Leaderboard

Then its a case of sliding the protrusion from the top of the drawer into the opening between the two metal clips and then pushing the two hinge buckets on the drawer onto the cubby pivots (its an interference fit hinge assembly)

You've probably sorted it by now, but I had similar problem. My car would draw 250mA when off and locked...I only noticed as I couldn't use it for a few days as I had sent the abs pump off to be fixed. Car only just started, so I looked into it, for me it was the bluetooth/voice control unit circuit board...wasn't shutting off properly for some reason. Couldn't find a new/used unit for a good price so found the permanent 12v to the board, snipped it and connected to 12v ignition, so only comes on when driving... P.s. the alarm battery backup is inside the alarm itself...

Could it also be that the rear diff oil is needing changed? I experienced something similar with a 2010 model. It was like a shuddering feel through the car. A relatively simple DIY job.

Although both have the same 1.6 capacity, I think the 2wd is a 120hp (on an SR model - 115 CO2) and the 4wd is a 160hp so emmisions will be different. Also, the version with the 9 speed auto box (139 CO2) has higher emissions than the manual (133 CO2)

This sounds like a universal drive joint,which I have read will 'tick' at the beginning,if it is juddering it is well past that point,it will need to be replaced,you need either the LH or RH drive shaft.You can buy this as a complete unite.You may be able to see it from underneath,when you say it judders it should show some grease or damage to the rubber boot in the centre of the front drive wheels.You can get a new one,for about the same price of a secondhand one on Ebay.A new Honda one is about 3 or 4 times the price.This needs to be done or you will end up stranded.