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Picked my advance aqua topaz up a few days ago and although the handover was problematic I’m enjoying the car. I’ve just taken it on a short break and driving experience was good. I’m finding the steering a bit lighter than the Hrv which makes for a more pleasant driving experience. I like the large screen which divides into three separate areas and seems user friendly. The drivers seat adjustment is now electronic and I found it difficult to get the perfect position….just a small niggle. Early days but don’t think I will regret the change.

Just got my 2004 Honda Civic IMA Hybrid Saloon. Nice leather interior with the Executive trim.

Hi to all members new and old. Thought it was time to sign up to this forum being a Honda owner for many years. Anyway a little bit on me First Honda - 1997 CRV - 2.0l stick shift ( hooked on Honda's after that) Prelude 2.0l - 2001 Various CRV's - 2005 onwards Various Civic's - 2004 onwards inc a Type R 2009 HRV - 2003 Accord 2007 and 2009 Currently running a Jazz 1.4 Si model 2010 - Bought in Sep last year with 91k on , one previous owner , FSH . Initially as a stop gap car when my previous one had to go back to finance company , but you know what love this little car , cheap to fuel and cheap to run , carried four adults with luggage for weekends away. Recently got the air con gassed and still returns around 45+ mpg when running around town with it full on. Just serviced it , and sailed through it's MOT with 2 advisories - bulbs for licence plate and slight blow on exhaust. So to date I have spent £20 on new wipers and £40 on air con. Never had such low cost running vehicle. Work to do: Replace front pipe on exhaust Replace rear wiper blade Replace both licence plate light fittings( after replacing the bulbs I could see the plastic clips are broken on both sides and both lights the lights themselves were just about hanging in so had to hold in with some industrial tape for now ) As you can tell I am a Honda fanatic ha ha Jay

Is everyone with a EN:Y1 aware there is a software update at your dealer to update the charging of the vehicle, not sure what it is for exactly but getting it done this Friday. Possibly to cure faults arising following fast charge...

Purchased new in April 2003, just clocked 166,000 miles! I am one of a dwindling number of Stream owners I guess, used to see a few running around but very rare now. The most reliable car I have ever owned, although I guess my previous vehicles were not at all comparable! Started off learning to drive in a Ford Escort Mk3. Briefly took lessons in a Mini (original style) but soon back to the Escort. First car I owned was an Austin Allegro 1500HL. I know these have a bad reputation but the transverse OHC engine was a doddle to maintain and apart from squeaky hydro-gas suspension and a thirst for oil, it ran rather well actually. A big boot on it but a letterbox opening to it! All I could manage on a meagre salary. Built in 1979, it was six years old when I bought it, and it lasted three years until it got written off in an accident. Next car was not a stunner either. Morris Ital (a restyled Marina) from 1981, it was seven years old when I bought it as the third owner. A bit of a dinosaur of a car with niggling issues although it ran ok. Was not comfortable at speed though and a bit of a bus! Had that car for four years before I sold it to a Marina enthusiast and I believe it was scrapped a year or two later. I then bought a one year old Rover 214SLi which has 20,000 miles on it and owner by Rover Fleet Management. A nice car, ran well but the K series engine had its usual head gasket problems. It did open my eyes to Honda though, as I saw the Concerto version as a superior version of the same car. Head gasket replaced at 65,000 miles and I had the car until I bought the Stream in 2003, and then my wife had it for three more years until the head gasket went again at 125,000 miles and we scrapped it and my wife bought a three-year old Honda Jazz with just 14,000 miles on it and one previous owner in 2006. Now, the Jazz is still running, but has gone through a couple of exhausts but nothing else wrong with it. A nice little runner and ULEZ compliant so living just outside Greater London it has survived the Sadiq Khan Cull. But the Stream has soldiered on and has been driven all over the country, up to Scotland a few times, down to Devon and Cornwall many more times, all over East Anglia, the Midlands and South West. Its been in Wales too! It still has the original stainless steel exhaust I asked for as an optional extra when I bought the car. Faults are few but the Stream has served me well. The are only two times I needed to call out the AA was once when I was running the air-conditioning whilst working on my laptop in the car at a car park and was not running the engine (it was a very hot day) and I drained the battery, and the other time was when I foolishly rushed through a flood of water and filled a cylinder with water! When the AA came to my aid he towed me out and helpfully removed the drenched air filter and the spark plugs. I was then told to turn the engine and it was rather odd seeing water being ejected from the plugs like fountains! Once he got it running again he joked that I had a Honda Steam as the exhaust was chugging out the condensate. A rough ride home with the check engine light on, but a new air filter and a short run to check all was ok and it was. I have the K20A1 1998cc engine which is a really good performer, but i was having a spot of bother with the check engine light coming on now and again. Using my Autolec D519 ODM I was able to find out that I had a misfire on one cylinder, so I changed the plugs and caps and that cleared that up, but then I was getting a knock sensor fault with an occasional additional catalytic convertor performance warning. I had been using 95 RON petrol as regular fuel in this car, with 97 RON sometimes when doing the hills on holiday trips. However, this fault emerged after a year of using the newer E10 95 RON blended fuel and I suspected that there was some rough running due to the lower grade of fuel. After using a few doses of Redex to clean the fuel system and the injectors, and using E5 fuel instead, good performance was restored and no further warnings came up. Went through the MOT no worries and, like the Jazz, although both are considerably older than many of the cars that are now banned from London unless the ULEZ charge is paid, these cars remain compliant because Honda had the wisdom to achieve better performance well in advance of the new regulations. I knew this when I bought the car but back in 2003, when ULEZ was not on the horizon. I am convinced that, so long as the bodywork holds up, the engine will pass 200,000 comfortably and if I still have the car in April 2028 it will be a veteran of 25 years with one careful, very satisfied, owner. I have seen comments on YouTube that if you have a car with a K20 engine you should never sell it because it will just go on, and on, and on. It's true! I certainly will consider Honda for my next car, and quite like the CR-V and the Civic models, but I am impressed with the Jazz and its Crossstar variant too, which my wife and I took out on a test drive a few months back. I know combustion engines are under threat, but if I do change I think I am likely to choose a plug-in hybrid as that will mean I can drive electric for most short journeys and not be range restricted for the longer drives across the UK and parts of Europe.

