Trevor

Possible causes could be faulty crankshaft sensor but this would come up with a fault code in memory if scanned. Otherwise the other potential fault is the fuel filter needs replacement (on the earlier ones you could tell if this was the case as the pump up rubber bulb by the filter would feel soft but when it was pumped the pressure would be felt as the bulb firmed up and the engine would start fine for a while

I would start with any switches that are located in the roof mechanism and in particular the boot area which would sense if there is an obstruction (e.g. shopping) and there is enough space for the roof to retract

Hi....welcome to the Club I can see what you're saying but to be fair most cars all the look like their from the same mould nowadays The Jazz does however (in my mind) have the technological advancements that some other manufacturers do not and are always sought after so resale is normally superb if you don't like it https://www.honda.co.uk/cars/new/jazz-hybrid/jazz-hybrid-coming-soon.html

I thing maybe down to programming it. Seem to recall something like - Ignition on while holding down button till the window drops all the way down. Switch off then just touch the button once to go down rather than holding it down for the duration.....or something like that?

The only time I have experienced something like this before was when I replaced an alternator many years ago and baffled me as to why the battery light stayed on at idle speed. Simple answer was wrong size pulley and the alternator wasn't spinning enough speed at idle to switch the regulator to charge.

You can advertise it in the For Sale section of this forum if you want https://uk.hondaownersclub.com/forums/forum/58-hondas-for-sale/

Try this company https://www.iceboxauto.com/honda-in-car-entertainment-systems-category

I know that with some video connections to your phone the car needs to either have the engine off or at least the handbrake on for the system to know the vehicle is stationary. Also the phone may have a setting to know that you are in a car but wanting to watch video but doesn't know you're not the driver so look at these settings first

Thanks for the update BAZZER RN 1 lets hope that does the job

I don't know that garage personally but have heard good things. It would also be wise to get the rear diff oil changed sometimes as this is a common thing with CR-V's where you get a clunking from the rear diff when you turn hard left or right at slow speed. Special Honda oil unfortunately but easy enough job to replace and makes a world of difference

sounds like a defective alternator or the wiring is the fault?

Just up the road then! That would be interesting to know if it makes any difference, it could do if the level is low Where are you taking it? Poole or Brockenhurst?

I'm sure there are plenty of others out there with the CR-V....a truly wonderful Honda model capable of traversing the pothole-ridden roads of Dorset I'm based near Ringwood so not too far away I imagine

I totally agree with you, sometimes shock tactics are the only thing that work. I will move this post to the General Chat section where more members will hopefully see it....and maybe even respond!

Well said Barrie...this is something that needs encouraging across this site, and could result in a quite a buzzing Owners Club forum

Maybe worth trying Honda first to see how much and also availability?

Hi Starbecks ....welcome to the Club Wow! you guys really like your Honda's then Can't really go wrong with the brand, so reliable compared to most other vehicle makes

Hi Ani ..... welcome to the Club It would be a shame to write off the car for panel damage that a skilled panel beater may be able to repair Worth finding an old-school panel beater who may be able to pull/beat it out rather than replacing any panels Let us know how you get on with it

Hi silver dream racer .... welcome to the Club I take it that your Civic is silver in colour then?

That's an odd one. As is the case with some manufacturers such as Volkswagen, the lights on one side will stay on when the indicator is switched to either side. In this case I don't think that is the issue, more likely it has sustained accident damage or something where there is a wire trapped or short-circuit to somewhere providing power (e.g. the wire trapped along with it. I would remove the headlamp and look to see what is occurring with the wiring behind it as a good starting point I'm not sure what those wires are for but I would have a look to see if there are any corresponding places for them to clip into and go from there

Yes, thats the problem nowadays as most garages don't understand the concept of exhaust emissions. It either passes the MOT set emissions or it doesn't I have seen many garages dispose of perfectly good oxygen sensors because they failed (or couldn't be bothered to see the relevance) to notice an exhaust leak which draws air to the sensor which then overfuels and 'hey presto' there is your problem. I have sometimes measure the oxygen level after fitting a new exhaust to see that there is no leaks present and the repair has been done properly, takes all of 2 to 3 minutes as the emissions machine is running all day on standby. Sorry, rant over but motor vehicle fundamentals seem to have been completely forgotten over the past 10 to 20 years and replacement of perfectly good (and expensive) components seem to be the name of the game. most MOT emissions analysers have a 'Pre-MOT Test' function in the background where you can run it to check 5 gas and Lambda readings prior to testing for the MOT but not many people would use it or know its there or even understand the readings and how they determine the actual faults

Thank you BAZZER RN 1 for your post and one which hits the nail on the head quite frankly. Unfortunately, this Honda forums does tend to have many 'lurkers' and not many 'responders'. I always try to answer where and when I can but there is very little in the way of interaction like that of some other forums. So, if any other members out there feel they would like to interact then please jump in with your experiences, knowledge or anything that brings something to the table. This is a forum for the members so feel free to join in

Not sure without seeing absolute read outs on the emissions Needless to say, if the HCs were high then this is unburnt fuel particles which cause the cat to run hot and even burn out completely. If this is the case with the old cat then it would not be fit for reuse but the same could happen to the replacement one. This is why it is important to get a proper emissions check (CO, CO2, HC, O2, Lambda) and this will tell you exactly what the failure is

Sounds crazy but do you think the vibration is coming from the engine rather than the transmission or drivetrain? Crankshaft pulleys are known to break up (can tell as there will be vibration and movement on the outer part of the pulley with the engine running) and if so then this may be transmitting at a more severe rate through the vehicle. A way of telling is to remove the drivebelt and see if there is a difference but would not recommend at high speed as no power steering and other ancillary items would be operating (e.g. alternator, etc)

I would imagine there should be two adjusters one for height the other for lateral beam positioning both on the headlamps (engine bay side) but may also be accessible from the front of the headlamps with an allen key or screwdriver Also, check the interior for rotary switch to adjust the height for load carrying