Trevor

Have you torqued down the sensor bolt? as it is torque sensitive and only minimal amount required - too tight and will sense way too much knock. Also, ensure sensor lead does not go across any other wiring, especially spark plugs leads, etc as sensitive enough to pick up stray signals

I like to call it 'adaptive engineering'

Not sure anything to do with steering that is faulty is good to drive If nothing goes wrong its fine but if you were involved in an accident and it is recorded that there is an issue with the steering then it won't end well

Hi Dave20 .....welcome to the Club Three CR-Vs, you must like them I guess Good to have you onboard!

Hi Terry D ....welcome to the Club definitely a Honda fan then good to have you onboard!

Hi Rich....welcome to the Club Back in the day, oil changes were carried out on petrol engines at around every 6000 miles. Diesel engines weren't so common place back in the early 1980's (taxi's and lorries mostly). The oil would always come out black and oil (and fuel) quality wasn't so good then. If the oil is black then its pretty much doing its job and capturing the carbon deposits within, hence dark colour. My philosphy on a petrol engine is that if the oil has gone quite dark with carbon then I would change it (usually in excess of 5 - 6k miles) along with the filter. A diesel engine would be about the same duration but would turn black a lot sooner as the fuel deposits more soot/carbon than petrol) This would give the modern generation turbos a fighting chance of durability for many years to come.

Hi Rich.....welcome to the Club We have answered your post in the General Discussions section of the forums. Good to have you onboard!

Very true and how times have changed - not always for the best either

It does look like it comes apart? If so, maybe rebuildable - broken internal wire or something simple to repair (possibly?)

I'm sure it takes the water feed from within the front windscreen washer reservoir (when the lights are on and the washers are applied Parts would be OE and no longer available so I imagine so a scrapyard would be best source for replacement jet

Sounds like it may be registering a pressure slightly higher than it should be when the tyres start to get hot. Maybe let some pressure out to the lower recommended setting (e.g. lower load - not full load of luggage and passengers) to see if that makes a difference

Hi....welcome to the Club Hope you get the problem sorted soon and at a reasonable cost

Hi.....and welcome to the Club Very rare car nowadays, haven't seen one in years Good to have you onboard!

Whats wrong with the existing one?

Hi....welcome to the Club Getting to be a very rare sight on the roads nowadays. Good luck with the work on it and shout out if you have any questions

Nice bike...plenty quick enough!

Nice!

Nice machines....big BHP - usually require big wallets as well. Sold all my powerful old cars and now look at economy 🙂

Let us know how it goes - always nice to know the outcome, thanks

You can get a company to make a stainless system with your own choice of 'sound' for not a lot of money (£350'ish for cat-back system)

Sounds like it could be a driveshaft but if constant judder felt through the steering wheel then check out the auxiliary drivebelt for any dimples in the drive-side of the belt....have come across that before and affects the PAS pump enough to give a slight wobble

Thanks for your support to the Club, Alan....sometimes it's not always the technical knowledge that is required to be published within the forums, but just general chat and banter which goes some way to keep it alive!

Thanks so much for the review and feedback on your e:Ny1 ....and I'm not sure anyone is ready for an electric motorbike yet 🙂

Not sure but may be worth leaving in gear also. I do this with all of my cars as I never trust handbrakes to solely hold the car in position (especially when the brakes cool down over time)

Also I think locking the doors by the key locks everything up but doesn't arm the alarm - I believe?