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My car is a honda hr-v year 2000 4wd 1.6cc petrol. This car was not ULEZ compliant until recently. As Transport for London only deems petrol cars with euro 4 standard as compliant, and my car is a 2000 model with a euro 3 standard, it automatically went into the non-compliance big sack. As I work just inside of London and need my car to get there, I was faced with the upheaval of replacing a perfectly working car for something else at considerable costs and hassle. I then by chance discovered that all hr-v models from 2001 onwards (petrol) are all automatically deemed compliant and do not have to pay the charge. As my car has the exact same engine as those later models I decided to do some research and then I discovered that the models for years 1999 and 2000 should also be registered as ULEZ compliant by TFL as they are low polluting vehicles. Their NOx values are 0.04 g/km which is well below the ULEZ euro 4 threshold of 0.08 NOx g/km. That's nearly half of the maximum NOx permitted for compliance. What I did to make it compliant and you will need to do if you want to do the same: Email Honda europe and request a CERTIFICATE OF CONFORMITY for your vehicle. This is their email; coc@honda-eu.com You will be asked to fill in a form, scan or take a pic with your phone and send back to them. They will send you the certificate of conformity in a letter to the address you have specified in this form. The letter may take up to 2 weeks to arrive. In the emissions section of your certificate your NOx should have a value of 0.041 g/km Then you have to register yourself and your car as a user with Transport for London through their page as this is requirement to contest the ULEZ status of your vehicle. You'll need to set up username, password and payment details so when you drive in the zones (congestion charge zone or ulez zone) you will be charged automatically. I had this set up a year ago or so to avoid a penalty charge in case I drove in and forgot to pay later etc, which is easier to do than it sounds. It takes a while to register but it's easy and you can de-register yourself after the process has finished if you wish. Once you have received the certificate of conformity you have to go on to TFL's ULEZ page and find a section where you can say your car should be ULEZ exempt. This is the link; https://tfl.gov.uk/modes/driving/compliance-registration/before-you-start You will be asked to upload your V5 vehicle document and the Certificate of Conformity as evidence of your claim. Add that your vehicle's NOx emissions fall bellow the ULEZ euro 4 standard of NOx 0.08 g/km and that you kindly ask for it to be registered as compliant and exempt from the charge. If the link fails, you can email Transport for London directly here; cclondon@cclondon.com and explain that your petrol car, even though being a (1999 or 2000) model it is still compliant as its NOx emissions fall bellow the euro 4 standard of NOx 0.08 g/km. Remember to attach the V5 document of your car and certificate of conformity as your evidence for the claim. Transport for London may take up to 10 working days to reply to your email, which in my case they did. I got an email with a pdf attachement saying that my application had been successful and I did not have to pay the charge. I also checked in their own website checker by introducing my registration and voi-la! my car appeared as compliant and exempt from the charge. Big hooray! A note of advice, your application may be rejected the first time by TFL saying that your car is listed as euro 3 and not euro 4 standard. If that is the case, just send email and politely request again that your car is registered as compliant based on its emissions and not its euro standard rating. If your NOx emissions are below 0.08 g/km and you have a certificate from your manufacturer with those values, then you car shouldn't pay ULEZ. I hope this can help anyone like it helped me. Good luck.

I Just recently joined the forum as I am hopefully getting my e:Ny1 delivered in around a week or so. It doesn't look like we have many 'E' owners here or are most 'lurkers' lol. Shout up and be counted, add a couple of pics of your ride for us all to look at! 🙂

Picked my advance aqua topaz up a few days ago and although the handover was problematic I’m enjoying the car. I’ve just taken it on a short break and driving experience was good. I’m finding the steering a bit lighter than the Hrv which makes for a more pleasant driving experience. I like the large screen which divides into three separate areas and seems user friendly. The drivers seat adjustment is now electronic and I found it difficult to get the perfect position….just a small niggle. Early days but don’t think I will regret the change.

