Trevor

Hi...welcome to the Forum You have used quite a good diagnostic process so far and it looks like everything is normal except for the SatNav face playing up. If it were me, I would pull the fuse for the SatNav / Audio and see if the power drain still occurs. If not, then chances are it is a fault unit and needs replacing.

Thanks for the feedback, fitted some aftermarket bulbs to a CR-V a couple of weeks ago and got them from eBay for around £12 each and they worked fine.

Hi....welcome to the Forum I believe there may be additional audio settings in the system, found this before on earlier generation CR-V and it was a different setting for SatNav than it was for Audio....just got to play with the settings or refer to the extensive manual

Hi.....welcome to the Forum I have heard this too and not surprised as Honda have always been way behind on any multi-media system updates. I think with the current situation then you may have to wait a little longer until a newer version comes out

Unless as you say they are using the USB as an AUX source rather than the traditional small round plug of old

Hi...welcome to the Forum It's all to do with the EURO emissions and how much CO2 they produce, so even though they are more fuel efficient they do actually pollute more. For the small difference over the year I would just go with the one with the best economy and claim back the increased cost that way

Great result and excellent diagnostic skills to find the fault. Any chance of posting up a photo of the affected area of the fusebox in case anyone else encounters the same issue. Thanks

Hi....welcome to the Forum I have replaced a headlamp bulb once before and it was definitely a skin -remover but not impossible to replace in situ. Let us know how you get on or if you find an alternative method of attack

Hi.....welcome to the Forum Great looking car, and has a great stance on those wheels. Not sure whether you may need to source the correct wipers through Honda on this one. If you try to negotiate a trade price then the cost won't be too astronomical Good to have you onboard

I was sat in a 2011 Jazz last week and it had the USB lower down from the dash and also a AUX socket in the head unit in the dash but it was a higher spec car with SatNav and MP3 function so whether that is any different to yours?

Good luck

Have you checked inside the glovebox?

Hi...welcome to the Forum I thought there was a blanking plug on the face in between the buttons

Hi.....welcome to the Forum It sounds like the inner Constant Velocity (CV) joint has disassembled. You would need to strip the boot back (without damaging it) and see if any bearings have dropped out and need refitting.

Going to have to trace it back, could be a loose or corroded connector somewhere in the vehicle. Maybe worth looking in the areas that open and close (e.g. tailgate wiring) to see if there is a short circuit in there

Hi....welcome to the Forum I looked at the product listing and it has the cross reference numbers below: Reference OE/OEM Numbers: 8800RZVG020M20, 8810RNA0240, 8810RNAA010, 8810RNAA020, 8810RZVG010, 8810RZVG020, 8810RZVG030, 8810RZVG040, 38800RZVG020M2, 38810RNA024, 38810RNAA01, 38810RNAA02, 38810RZVG01, 38810RZVG02, 38810RZVG03, 38810RZVG04, 89247 I would search each one individually as it may come up for a completely different make/model vehicle but same part and cheaper

Hi....welcome to the Forum Eurocarparts or eBay should provide most of the common suspension and brake parts that you would require

Hi James.....welcome to the Forum You should have no problems with the sensors on the Honda as they are very reliable generally. Overall, I don't think you'll have any issues in general with the Honda as they are built well and completely durable. Heater fan motors tend to fail but beyond that I can't think of anything else that could fail on the car as a whole. Also, having the Head Gasket replaced and a major service you have covered most of the bases.

If it were me, I would try to find another sensor (new one) and take a resistance reading from it to compare the one on your vehicle to ascertain whether it is the sensor at fault. Equally, I would also examine any wiring leading to the sensor connection and check for damage or corrosion issues. One other thing to bear in mind is how tight it has been taken down to, too much and this can damage the sensor body and allow unregulated air to enter the measured stream.

Hi Darryl....welcome to the Forum If fuse 15 blew then there is the problem, short circuit or similar which could be caused by water ingress....I would inspect each lamp seperately and see there is no corrosion in the bulb holder (including the mirrors)

Hi....welcome to the Forum Sounds odd, not sure why the high beam alert unless a bulb has gone but the Cruise Control could be related to a speed sensing issue. The only common link I could think of is the radar at the front of the car or windscreen has muck on it and cannot sense vehicles in front?

I believe there is a battery cell inside the siren itself

Hi....welcome to the Forum It may be the backup battery in the alarm siren that needs replacing. If not, then check all door switches work by opening and closing each door to see if the light comes on and goes off. Also, ensure that the boot and bonnet are also activating the switches. If all windows are closed and doors shut then it should be okay, and maybe lock on the key and not the remote plip.

Hi Malk Here is a link to the location of the OBD socket https://www.wikiobd.co.uk/chassisoryear.php?md=641

Technically you can't reclassify a vehicle for additional passengers but I would have thought there would be an centre belt already there or up on the inside of the roof panel