Trevor

things seemed so much easier back in the day - as long as the tyre was round then it was fine 🙂

I think some of them are making a revival - at least in name though Lost too many good brewerys over the years (Ringwood Brewery my local one has now closed) :-(

It should fit the apeture but Halfords stock kits to ensure the wiring and fascia are suitable

I agree with you Alan, it was by far the best of all the generations so far

More than likely this is the DPF regenerating and while that is active then possibly it will not allow the service reset to occur at the same time?

wasn't sure what the arrows surrounding the spanner meant so looked it up: AI Overview The image displays an icon representing a wrench encircled by two arrows in a cyclical motion This icon typically symbolizes: Settings or Options: The wrench often denotes tools or configurations, and the arrows can imply a refresh or update of these settings. System Maintenance or Repair: It can indicate an ongoing process related to system checks, repairs, or optimizations. Automatic Updates or Synchronization: The circular arrows suggest a recurring or automatic process, potentially related to software updates or data synchronization. Loading or Processing: In some contexts, it can signify that a system is busy processing or loading information, particularly when related to system configurations or background tasks

Welcome to the Club Nice looking machine - enjoy!

It's quite disconcerting to think that the dealers are confused about the update. Be interested to see where this goes

Hi Adrian - welcome to the Club Wow! fabulous mileage for an old Honda, but that was back in an era when cars were made properly and lasted for years. I run a BMW Z3 which is 25 years old and 125k and have never really put a spanner to it in anger. Starts everytime and drives without any squeaks or rattles - a properly built car from that era. Great to have you onboard and feel free to post up some pics of the old girl

Hi.....welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!

The cases are just that and tend to fit quite well - it refreshes the external look of the fobs and usually has new rubber button inserts. Check the remote microswitches inside are secure on the circuit board as sometimes they detach and require soldering

Its refreshing to hear good news about car dealerships as you don't often read too many positive reviews about them. Thanks for sharing with the club and glad it was all resolved at nominal cost to yourself

have you tried ebay? https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=39680-TLO-GO1YB&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p4582968.m570.l1313

You can try on eBay (discount code at the top of the page) and still find Honda genuine fluids on there. I would definitely stick to genuine fluids if possible

If the symbol disappears once you have the brake pedal depressed then no problem but if still illuminated then could be a faulty pedal switch - try pressing harder on the brake pedal as well

Hi....welcome to the club Once Honda is in your blood you'll always come back to one.

Here's an old topic discussing the issue

the belt will gradually 'walk off' the pulleys if misaligned

It may well be the clutch plate is slightly dragging (probably due to very little use over the years)...putting some more miles on it should cure that issue. Another thing to also consider is replacing the rear differential fluid as this can lead to similar issues (use only genuine Honda fluid)

I would start by checking the gearbox oil and see if there is enough in there and maybe consider replacing the oil? Another way to avoid the crunching is the using the old method known as double declutching. Or even a slight blip on the throttle on downshifting can also work to eliminate the gear crunching

one of my all-time favourite adverts on TV

I would assume the red warning lamp is a state of charge warning - may need to scan the vehicle to see if there are any fault codes present or live data that can show the charge rate

Not sure of the exact age of your car but the battery must be the original one and been on there for a few years which would be a natural occurrence. However, unless you can see excessive misting up inside the car then I don't imagine there is any water ingress to worry about

Not sure if your i-VTEC engine has a turbo (which could be the cause) but I would highly recommend taking it to a garage to have any fault codes read to determine the exact cause of the issue. Please let us know how you get on with it

Does it judder at a stable speed or when accelerating or decelerating?