An Ode to the Internal Combustion Engine and me having to eat a lot of my earlier words! OK for those who know me well, I think its fair to describe me as a self confessed 'Petrol Head' In both business and pleasure much of my time has had something to do with cars, bikes, motorsport etc. I have heavily modified a LOT of cars and bikes over the years, engines, chassis, body etc etc. Designed and built chassis for companies such as Fraser Nash and some others as well as individual projects. I still love my cars and especially my motorbike and enjoy riding and driving as much for pleasure as transport itself Well, I found myself recently in the fortunate position of being able to order a new car, I quite enjoyed doing my research on various cars and after the usual due diligence something surprising repeatedly came up. The correct car, based on my usage case, economy etc was a full electric Battery EV... I ignored this for a bit, dismissing the gains as minor and I didn't want an EV, soulless and with dubious environment gains, range issues and lack of charging network were my excuses. However, the more I looked, the more an EV stood head and shoulders above an ICE (internal combustion engine) car. I mused this for quite some time and eventually, almost reluctantly decided to order a BEV (Battery Electric vehicle). More research and due diligence later and two particular cars were chosen as the most suitable candidates and one was ordered based on availability more than anything else... This brings me on to last Monday when I went and collected the car. Right, I'm sat in my new car, the handover and paperwork complete as well as a quick rundown on controls and charging etc etc, but due to a lack of demonstrator, I still had never driven an EV, nor even a Hybrid lol. Was I in for a shock! I started or rather turned on the car, and began to pull off, it was steady away, no gears other than forwards or backwards and the usual park and neutral (buttons rather than a gear stick or lever). The car moves forward in near silence, emitting only an almost ethereal whooshy sound, partly by the electric motor and partly from a sound system designed to alert pedestrians and such of your presence. Its most peculiar at first, its so much smoother, silent and refined, although I got used to it very quickly. At this point I was far from sold, yes it was really nice to drive, but it seemed initially to be equally soulless and devoid of character as I had feared and I was oddly missing the sound of an ICE engine and to a lesser degree gears... Next I decided to punch in 'Sport Mode' and test out the acceleration, on paper it should be reasonably brisk with an output over 200BHP and in excess of 320 Nm of torque. A nice straight, even and empty stretch of road that I deemed suitable was found for a quick test of the 0-60 acceleration. I have owned and driven plenty of cars with well above this level of power and was expecting it to be fun and brisk but not hugely impressive. Well, I hit the gas and to my amazement the car launched forward at a most surprising rate, especially from 0-50, where the instant and linear power delivery felt more like 300BHP plus due to that lack of power curve and instant power delivery! OK score one for the BEV! One of the main reasons for choosing the BEV was its economy, I am fortunate in that I have been able to fit a Home charger, meaning I can have extremely cheap 'off peak' electricity to charge the BEV every night. Based on my 'cheap rate' overnight charging this equates to less than 2 pence a mile, yes LESS than £0.02p a mile or put another way 200 miles for well under £4!! OK score two for the BEV! This is a game changer for me! One of my biggest worries was how far in the real world can I drive on a single charge and how bad is the public charging network in reality. This was a big part of my scepticism, 'Range Anxiety' is oft talked about by new EV drivers from my research and I too was worried about it. Firstly, I have seen figures of between 3.5 and 4 miles per kilowatt (Think of this as 'Lekky MPG') This was much closer to the range figures the manufacturer had given than I had expected and was oft reported by reviewers. It will drop lower in the winter for sure and using the heater / AC will also affect it to some degree also, but again a good start! As for the charger network in most places its actually pretty good, once I found a couple of apps for my phone I was amazed as to how many public charging points are available UK wide. Yes, some could charge a bit faster, some areas have less charge points than others, but I have found suitable charging spots for every conceivable journey I'm likely to make and a few crazy ones I doubt I would ever do! The truth of it is I don't ever really drive more than 200 miles without needing to have a break and a pee lol, you can fast charge the car at a motorway services in anything from 20-45 minutes, even 11 minutes will add 60 miles range! By the time you have had a bite to eat or a coffee its going to be pretty much ready for the next part of your journey. OK score three for the BEV! The BEVs are only getting better, in many ways I'm an early adopter of this technology and its very much still in its early days with big improvements in range and efficiency coming almost weekly! The main reason for me writing all this is because I was an EV 'doubter' in fact I was a 'hater' of EV's and didn't like the thought of such a profound change in my beloved cars and bikes etc. Notice I have said nothing about the 'environmental gains' associated with EV's? I have not done so because too much is made of this, it makes running an EV sound like an 'important sacrifice' we should feel compelled to make, where as in reality, they are actually really good fun to drive, massively cheaper to run (not to mention much cheaper to service and more reliable) as well as more comfortable. The fact that they emit 0 pollution is just a great bonus, but before we all feel very smug and green, we need to think about where and how our 'green' electricity is made!! (But that's a whole 'nother' story as they say) I hope this might make another Petrol head like myself give EV's a fair shot before listening to the 'Herd' You will very likely be quite surprised. There is one caveat though, I DONT want an electric motorbike (yet at anyways lol)

