Trevor

Thats interesting information Charles F and sorry to hear your wheels aren't covered for this sort of damage

Hi Almach99 .... welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!

Very nice spot, probably not the best place to have a breakdown though

Found this answer https://www.fixya.com/cars/t15527274-torque_setting_wheel_nuts_honda_frv

Yes, you can but maybe worth bypassing the A/C pump pulley by using a shorter belt if running like this for a long time

Had a similar issue with my CR-V when I acquired it.....would have to constantly rest my hand on the wheel to bias it over to one side otherwise it would drag over into another lane. This was caused by the rear wheels being out of alignment (toe in/out) which is adjustable on the CR-V but not entirely sure if on the FR-V Once the rear adjustment was made, problem solved. Any adjustments on alignment should be made on the rear first if out of sync, most of the time they compensate by adjusting the fronts which doesn't cure it. Also, check your tyres carefully (sizes, pressures, make (e.g. Chinese) and go with that before spending big money on it

I wonder if the sensor resistance is different from the others....worth taking a reading from the new one and an existing one to compare.

Look at the rear light assemblies. worth removing, looking at the gaskets and if you see signs of water then reseal them with silicon Also worth checking that the washer hose for the rear screen is not split and leaking into the boot

I can honestly say I have seen a lot worse. It doesn't even look that blue from excess heat caused by slipping, although you can see evidence of this occurring (by the previous owner?) However, the CR-V uses a self-adjusting clutch and when the power is on it causes the clutch to slip due to reduced pressure on the driven plate. There used to have an issue with the cruise-control sensor adjustment on the pedal and this influenced the operational setting of the self-adjusting cover plate...although this only usually affected earlier models I believe.

Good result all round then! 🙂 Thanks for giving us the feedback

This is a good place to start https://satnavstore.com/

Hi Tony Many years ago, when cars were in their infancy with electronics, this very issue was down to wear on the throttle potentiometer (sensor that measure throttle pedal angle/movement) and if there was wear on a certain part of the potentiometer track (usually low down as this would be the most used part of the track if driving around town) and it gave the very same issue as you are describing. Not saying that is the case, but very similar. You could do with scanning the pedal sensor or throttle body sensor for voltage and see if there is a spike in the readings. It may be within the threshold which is why the EML doesn't come on. Also, worth checking Air Flow/Mass Meter for contamination and clean it up to see if that makes a difference. While you're under the bonnet, check for any splits in any rubber hoses as could be drawing unregulated air

Hi Tony...welcome to the Club Doesn't matter if you car is old, it is a Honda after all and good for high mileages. Good to have you onboard!

Hi....welcome to the Club Sorry to hear you are experiencing issues on what should be an up together car purchased from a Honda dealership. Clutches do wear if abused (short-shifting, pulling away in 2nd gear, etc) but as you say this could have been caused by the previous owner. Can you upload some photos of the old parts? In reference to the transmission, I can only imagine this may have occurred if the oil level is low or not even topped up after refitting. If not, then as they say it is very rare for a gearbox to fail on a Honda

Hi.....welcome to the Club How to Program a 2001 Honda CR-V Keyless Entry Remote Fob Step by Step How to Programming Instructions: Note: Entering the programming mode cancels all learned keyless remotes, so none of the previously programmed remotes will work. You must reprogram all of the keyless remotes once you are in the programming mode. You must complete each step within 5 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn ignition switch to ON (II) 2. Press the LOCK or UNLOCK button on one of the remotes. (An unprogrammed remote can be used for this step.) 3. Turn ignition switch to LOCK (0) 4. Repeat steps 1, 2 and 3 two more times using the same keyless remote used in step 2 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II) 6. Press the LOCK or UNLOCK button the same remote. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm you are in programming mode. 7. Press the LOCK or UNLOCK button on each remote you want to program. Make sure door locks cycle after you push each remote button to confirm system has accepted the remote. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit programming mode. 9. Test remote(s)

Hi Mr.B Accord and welcome to the Club

1.6 engine in the UK

Let us know how it goes and would be good to see the end result

I run an old BMW Z3 and according to the ULEZ government site I can run this around the ULEZ zones in most cities as the restrictions seem to apply to Vans, Lorries, etc. Posted this below: if you put your registration in with the site then it asks if it is UK registered (which it is) and this is the result

Hi Guys and Gal's We are reaching out to all Honda Owners' Club members to see if there are any Honda Owners' looking to be a bigger part of the club and help contribute posts or help new members or simply just talk Honda. We are looking for a small team of at least 6 people to be part of the team and encourage more discussion, arrange Honda events within the UK and be part of a growing team. If you would like to be a club team member then message @Trevor

If no one responds then make sure you carry a tape measure with you and if you see one in a car park then you can quickly measure it up before you attract unwanted attention 🙂 I have done this myself in the past

It could be the aerial amplifier that has gone faulty or become unplugged? Also, check the band selection is correct

Yes, you should definitely replace the auxiliary drivebelt at the same time as the pulley. The pulley is a common fault with Honda as they break up and worth replacing before it fails completely.

There is an adaption that can be carried out with a scan tool ....suggest taking it to a Honda specialist garage but not necessarily a Honda dealership