Trevor

Great news about the MOT and very interesting research on the car's history....look forward to the next installment

I would start with EuroCarParts and they also have huge discount offers most days If you are after performance parts (lowered springs, uprated dampers, etc) then DemonTweeks is a good company to order parts from

Thanks for posting the pics.....its starting to look good and great colour too.

I would check the door switches first as if any of them are faulty then this could be the reason for the alarm sounding. Open each door in turn and see if the interior light comes on and goes off (including the tailgate) if you find one that doesn't behave as it should then that may be the cause. Also try a battery reset to see if that silences the alarm

I have done that before on a Nissan X-Trail and worked fine. Just keep the inner and outer driveshaft joints where they are and take the shaft out from it

I think all the bases have been covered, bigger battery, software updates on the vehicle....I would definitely invest in a booster pack just in case

As it is a brand new car, I would be tempted to pop back to the dealership to ask them if there is a way to change the view settings

Yellow light means it needs topping up generally

You could try fitting a Kenlowe (or similar) electric fan suitable to fit all vehicles https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/revotec-slimline-cooling-fans-538077/

Give this company a try https://www.iceboxauto.com/iba-honda-entertainment-systems

Cleaning by whichever method is the best way forward and then reset the system sensors to learn the revised flow through the DPF Have you got a garage out there that will clean it (or if it is not a strict regulation out there such as the UK MOT tests, then can you get it cut out and remapped to show its still there? p.s. do you attend Le Mans 24 hours by any chance?

Oh dear that sounds like an absolute nightmare! I know that feeling of 'wished i had never started the job' and it is best sometimes to walk away from it for a while and go back with fresh enthusiasm. As you say you can't find the clip then I wonder if it has actually come out and is on the floor or tucked behind a seal or gearbox casting on the outer area of the box? Primarily if sounds like the shafts didn't fully engage in the first place and quite often need a good thump on the inner driveshaft joint to full go home. When fully home, they shouldn't be able to pull out of the box easily (usually require a prybar or suchlike). I am also thinking, are the shafts exactly the same size and amount of splines as the old ones? If you are struggling you can always use the inners from the old shafts with new gaiters and shaft

Its probably the friction lining material that is squeaking but I wouldn't be spraying WD40 on it though

well at least you stuck with a CRV which is the main thing

Hi.....welcome to the Club The Accord is a great car and you shouldn't have many issues with it Post up some piccys once the mods are done if you want

the CRV (diesel engine - not sure about petrol engine) uses a Dual Mass Flywheel and self adjusting clutch Either you DMF is worn and this is take up in the slack you are experiencing but this would normally be on takeoff in 1st gear The most likely cause is the self adjusting clutch mechanism which gets weak over time (adjusts by sliding up wedges) and can over adjust leading to slippage. It mainly happens when too much power is put onto the transmission when the vehicle is at lower road speeds. Leave changing gear to higher RPM then this usually solves the issue

I wonder if it is an 'average' fuel consumption meter and has settled down after a mixed driving style if you reset it then it may go back to the actual consumption figure Alternatively, a service may be due and the engine oil quality can contribute to a decrease in economy if the cylinder compressions are reduced with the oil not sealing the rings/bore as efficiently

Here is a selection of thermostats available on eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=thermostat&_sacat=0&_from=R40&selcontext=productType%3ACAR_AND_TRUCK&selvel=Variant%3APetrol%2BMPV%2CCar+Make%3AHonda%2CCars+Type%3A1.7%2B16V%2CPlat_Gen%3ARN%2CCars+Year%3A2003%2CBodyStyle%3AFWD%2B--%2BRN%2CModel%3AStream%2CEngine%3A1668cc%2B92KW%2B125HP%2BD17A2%3BD17A5

its usually written in the service book, audio handbook or a separate card in the vehicle wallet If not then the dealer should be able to look up the number (probably for a small charge)

I'm sure if there is corrosion around the area as long as it hasn't gone too deep then possibly it could be taken apart, cleaned up and a new gasket with sealant fitted

Unfortunately, aftermarket parts don't always last the distance like original parts. Can it be welded as this may be sufficient to keep it going as long as there are no leaks

Fine looking machine! How did it get on with the MOT test?

That looks aweful, what ever possessed them to cut it that badly. At the very least I would be tempted to tidy it up with a hacksaw so it doesn't look that bad or maybe put some trim over the edges (I think Halfords sell some door trim that may work)

I would strip the pads out and copperslip the contact points in the caliper carrier bracket then refit to see if that makes a difference

not sure of the differences but worth asking Honda parts department who could give you the relevant part numbers