Just got my 2004 Honda Civic IMA Hybrid Saloon. Nice leather interior with the Executive trim.

My 2021 CR-V went into Brayley’s Honda, Ewell on 17 December 2024 and they identified the problem as the Brake Pedal Simulator. The part was ordered on 18 December, none were available in the UK so the part was put on ‘back order’ and finally arrived from Japan on 14 March. With the repair completed, I got the car back on 19 March 2025 after 92-days! Have to say that Brayley’s, who thought I qualified for a complementary hire car were pretty good but Honda UK were awful. They said that I was not entitled to a hire car as my vehicle was out of warranty even though the repair was being fixed as a ‘warranty’ repair and Honda were picking up the full cost of the part and labour. Brayley’s loaned me a vehicle for 4-days so that I could visit my 99-year-old father on his birthday but I had to pay £30 to cover insurance. The MOT was due while the vehicle was in the garage and Brayley’s picked up the cost as a good will gesture – well done Brayley’s. One of the reasons I purchased a Honda in the first place was due to their reliability…..As I left the service area/showroom one of the sales people ask me if I wanted to discuss burying a new Honda – what do you think I said?

Hello, I live in Cornwall and recently acquired a 2012 1.4 Honda Jazz. I had a couple of Accords back in the 80’s and quite a few Honda bikes.

Hi Tiz, have you looked at these ites?? https://hondaspareparts.co.uk/collections/discontinued-parts?srsltid=AfmBOooXh0sPT4xdU8LmRqY3qqXYnlAdsMZQs1kzkyU7VYgAjns1oGDl https://www.parts-honda.uk/

I would say when accelerating very lightly but only at the lower speeds of between 20 to 30mph, seems better once warmed up, looking at the service history the differential oil was done 3 years ago but cant see any history of a ATF fluid change so may just book that in, will also ask them if they have any software updates for the transmission.

Hi thanks for your comment. My car is a2022 jazz hybrid. 2yrs 10 months old, with 17000 miles. I wouldn't expect the battery to go flat after using the car locally al l week. I'm taking it to honda to have the electrics checked over...

The statement you make about charging; "All-electric and plug-in hybrid models will gain further functionality, allowing users to remotely schedule vehicle charging to meet their needs, as well as pre-heating or pre-cooling the cabin via the AC system prior to a journey." Not true, you cannot schedule a charge for the ENY:1 using the Honda + App, you can start and stop a charge only.

Hi all, just purchased my second CRV, only had the last one for around 11 months, well impressed thought i would like a hybrid to try. Tried a 21 plate ex, loved it, and thought you know what this is for me, so yep bought it. Just one point, the car has folding door mirrors which i work manually from the door switch. Is there a way to automatically fold them when i lock the car with the remote? Anyway she's a brilliant car, called yeah yeah you guessed, Hondo. Bye all have a great time with your "Hondo's" atb Dave

Hi....welcome to the Club The CRV is a superb vehicle and generally does not give many problems The diff - you'll know when the fluid needs replacing when it starts to knock and clunk on hard turn onto a driveway for example Just get a couple of litres of the correct fluid and easy enough to replace in the rear diff Try IceboxAutos for aftermarket audio that is designed to replace the CRV standard radio

Apologies - double post due to browser crash. Paul

Merry Christmas to the members of the Honda Owners Club Enjoy the festive break and see you back here in 2025

Hi Simon, got the same problem did you get to the bottom of it?