Hi there, I'm selling my much loved DC5, it's absolutely stunning and if you're in the market for a DC5 I strongly expect this is one of the very best out there. I really want the car to go to another enthusiast, someone who will look after it as well as myself. https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/18463363 Thanks for looking.

Hello, I live in Cornwall and recently acquired a 2012 1.4 Honda Jazz. I had a couple of Accords back in the 80’s and quite a few Honda bikes.

Just purchased 1999 HRV in immaculate condition with only 28,000 verified miles. Only issue is when initially pulling off the car shudders/vibrates occasionally but only for a few seconds then drives perfectly. I've heard comment of transmission fluid and filter? Is that possible?

I would start by checking the gearbox oil and see if there is enough in there and maybe consider replacing the oil? Another way to avoid the crunching is the using the old method known as double declutching. Or even a slight blip on the throttle on downshifting can also work to eliminate the gear crunching

I have had recalls sorted free of charge at my local honda dealer and they normally check the car over to make sure everything works as it should.

Hi, I have just found this site and joined. I purchased a ENY:1 recently, so I'm really interested in other owners experiences and opinions.

i had the same problem on my 2009 crv and i cleared it by removing the nozzle and attaching my electric tyre pump to hose with a adapter used to inflate airbeds and blowing air back towards the wash bottle.it cleared my line and i haven't had a problem since.hope this helps as got to be easier than removing all the panels to get to the hose.

The statement you make about charging; "All-electric and plug-in hybrid models will gain further functionality, allowing users to remotely schedule vehicle charging to meet their needs, as well as pre-heating or pre-cooling the cabin via the AC system prior to a journey." Not true, you cannot schedule a charge for the ENY:1 using the Honda + App, you can start and stop a charge only.

Hi all, just purchased my second CRV, only had the last one for around 11 months, well impressed thought i would like a hybrid to try. Tried a 21 plate ex, loved it, and thought you know what this is for me, so yep bought it. Just one point, the car has folding door mirrors which i work manually from the door switch. Is there a way to automatically fold them when i lock the car with the remote? Anyway she's a brilliant car, called yeah yeah you guessed, Hondo. Bye all have a great time with your "Hondo's" atb Dave

Trevor Many thanks for your response. I think I will leave it for a few days until the temperature rises above 0° C. The cold makes the plastic very tough to handle. I will certainly get back to you when I've done the job. Thanks again. Ray

I would be tempted to remove the cover from the inside of the tailgate and see if you can secure the trim from behind (maybe a self tapping screw would be sufficient to hold it)

Apologies - double post due to browser crash. Paul

Hi Simon, got the same problem did you get to the bottom of it?

