Trevor

Hi....welcome to the Club I wouldn't worry too much about that as long as it hasn't come from somewhere such as the coast or flood plain areas in which case the corrosion could be excessive. Otherwise it has been noted as an advice more than likely but even so it is worth looking at how bad it is, if its surface corrosion then fine and it can be treated, anything deep and metal peeling away then maybe worth walking away from

I have no real idea but at first glance I am thinking if your phone is connected then its showing the battery level ? possibly?

If you can remove the hose and take it to a hydraulic hose repairer they can make you a new one at a fraction of the cost (Hyphose or similar company)

Can't see the connection as the key is doing the job of immobilising the engine to start/turn over. Check the coolant sensor is working within the parameters as it could be giving a false reading to the glow circuit

Did you ever manage to resolve this issue?

Hi Ivor....welcome to the Club Hopefully you can find all the parts and information you require through here Good to have you onboard!

Haven't encountered this issue before but oil quality, condition and level comes to mind as a possible cause

Hi....welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard

Hi....Happy New Year to you also Quite possible requires a new battery if the old one is losing charge over time? Also, check battery lead connections are tight as it does sound like power loss thats leading to these faults

Hi....Happy New Year to you too ! Plenty of info on here for researching the CR-V, to be fair they don't have too many problems. Good to have you onboard!

Hi....welcome to the Club What have you done to the engine? Feel free to dive into answering any questions you can, much appreciated Good to have you onboard!

Hi....welcome to the Club Superb collection of Honda's over the years You can change your Avatar image by going to your profile settings. If you are struggling then post up a photo and i can change it for you Good to have you onboard!

Happy New Year to all and lets hope 2024 is a good one 🙂

Hi Dave.....welcome to the Club It does sounds like fluid as a first thought but may also be the slave cylinder or release bearing inside the gearbox sticking. Its a tough one to diagnose but would also be worth someone looking under the pedals to ensure that nothing is holding the pedal down (piece of trim, etc) Please let us know the outcome of this one

Hi....welcome to the Club I believe I did manage to access the system once many years ago and it was solely through the touch screen. Other alternative methods would be to use a scan tool to reset the oil service (I believe it is in the functions on the iCarSoft scanner I use.

I wonder if the tailgate needs resetting / programming to set it up correctly. Maybe disconnect and reconnect the battery and immediately try closing and opening the tailgate?

Can you not get the cooler repaired?

Watch this video for information on how to fix the fault

Information found on Google: electronically controlled 5-speed automatic transmission (changed to CVT in 2015) Like any automatic transmission they benefit from fluid and filter changes every so often so if the service history shows this then great, if not then maybe book it in at a transmission specialist sometime

Many years ago there used to be specialist radiator repairers around But if you can find a garage skilled enough to solder / plastic weld a hole in the core or tank then it is a cheap and easy job to do

The voltage is sufficient for internal electrics and I would check all earth leads as well as power leads from the battery to ensure there is no corrosion or damage at the connections. As per your other post about the alarm system this could be water ingress affecting your internal lights (dripping down through from windscreen or even heater matrix). Check there are no signs of water tracing underneath the dashboard area.

Is the vehicle battery also in good condition? Sounds silly but try holding the fob to your head and testing the range.....strangely enough it boosts the signal

It could be that the other side is slightly sticking and therefore not being used as effectively as the other side (replaced caliper side) and is colder as a result of this? The rears are not normally running anywhere near as hot as the front (unless fully loaded vehicle)

That doesn't sounds too bad cost wise and to replace in terms of labour It does sounds plausible and also in the colder season it does tend to knock out sensors. Let us know how it all goes and fingers crossed it resolves the issue.....either way at least you get a coolant change which is always an overlooked service item