Bought a 2005 Accord 2.4 exc for £1k as a project car, car had full Honda service history but pulled to the right, sorted out that issue by changing the warped rota and flushing the power steering fluid and filled with Honda spec plus fitted a new aux belt, now car drives great, so far have fitted a ugen style spoiler , piper cross air filter and painted the front grill, Mods line up to be done cat back exhaust, coilovers, remap type s body kit 18 inch alloys will update photos as i go

Cheers Trevor.

That should work..

I assume you don't have the recirculate vent closed, sounds as if you aren't introducing fresh air. Try auto setting on heater that will bring in dry air as it will utilise the A.C

I wonder if it is an 'average' fuel consumption meter and has settled down after a mixed driving style if you reset it then it may go back to the actual consumption figure Alternatively, a service may be due and the engine oil quality can contribute to a decrease in economy if the cylinder compressions are reduced with the oil not sealing the rings/bore as efficiently

its usually written in the service book, audio handbook or a separate card in the vehicle wallet If not then the dealer should be able to look up the number (probably for a small charge)

A tow of three seats, one single and a double, and the folding double from he back of the Stepwagon. All covered in cream faux leather and in excellent condition. Free to a good home. Collection from Exeter.

I measured the battery voltage with a multimeter. It was around 2.3V when it should have been 3.3! I guess one of the cells inside the battery must have suddenly failed to cause such a sudden voltage drop. I replaced the battery with another of the same batch and so far, so good.

Yes i have found some information on roof rack, apparently thule fitting kit for Daihatsu sirion will work. But so far all attempts at finding a towbar have failed. Not giving up yet tho. Yes i have import too.

This worked for me a couple of months ago: https://support.garmin.com/en-GB/?faq=4qpP6QRT6r105RJ1sELgM7#:~:text=Honda vehicles with Garmin Navigation,map updates at no cost

Welcome jps71, sorry if no one has said hello. Lots of great advice and help on here if you ever need it Alan

Hi, you should make sure the car knows you are home using SatNav setting too.

Hi there everyone, I have owned a honda stepwagon 2010 rk5 for nearly a year now and its an amazing car. I am currently looking for a few bits for its next mot like discs n pads, tie rods and suspension arms or all the bushes. I heard that honda use the same parts already available for other models and I am hoping someon1e knows this information because buying the parts that are sold just stating stepwagons are ridiculously overpriced. Kind regards Christian

Hi, E.NY1 ordered and should be collected early September, cracking deal £41k 5yrs Servicing, 5yrs Breakdown cover, 0% APR. Having spent some 40yrs in the motor trade, now retired. I for one have not taken any notice whatsoever from Journalists reviews, after all that's all they are, most have no idea about motor vehicles, but good with words. I have had a Fiat 500e for the past three years and now need something a little larger, hence the E.NY1 It fits exactly what we need from a vehicle and from my experience with Honda I have no doubts it will carry on the reliability they are famed for, unlike Fiat. Never, ever listen to opinion, only to those that know!

If i had to make an educated guess, you need either a slave cylinder, a clutch kit or both.

Hi everyone. Although I have owned probably around a dozen Civics from a 3 door mk5 through to a 5 door mk8, I've never joined this club. However, I've just bought myself an EP2 and finally decided to join. She needs some work but I'm still chuffed to own her. Cheers, Colin

Hello and welcome 🙂

Its likley to be the door switch. Basically, your car doesnt know the door has been opened so, re-locks the doors incase you accidently unlocked it in your pocket. My renault trafic did it, was a door switch. Id imagine its, as your picture, that.

As above, if its complaining about a disk error its highly unlikley to be the disk, its the alpine head unit thats fitted as stock, the DVD lens unit fails. I ripped mine out and fitted a new Sony head unit with apple car play... much better.

I changed mine for Denso ones, and also Intermotor ones. Ended up just putting the genuine ones back. My car didnt like the other ones, all sorts of engine management lights.

