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Baz

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Posts posted by Baz

  1. 10 minutes ago, Trevor said:

    Sorry, should state the procedure is for resetting the AC system.

    The engine management will require a code reader capable of resetting the light

    Plenty of cheap ones out there that run off bluetooth through your mobile phone

    Here's one from eBay ELM327

    no problem, the engine management light goes out as soon as engine starts just the PGMFI stays on

  2. first i tried what it says in the handbook, start engine turn off wait 30 seconds and repeat 3 times no effect PGMFI still stays on, next i tried the method you have described and tried it 4 times with no effect no codes etc showing at all PGMFI still on the vehicle seems to run ok so still scratching my head.

  3. On 8/16/2021 at 3:59 PM, Trevor said:

    Yes it does, and also the Air Con control unit needs resetting

     

    You can do a hard-reset by disconnecting the battery for a period of time but if you follow this procedure it should read the codes then remove them once reviewed to reset the system

     

    General Troubleshooting Information21-4
    How to Retrieve a DTC
    The Heater Control Panel has a self-diagnosis function.

    Running the Self-diagnosis Function
    Turn the ignition switch OFF.

    Turn the fan switch OFF, the temperature control dial on Max Cool and the mode control dial on Vent.

    Turn the ignition switch ON (II), then press and hold the recirculation control switch. Within 10 seconds while holding the switch down, press the rear window defogger switch five times. The recirculation indicator blinks two times, then the self-diagnosis will begin. If there is any problem in the system after self-diagnosis is finished, the recirculation indicator will blink the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 7 through 13 when problems in the evaporator temperature sensor circuit are detected (codes 14 and 15), the A/C indicator will blink the DTC. If no DTC's are found, the indicator will not blink.

    would this method apply to a 2007 CRV ICDTI 2.2

  4. On 6/8/2021 at 10:21 AM, Trevor said:

    Hi.....welcome to the Club

     

    I believe it may be a battery charge issue which would cause the subsidiary systems to not be active until the battery voltage is showing as sufficient.
    Worse case scenario, replace the battery for a  new quality branded one

    but surely if there is enough power in the battery to start the car and then to restart it again i would have thought the battery should be ok as there  is more power drawn from the battery to start the vehicle than is needed to operate other systems. just my thoughts.

  5. sorry dont have any pics but it was in daytona yellow with black bonnet and wing tops now we are talking 1972 ish 0- 60 6.2sec 132mph flat out on the standard engine balanced and blue printed  re-jetted carb lowed and uprated suspension flattened rear springs bot could that thing corner or what when i worked for a lotus dealer before i bought the capri it was in the line up for sale a chap came in one day looking at the cars bragging about his E Type our boss said i've got something to beat that  the guy laughed when he saw it so they lined up side by side on the lane the capri left him standing and was gone, will never forget that so i traded my Scimitar 3ltr GTE in and bought it, i could go on about another car i modified that left the plod standing lol

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  6. something is discharging to earth running the battery down make sure you have everything turned off i had this problem a few years ago and thought the battery was suspect still the same problem after fitting a new one this was not on a Honda i traced it back through elimination and found it to be the rear wiper motor was seizing up and NOT parking properly WD40 did the trick

  7. what is the recommended oil for a 2007 i-ctdi i keep seeing 0-20 0-30 5-30 fully synthetic i can understand 0-20 0r 030 on a newish model but when a vehicle as done 140,000 miles plus i would have thought 5-30 would be a better option, advice welcome.

  8. no never been used for towing 3 owners before me one was a lady and car was ex lease hire, heated seat fuse is not blown so thats ok, was not aware the seats only work when sat on but will check the  circuits and make sure theres no problem there.

  9. checked heated rear window fuse under bonnet thats  ok and tried to get the relays out from under drivers seat, and what a game that is even with seat in its highest position with the relay loom uncliped holding the plastic clips in just cannot shift the relays think i may unbolt the seat and tip it back so i can get more room to shift the wretched things, its possible they are frozen in the sockets.

  10. just noticed both the heated seats are not working checked the fuse that is ok seems rather strange both are not working, anyone any ideas on this ? not checked the relays but would be rather odd that all four relays have given up the ghost.

  11. cheers for the info Andy i do know from the MOT advisory that the N/S front and rear struts have just a bit of misting around them so will replace them at some point, also noticed the gear change is a bit lumpy and when changing from 5th to 4th sometimes hit 2nd gear also noticed the heated seats appear not to be working so must have a look and see why that is otherwise very happy with it the car has done 138,000 miles and was a lease hire vehicle and had some recalls according to paperwork, oh and had a knew clutch fitted not long before i bought it that was one of the reasons why i decided to buy it.

  12. new to this site, just bought a 2007 CRV 2.2 EXI-CTDI anyone have one and how do you rate them and any known issues, also what is the correct engine oil for this model i believe this model does Not have DSP.

    Regards all

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

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