted April 11, 2019 Author Posted April 11, 2019 so after spending nearly £700 on the car i still have a vibration. I had the front N/S drive shaft replaced thinking it was that but the vibration/wobble is still there. i also had the front bush changed on the wishbone both D bushes and while the mechanic was under the car he found a broken rear spring so due to towing he replaced both and had to do the shocks at the same time as he had to cut the old ones off due to the bottom bolts being seized in. oh and i also had to replace front discs and pads so its now like a new car. i am now going to go back to the place i had the tyres fitted and get them re balanced to see if that helps. the only other thing to try i think is the rear diff oil as doing some research this can give the symptoms that i am having has anyone else had this?
Trevor Posted April 11, 2019 Posted April 11, 2019 The rear diff oil gives a clunking noise when turning on a sharp turn at low speed (hard lock left or right going onto a driveway for example) You would then need to change the oil with the special fluid from Honda
Polibon Posted June 27, 2019 Posted June 27, 2019 I just bought an identical car 2006 model 2.2 CDTi last week, and have discovered it has a violent shudder which comes on at 63mph (yes, that exactly) and makes the car feel like if I go any faster it w,ill hurl itself off the road. I call it my speed limiter. But it's a nuisance as it means I am tangled up lorries and get ridiculed by white van drivers. I've had the tyres balanced; no difference at all. The garage insisted tracking wouldn't do that. Been on several other Honda forums (sorry, didn't see this one until now) and some say engine mounts, others insist on the left (nearside) driveshaft and CV joints requiring replacement. So I was about to invest in a new driveshaft go looking for engine mounts when I read this thread. My car has 140k on the clock and I just paid not much more than the figure Dannyk has spent getting nowhere. I see lots of threads where people complain of this issue, but never come back and say they fixed it, or how they did it. I test drove several similar CR-V's but sadly mine was only on small roads so never got up that fast. Others I tested on dual carridgeways made it to 70 just fine, smooth as silk. My car drives beautifully otherwise, I just took it out for another diagnostic run. Brakes: work smoothly (it has new pads all round) form 30 and even an emergency stop doesn't make them chatter, so I'm ruling out the discs being warped. On a smooth stretch of tarmac the shudder isn't as pronounced, and it reduces (almost goes) on a sweeping left hand curve, but traffic meant I couldn't check a right hand turn. The whole car feels jumpy and I wouldn't want to have to make an evasive manoeuvre at that speed. I haven't had the belly pan off yet; hope to do that tomorrow when doing an oil change after a run, so if anyone has suggestions of what to look for or poke at. The tyres are ones I've never heard of at the front Kenda Komet made in China, but it has a Pirelli and a Goodyear on the back. All have about 4mm of tread, so I don't really want to replace them yet. Any thoughts or suggests appreciated. Paul
Dannyk Posted June 27, 2019 Author Posted June 27, 2019 As said above I replaced the drive shaft but to no avail now I have read that they don’t like non genuine shafts but then why would they be sold. Mine is ok at motorway speeds well it’s drivable up to 80 and tows ok so for now I am going to leave it. My dad had the shaft replaced when the car was just out of warranty by the dealer and it fixed the issue the only thing that I can think it might be is the tyres themselves they are Avon’s which are a good brand but the issue only started after I fitted them. So for now I am just going to drive the car and wait till it gets undriveable and then either change it or spend some more money on it but it does what I need it to at the moment sorry I can’t be of more help. As said before it is normally drive shaft
Polibon Posted June 27, 2019 Posted June 27, 2019 I think I will try a new drive shaft and see if it makes any difference. What does it mean when people say these cars don't like pattern parts? Does the car whinge through the speakers? Do they fail in a short time? CV's usually go from contamination. I have replaced several on previous cars and not had an issue with pattern parts. At least it should, improve, fix it, or stay the same, and any of those will tell me something. The Honda one is £400, a pattern one at my local motor factor is £120 and the same brand unit is for sale online for £75 and it comes with 3 years warranty. Bit of a no-contest. Still concerned it may not fix the problem though. Interesting you mention tyres; I could swap the Kenda's for the Pirelli/Goodyear set. Sadly I found the spare is a brand new Michelin on an alloy rim. Tempted to swap that for one of the fronts and see what changes. Too many variables when you get a new old car.
AyGeeWils Posted October 29, 2021 Posted October 29, 2021 I have this problem too - tried all sorts and have now centred on the Propshaft universal joints (getting stiff rather than loose)- and am going to replace and make sure the brake callipers are all free and lubricated. My question is, does anyone know if the Mk2 petrol propshaft is different to the diesel propshaft - I can get a far better price for the petrol one but no one can tell me if they are the same!
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