Pompey Andy

How about have the rear diff oil changed, that's normally about 60K miles. About £100 at the garage but may be worth asking for it to be done before you buy. My 2011 CRV is just coming up to 116K and it needs it's front struts changed, that's the only issue I have had. Oh forgot about the firmware update. I had an issue with the car cutting out randomly, this was found to be a software update, been fine since.

Falken tyres are good mid range for wear, I do 30,000 a year and last over a year.

I had a 2010 Accord 2.2 CDTI Tourer. 80K on the clock when I bought it, had it 5 years 257K when I got rid of it. Only let it go because the exhaust filter light came on and the wife no longer wanted to drive our CR, I could have had the filter cleaned for a £120. Other than that everything worked perfectly, all electrics, air con, great sound system, electric tail working fine as well which was an issue on the early ones. Below is a list of the things that I did have to change. The manifolds on these were two parts welded and they would leak, but most were changed by Honda under warranty. Both front struts after 140K One front wheel bearing and both back ones. Be careful with the front ones as they have a brake warning sensor that can snap when being removed, £200 from Honda only. Small concertina type exhaust pipe at the rear of the engine, a bugger to get to so £700 to repair due to labour costs. Just the other bug bear of mine the front headlamp bulb replacement, due to 30K a year had to replace at least once a year, and don't have the longest arms 😞 Other than that great, you'll enjoy your Accord.

Hi Trevor yeah all safe in the family, but the wife has lost her father and her best friends mother to the virus. Hope you and yours are all well. I had Nexans on the Accord 30K no problem, so may give them a try. A tyre shop in Farlington have Bridgestones for £110 each if you buy two, they are normally £135. Take care Andy

Gonna need some new tyres for the CRV soon ☹️, it seems to eat the front ones. I have Dunlops on all round, anyone suggest a cheaper alternative that is just as good.

I'm lucky and still working as I work at a Data Centre, but has to be Elbow for me for easy driving, then Annie Mac on Radio One Friday night on the way home. Party

What mileage have you done, and do you think it has been towing a caravan, not often springs snap is it

He currently has a 1500 Civic, do you think he'll notice the difference. He was looking at the Hyundai i30N as he didn't like the boy racer fin. But when he visited the Honda showroom the salesman told him about the new Type R

I'm so jealous my colleague at work has put his name down for a new Type R, more suited for the older gent as it doesn't have the boy racer spoiler. Apparently it has been lowered to compensate for the spoiler, it looks the dogs.

Hi Simon, I agree with Trevor try the CRV great family car for young and older children. Loads of room, all the gadgets and very reliable.

As Trevor says there maybe a CD stuck in there. There are loads of tips on the web and youtube about how to get stuck cd's out. Thin knife with electrical tape wrapped around it the wrong way for instance.

Mind you I was surprised that there was no indicator light to warn me rather than the scraping noise, but now know. Is it the same for the front brakes. Cheers Andy

Hi Trev, you were correct it was new pads and discs as the were below the minimum as well. £303 all in so not too bad and the first time I have had to change them since I got the car. I had the rear diff fluid changed at 65K as I was getting vibration on the steering wheel.

DA, have just started getting a metallic scraping noise from the rear nearside when turning right. It's going in tomorrow as they said it might be the brake rear plate scratching. Do the 2011 CRV's have brake sensors on them, and the other strange thing is when I apply the brake it stops the grinding noise. May be a wheel bearing I guess it has 92K on the clock.

Hi Guys, I once asked about LEDs bulbs but was told by the guy in Halfords that it wasn't a god idea to fit them retrospectively as it will mess around with the car sensors. Not sure if that is the case.

Just an update the car has been fine with no incidents, have 1 tank Shell, then 1 Supermarket and all good. I fill up every 3 days so will be reaping both the Nectars and the Shell loyalty points. It's on an app now so just show them the Shell barcode on your phone and its logged that you've been in.

Well I have had 3 days now with the Supermarket diesel and all good, but will be using Shell in the future. I agree Trevor there is always a raised heartbeat and fingers crossed when I'm in the outside lane overtaking a line of trucks, but I'm sure the confidence will come back.

Hi Trevor, the Italian tune up was done a couple of weeks back. The car has been fine since the last stop on the Monday of the software update. I have put Supermarket fuel in this week though just to try and pinpoint the issue.

I put Esso in last week and my issue with the cutting out stopped, but put Supermarket in this week to see if it was that causing the issue, will let you know. That was 5p a litre more though in the Esso, the local Shell is only 2p more so will be Shell from now on if they keep it that price.

Good Morning All, just wondering if anyone has had issues using supermarket diesel rather than a brand name such as Esso or Shell. I know the brands claim that their diesel has better cleaning agents and you should get better mpg, but is that the case. Any suggestions

Car was good again last night on the way home so I didn't put it in the garage, and was fine this morning. One thing I did do Monday was top up at an Esso garage rather than the Sainsbury's, bit more expensive but the diesel should be better.

It has been fine Tuesday and fine this morning 😀, hope it stays that way.

Hi Sensescaper, you do not need to take the bumper off, you need to turn the wheels fully to the left or the right depending on what side your changing, remove the inner wheel arch lining and reach in through there. I agree it's not easy and you need fairly long arms but that's the way in. if you have the manual it tells you how to do it in there. I used to do 30K a year in my 2010 Accord Tourer and would have to change the bulbs at least once a year, so worth buying the expensive bulbs rather than the cheap ones. Got 257K out of mine, before chopping it in, a great car. Everything still worked and was still getting 48 mpg on my commute, same clutch same exhaust.

The guys in the garage looked up on the Honda Service page and apparently it needed a software update, so £54 for an hours labour. Great Saturday, but Sunday it did it. Nothing on the way to work Monday, but did it on the way home. Fine this morning. Back in Thursday for another look.

Postponed till Friday will update then. No issue this morning but doesn't seem to do it when the engine management light is on already, which is strange.