Going back to my squeaky clutch I've found it's my boots that I where for dogging!! NO not that kind !! driving to where I walk and train my dogs

Not sorted it's gone back to its habit of turning the non-charge schedule OFF for no reason. It's going in to dealer Jan

Right....... A bit of history of said LEGend.... Vehicle was originally purchased new from B & H Motors, 1460 High Road, London. First registered 8th August 1997 to the gentleman I purchased the car from on 15th October 2024, so some 27 years in the same ownership. Colour is Eucalyptus Pearl green (colour code G-83P) with Black leather interior. Spec of these are pretty good, 4 electric windows ( 2 of them work but we will come back to that later), electric sunroof, climate control, 6 disc cd changer, heated front seats, remote central locking, plenty of airbags, traction control, cruise control etc. Which for a ’97 model car I don’t think is to bad. It’s got service history right from its PDI on 7th August 1997, first service carried out 21st August 1998 with 4167 miles, next on the 18th September 1999 with 10149 miles, 7th August 2000 with 16588 miles to include coolant and brake fluid change, 4th August 2001 with 22296 miles, 20th July 2002 with 28028 miles to include coolant change, brake fluid change and cambelt, 4th August 2003 with 36302 miles, 21st July 2004 with 40635 miles, 19th July 2007 with 45599 miles, 23rd July 2008 with 46628 miles, 28th July 2009 with 48026 miles, 1st August 2010 with 49156 miles. That’s when the odometer failed.. but service’s carried on annually from independent garages (invoices supplied). During 2007 the owner moved jobs/retired so the Legend wasn’t doing journeys to London for work so was used to ‘potter’ about. As mentioned, a hand written note stated the rough mileage over the years since the odometer failed. If this is correct then the car has ticked over 63k miles. Will only know the true mileage once the odometer is fixed, apparently the mileage is stored in the ‘brain’. Last 3 years he has only used it to go from his house to church twice a week (12 miles) and the local Sainsburys once a week (5 miles)…. The original handbook is present and correct, still has the original Honda supplying dealer business card. Every MOT certificate is in the file along with lots of invoices! Regarding the number plate, when registered it was assigned R274 VLW, which could only have stayed on the car for a short while because its 1st MOT has the plate LIL 2***, this number is on his wifes car today! In 2012, the number plate it has on today M16 BUP was assigned/registered to it. He told me the story of said plate. His grandchildren purchased the cherished plate for him as a present, the significance of the plate is M (he was born in May), 16 (was born on the 16th) and BUP because they used to call him Buppy when they were children! I’m very tempted to put the original plate back on the car and give him back the M16 BUP on a retention certificate. Wow, didn’t realise I could waffle on so much! Apologies and if you have read this far, thank you. Have I missed anything out on it’s history? To be continued………

Will do, i'll do some before and after pics

Oil levels are spot on, that was my first guess, going to change the oil filter and see if that solves it, if not I think it's going to be the oil pump 🤦

I wonder if it is an 'average' fuel consumption meter and has settled down after a mixed driving style if you reset it then it may go back to the actual consumption figure Alternatively, a service may be due and the engine oil quality can contribute to a decrease in economy if the cylinder compressions are reduced with the oil not sealing the rings/bore as efficiently

A tow of three seats, one single and a double, and the folding double from he back of the Stepwagon. All covered in cream faux leather and in excellent condition. Free to a good home. Collection from Exeter.

Recently renewed MOT, some minor problems, but still roadworthy. Mileage is 207,000; colour Red. Contact me for further info (I would love to part-exchange, but wishful thinking) I got offered scrap value far less than any parts on it are worth (yes, I would sell if you wanted it for parts) Oh yes, recent new Alternator fitted. Edit: recent MOT expiry date 25/10/25

Interesting: I also have a CRV I want to sell (so i can upgrade to a newer Honda CRV).

New member here, hoping this site is not also overrun by the US.

I measured the battery voltage with a multimeter. It was around 2.3V when it should have been 3.3! I guess one of the cells inside the battery must have suddenly failed to cause such a sudden voltage drop. I replaced the battery with another of the same batch and so far, so good.