I get this... oddly after i replaced the rear shocks and springs with Monroe units! I think maybe the top mounts are tired and need changing, will find out soon.

I have a pretty extensive tool collection (I'm an engineer) and found the only tools I could use with success were, 1. a quite short ring spanner with a fairly deep 90 degree crank each end (not modified), it only allowed a limited turn so was slow to undo. 2. I also used a short combination spanner. Once the nut was loose, it turned freely by hand. It was more of a pain to replace than to remove. I used a magnet on a rod to position the nut, then managed to turn it a little with a screwdriver just to start it, then by hand with a final tighten with the ring spanner. It fell off many times before i achieved success. I placed a cloth to cover the area, to prevent the nuts falling into any voids and getting lost. Ive now been driving the car regularly with no change to the good pedal firmness and smooth operation. The aftermarket slave cylinder appears to be operating ok still, time will tell.

Your wireless module behind the driver side door panel is not working properly. You will need to replace it with one that is fully functional. I've had two in my wife's 2001 CR-V that stopped working because water got in them. So when I bought this last one I made sure to put it in a medium sized sturdy Ziploc bag with the seal opening facing down, cut a small slit in the top left for the harness to get through then ziptied that part down and used a drill to quickly screw the screws back to keep the bag airtight where the screws go. Then I sealed the bottom. So far no water has penetrated the new module. The problem is water was seeping down into the module from the inner side of the door panel in my wife's CR-V. I don't know why, but this is a design defect in my opinion. I don't understand why the door weather strip can't keep water out of the driver side door panel, but my 2018 Honda Fit has the same problem, but worse! Water actually travels down and soaks the floor on the driver's side after a rain, and I have to dry it. I've actually called Honda and asked if there was a recall for this and the said no. Well, there should be!

Will check that out also. Im 99% sure its the shaft, it went really bad and i fitted a second hand one which fixed 90% of it, but I now have a new non genuine inner and outer shaft in the post.

Thanks Trevor! I had it locally, im only the 2nd owner, its just ticked over 100k on the clock. Was owned by an older couple and they were finding it a bit big and heavy to drive. I use it to tow my caravan, probably be better with a diesel but i love the reliability of the K20. Struggling to sort out a wobble (believed drive shaft, but we shall see!) Cheers! Kev

Hi JB, I don't see any replies to your question. How far did you get with your investigation/research? I am taking an eight hour ferry trip and was also concerned about the tilt alarm being activated but apparently, for my 2015 CRV, there is no tilt alarm. The stock alarm is activated by forced entry to the tailgate/bonnet and cabin but there is no tilt. Does this confirm what you found out? Regards Dick

Its not just cars, think I could do with some WD40 on a daily basis sometimes 🙂

Thanks Alan gsd Did try the WD40 solution but unfortunately for me, it didn’t work. However I started doing some more logical testing as to when the door locks was activated. My analysis was: 1.0. The locks only triggered after 30 sec if the large back door was open. 2.0. Then I started looking the door sensor (see photo). The spring on that has come off so when the door is opened the lever doesn’t retract to the open position. when I manually slide the lever to the open position, the doors don’t lock. Could be I have cracked it, just need either a new lever or a compatible spring.

After numerous garages failed to sort the problem I took it to a man I found on Facebook, it turned out it was a computer problem. I think he rebooted the system and cleared the fault and I haven’t had any problem since. If you live near the Sheffield area I can give you his name. I was also advised not to use cruise control anymore as this adds to the problem.

Hi Sensescaper, you do not need to take the bumper off, you need to turn the wheels fully to the left or the right depending on what side your changing, remove the inner wheel arch lining and reach in through there. I agree it's not easy and you need fairly long arms but that's the way in. if you have the manual it tells you how to do it in there. I used to do 30K a year in my 2010 Accord Tourer and would have to change the bulbs at least once a year, so worth buying the expensive bulbs rather than the cheap ones. Got 257K out of mine, before chopping it in, a great car. Everything still worked and was still getting 48 mpg on my commute, same clutch same exhaust.