Trevor

Thanks for the update and doesn't sound too bad if the car had a lookover as well.

You could buy an immobilise unit from eBay which should come with keys and barrel locks, etc Not too expensive and not too difficult to fit and no need to reprogramme

I would be tempted to start by increasing the tyre pressures by at least 2 or 3 psi on all the wheels to see if this puts the light out. Also, check and inflate them when the tyres are cold and using a reputable gauge to measure the pressures

are the tyre sizes correct and the same across the vehicle? also take into account wear on all of them - are they even?

It could be you need a new pollen filter and also that there is a grommet or something missing on the bulkhead which is allowing fumes to enter the cabin area

It could be one of a few things.... Starter motor 'growly' if worn due to on/off starting using stop/start Worn Dual Mass Flywheel - another component that will be affected by stop/start Worn clutch release bearing - as above due to keeping clutch pedal depressed to start up

Look for the sensor going to the gearbox, probably find it on the top somewhere

It should reset once the fault is rectified as the readings are taken and if all okay then the system powers up, if not then ABS/VSC stays offline. I would check the rear sensors first and go from there. Check the connections first as this may be the cause rather than a faulty sensor

Hi, welcome to the Club Great choice for a winter car, I also have a BMW (Z3) as a summer car as well. I would say that this is quite normal as the diesel engine is quite a large unit for the Civic and just doesn't get as hot as a petrol equivalent. I wouldn't worry too much about it and at least its not the opposite end of the spectrum and showing too hot

It does sound like a sensor recalibration is required. A competent mechanic with the correct software/scantool can reset the system if the DPF has successfully regenerated

Pompey Andy That's a bonus! 🙂

reminds me of the Y2K issues that were supposed to happen, but didn't. maybe slightly delayed by 22 years 🙂 Apparently they have recalled vehicles in US but not in the UK as yet

I would be tempted to put a reserve or high starting price on it to sell through eBay....if it doesn't meet the reserve it doesn't sell but at least you will gauge interest and get a market value for it. The other option is to take it to a specialist car auction and they can value it and sell if for you at the best price

I said exactly the same thing a few years ago .... "I should have come to Honda years ago" but didn't feel as though I was ready for it then (older generation choice possibly?)

Hi Milojamo ...welcome to the Club Always a better option to spend less time on Social Media nowadays Good to have you onboard!

Hi hughezee ....welcome to the Club Great to have you onboard, especially with your Honda knowledge....thank you also for offering to help out with answering members' problems. Good to have you onboard!

Exactly what has been occurring here and other sites.....there seems to be very little to be gained from linking with Facebook nowadays. Not only that but the Facebook content is mostly unreliable and not based on true fact or science, and more like throwing darts at a diagnostic chart which leads to parts unnecessarily being replaced

This is very true but I think it may have had its day now so maybe forums will come back once more?

🙂

Mopar muscle for me! would love a 1969/70 Challenger or Charger 440 or 426 Hemi..... .....note to oneself - play the lottery tonight 🙂

So the trick is to not have it posted but sent by FedEx courier instead? Did not know that, that's where I was going wrong then. A 69 Chevelle, holy moly !!! would love one of those....in fact any early American Muscle Car would be ideal now

Probably the best and most economical way to drive it

Yes agree! Had a few Honda bikes over the years and as you say they are equally as good quality

That's really handy to know.....will look up costs on FedEx later today 🙂 Bought a back panel (light and thin but width of the car) for my 71 Mustang years back and go hit with a huge bill from UK Customs for import duties which cost more than the panel itself. Saying that, I ordered something from Ford UK and took 5 days, this panel took 4 days from door to door - almost fell over when it turned up so quick 🙂 CR-V components would I imagine be standard across the board in most respects apart from LHD compared to RHD steering/suspension components. Beyond that, I would probably compare part numbers but if the same then its got to be cheaper to ship it in sometimes.

It may be that the screen is not fully closed. Maybe keep a gentle pressure on the open button whilst very gently applying some leverage to open it at the same time (fingernail behind the screen panel and just enough pressure to depress the button)? If not, then power down the battery and reconnect which may default the screen to reset and open