My car is a honda hr-v year 2000 4wd 1.6cc petrol. This car was not ULEZ compliant until recently. As Transport for London only deems petrol cars with euro 4 standard as compliant, and my car is a 2000 model with a euro 3 standard, it automatically went into the non-compliance big sack. As I work just inside of London and need my car to get there, I was faced with the upheaval of replacing a perfectly working car for something else at considerable costs and hassle. I then by chance discovered that all hr-v models from 2001 onwards (petrol) are all automatically deemed compliant and do not have to pay the charge. As my car has the exact same engine as those later models I decided to do some research and then I discovered that the models for years 1999 and 2000 should also be registered as ULEZ compliant by TFL as they are low polluting vehicles. Their NOx values are 0.04 g/km which is well below the ULEZ euro 4 threshold of 0.08 NOx g/km. That's nearly half of the maximum NOx permitted for compliance. What I did to make it compliant and you will need to do if you want to do the same: Email Honda europe and request a CERTIFICATE OF CONFORMITY for your vehicle. This is their email; coc@honda-eu.com You will be asked to fill in a form, scan or take a pic with your phone and send back to them. They will send you the certificate of conformity in a letter to the address you have specified in this form. The letter may take up to 2 weeks to arrive. In the emissions section of your certificate your NOx should have a value of 0.041 g/km Then you have to register yourself and your car as a user with Transport for London through their page as this is requirement to contest the ULEZ status of your vehicle. You'll need to set up username, password and payment details so when you drive in the zones (congestion charge zone or ulez zone) you will be charged automatically. I had this set up a year ago or so to avoid a penalty charge in case I drove in and forgot to pay later etc, which is easier to do than it sounds. It takes a while to register but it's easy and you can de-register yourself after the process has finished if you wish. Once you have received the certificate of conformity you have to go on to TFL's ULEZ page and find a section where you can say your car should be ULEZ exempt. This is the link; https://tfl.gov.uk/modes/driving/compliance-registration/before-you-start You will be asked to upload your V5 vehicle document and the Certificate of Conformity as evidence of your claim. Add that your vehicle's NOx emissions fall bellow the ULEZ euro 4 standard of NOx 0.08 g/km and that you kindly ask for it to be registered as compliant and exempt from the charge. If the link fails, you can email Transport for London directly here; cclondon@cclondon.com and explain that your petrol car, even though being a (1999 or 2000) model it is still compliant as its NOx emissions fall bellow the euro 4 standard of NOx 0.08 g/km. Remember to attach the V5 document of your car and certificate of conformity as your evidence for the claim. Transport for London may take up to 10 working days to reply to your email, which in my case they did. I got an email with a pdf attachement saying that my application had been successful and I did not have to pay the charge. I also checked in their own website checker by introducing my registration and voi-la! my car appeared as compliant and exempt from the charge. Big hooray! A note of advice, your application may be rejected the first time by TFL saying that your car is listed as euro 3 and not euro 4 standard. If that is the case, just send email and politely request again that your car is registered as compliant based on its emissions and not its euro standard rating. If your NOx emissions are below 0.08 g/km and you have a certificate from your manufacturer with those values, then you car shouldn't pay ULEZ. I hope this can help anyone like it helped me. Good luck.

Great era, great music. Loved Pink Floyd Another Brick in the Wall ! Remember having coal fire at the first house I rented after moving out of home. Chopper bikes, candy fags and naffy sandwiches (jam sandwiches covered in batter and fried). Having to get used to decimal currency, having a sweet shop with proper sweets that were weighed out Wow... what a great time. Remember the miners strikes well. Also taking my driving test and buying my first car!!

Yes i have found some information on roof rack, apparently thule fitting kit for Daihatsu sirion will work. But so far all attempts at finding a towbar have failed. Not giving up yet tho. Yes i have import too.

Hi, you should make sure the car knows you are home using SatNav setting too.

Hi, is it set to 24 hour mode clock? It is assuming you have set it not to charge between 23:30 and 05:30hrs. Switch to off.

Hi there everyone, I have owned a honda stepwagon 2010 rk5 for nearly a year now and its an amazing car. I am currently looking for a few bits for its next mot like discs n pads, tie rods and suspension arms or all the bushes. I heard that honda use the same parts already available for other models and I am hoping someon1e knows this information because buying the parts that are sold just stating stepwagons are ridiculously overpriced. Kind regards Christian

I Just recently joined the forum as I am hopefully getting my e:Ny1 delivered in around a week or so. It doesn't look like we have many 'E' owners here or are most 'lurkers' lol. Shout up and be counted, add a couple of pics of your ride for us all to look at! 🙂

Hello and welcome 🙂

If i had to make an educated guess, you need either a slave cylinder, a clutch kit or both.

Ok thanks according to my online account my car should arrive in next few days , so just a case of wether I want to wait till September to register.

Hi everyone. Although I have owned probably around a dozen Civics from a 3 door mk5 through to a 5 door mk8, I've never joined this club. However, I've just bought myself an EP2 and finally decided to join. She needs some work but I'm still chuffed to own her. Cheers, Colin

Hello and welcome 🙂

Mines 2007 and its chain. Got a photo of the engine? Im not sure if all the MK2's were chain with the K24A engine.

Thank you for posting this information which will certainly shine some light on the subject of DPF's Post is now pinned and featured in this forum section

Hi Sensescaper, you do not need to take the bumper off, you need to turn the wheels fully to the left or the right depending on what side your changing, remove the inner wheel arch lining and reach in through there. I agree it's not easy and you need fairly long arms but that's the way in. if you have the manual it tells you how to do it in there. I used to do 30K a year in my 2010 Accord Tourer and would have to change the bulbs at least once a year, so worth buying the expensive bulbs rather than the cheap ones. Got 257K out of mine, before chopping it in, a great car. Everything still worked and was still getting 48 mpg on my commute, same clutch same exhaust.