Trevor

Yes it does, and also the Air Con control unit needs resetting You can do a hard-reset by disconnecting the battery for a period of time but if you follow this procedure it should read the codes then remove them once reviewed to reset the system General Troubleshooting Information21-4 How to Retrieve a DTC The Heater Control Panel has a self-diagnosis function. Running the Self-diagnosis Function Turn the ignition switch OFF. Turn the fan switch OFF, the temperature control dial on Max Cool and the mode control dial on Vent. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), then press and hold the recirculation control switch. Within 10 seconds while holding the switch down, press the rear window defogger switch five times. The recirculation indicator blinks two times, then the self-diagnosis will begin. If there is any problem in the system after self-diagnosis is finished, the recirculation indicator will blink the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 7 through 13 when problems in the evaporator temperature sensor circuit are detected (codes 14 and 15), the A/C indicator will blink the DTC. If no DTC's are found, the indicator will not blink.

Mileage is hard to specify as it depends on driving style

Hi Anthony....welcome to the Club Good luck with the conversion, keep us updated on how it goes as it is quite a good base car to work with. Good to have you onboard!

Hi....welcome to the Club https://www.gov.uk/check-vehicle-e10-petrol Click through to the Government website and search your vehicle to see if it is compatible to run on E10

The emissions they need to check are via the pre-mot test emissions check....specifically looking for Oxygen levels which should be as near to zero as possible (anything higher is suggesting drawing oxygen post-catalytic converter which will cause the problem.

Cat system efficiency below threshold is usually associated with a difference in reading between sensor 1 and sensor 2. Sometimes the cat could be blocked/damaged and not allowing flow but if you have a new cat then this would not be the issue. The other possible cause could be there is an airleak between the joints on the cat (new gaskets should have been fitted after the flanges were cleaned up). You can block the end of the exhaust with a rag and with the engine running (outside in fresh air) if you hear a hissing from any part of the exhaust system then this will be the air leak causing it to draw unregulated air into the cat.

about £300 to £350

Ask the garage to look at the relays (which should be in the fusebox under the bonnet) and swap it over for another one.....marked Delphi and black in colour I believe

I put a Tuning Box on my CR-V 2.2 cdti and it gave it much more acceleration and smoothness in driving but the trade off was the clutch slipping when the power is put down. The clutch plate is fine and not worn but the pressure plate is an auto-adjust type and the power would cause the clutch adjustment ramp to go over the threshold and relieve the pressure on the driven plate causing it to slip. If you didn't plant the power on all in one go then it was fine but beware, the CR-V isn't meant to be fast and there is a trade off

Hi Andy Sorry to hear the CR-V is playing up after all this time of being very reliable. I would not imagine it to be a CV joint (which should also be replaceable as a separate unit and not the whole shaft) It may be something internal in the transmission and may benefit from a fluid and filter change

I would agree with @ToddBonzalez It is more than likely the A/C system relay at fault

E10 should be fine for use in the short term You can check it here: https://www.gov.uk/check-vehicle-e10-petrol

The mileage doesn't matter then as the time is overdue for replacement (as rubber components degrade over time)

I think ToddBonzalez is referring to the clutch on the air conditioning compressor - can you hear a rather loud clunking noise when engaging the air con?

Timing belts replacement periods are based on mileage and also time. Mostly it is 60k miles and 5 years but worth checking when yours was last replaced and if unsure then change it regardless

That's very true! there are cameras everywhere nowadays so no avoiding them

Hi Charles...welcome to the Club Glad you are happy with your new Honda As you say, there is a vast variety of clever functions throughout the vehicle. Some of which is selectable and others are passive but either way it definitely enhances safety and driver convenience. Good to have you onboard!

Thanks for the update Neil Keep us updated on anything interesting you find over time, I'm sure other functions will slowly become apparent over time

I have had this problem in the past and had to adapt my speech (talking slower) to see if that made any difference....it did and also then accepted some choice words which also worked 🙂

How many sensors did they have listed for it and can they be interchanged (if the same part number) so you can try the other sensors if faulty

I think there is a post in the forums that covered this some time ago. Try a search (top right corner of screen) and see what's there

Sounds like the belt is shredding as either the alternator or the air con compressor are seized. You will need to remove the belt and see which pulley is not rotating.

May be the only option as done it in the past as long as you have a replacement one to hand

Hi Jeff....welcome to the Club I would probably go from the part number and see which others share the same compressor. Find the number and put it in an eBay search and hopefully should list other models with this pump fitted

Hi Mark.....welcome to the Club Chances are it may be the belt slipping or broken. Also, when I have stored up cars over the years then the alternator can seize which is evident by the belt slipping and burning smell. Worth seeing it the belt is in good condition then running the engine to see if the alternator pulley is rotating then go from there with electrical checks on the alternator connections