Trevor

Agreed Esso is probably the best fuel to put in any car (or motorbike) and mostly comparable to Supermarket fuel costs

Sometimes the motor burns out on them Check by putting 12 volts directly to the motor for a couple of seconds max to see if it spins, then work from there

You used to be able to get inserts for the coil springs (like a rubber buffer) but not sure if that sort of thing is available nowadays Otherwise Airbag suspension maybe another option Alternatively, you may be able to get stiffer springs for the rear

Lol...some were worthless, even then but others ..... well as they say "if you knew then what you know now"

Some of those cruise ships need seeing to believe how absolutely enormous they actually are! Must have been an exciting time as a diver and bet you have some tales to tell ?

They do make a hell of a din when driving and definitely best to fit only when you need them

Glad to hear you got it all installed (relatively unscathed) its a bit more of a job trying to find a permanent live in the fusebox though as did one on mine and took me ages to find a live with the multimeter

If the gas is full and no leaks then it has to be the condenser blocked or even the cabin filter not allowing cold air through?

First thoughts are battery condition as any drop in battery voltage if the car hasn't been used for a while can result in the myriad of lights coming on Check the battery and also check any fault codes in the ECU's to give a more accurate diagnosis of the fault

My list is as follows (in no particular order): Triumph Herald (first car), many Rover and MG over the years, lots of American and custom cars, plenty of classic cars, motorbikes and just about anything with wheels. Just wished I had the foresight to keep them all 😞

Quite a selection there Alan....mostly chunky cars in their day and great for carrying stuff around (e.g. no sports cars in that list) 🙂 The irony is that we did have electric cars, buses, invalid cars and even lorries many years ago and we are now reinventing the wheel....very badly!

From memory they would be an M6 nut (which is 10mm head for the socket)

Hi 2bTom ....welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard

Hi....welcome to the Club parts for older Honda models are seemingly getting harder to find just lately Hopefully there are still spares in scrapyards although they too are fading into the past now with stricter rules on pollution and safety factors

Generally a diesel engine needs to be run hard and they are governed to avoid over-revving so are safe to run fast If the engine is not pushed then the carbon from burnt fuel clogs up injectors, EGR, DPF, inlet manifolds and this reduces performance and costs lots in repairs If the engine is run at low revs then pushed hard in a high gear then this means the engine can usually deliver the power by way of the turbo but also causes the Dual Mass Flywheel (DMF) and clutch to slip, also costing money The trick is to keep the revs high in the appropriate gear until you change up and if cruising on the motorway then fine to change up and lower the revs but at any opportunity to give it a clear out (slip roads are a favourite)

There is a website called The Wayback Machine which allows you to look at old websites during certain time periods so you might be able to find the site and source the information even though its not around anymore

try SatNav update sites cheaper than Honda ones

Can't see any parking sensor switches there

To be fair, the rear drums would be almost as efficient as the disc set up but cannot disperse heat so well, maybe an issue if towing heavy loads

Worth pulling the audio fuse to see if the drain is still there

I don't see a problem with securing a small bracket for the sensor rod it is not carrying any excessive loads so should be okay as long as you don't compromise the security or construction of the lower suspension arm (e.g. drilling holes, etc)

If it is a part that can be removed then you may be able to find someone to 3D print a new one

I believe the siren is in the boot area - anyone know exactly where?? I would try to disconnect, leave off for a while and reconnect (negative lead first off and last on) then upon reconnecting lock the drivers door on the key Try the fob unlock and lock buttons a few times until they are recognised Then switch the ignition on and hopefully that should do it If the fobs don't work then go straight to the ignition with the key and see if you can programme the fobs later

I have previously sprayed any part of the linkage (inside and under the bonnet especially) and still found it to be a little stiff. Slower gear changes are in order with the CR-V and I think its the sort of vehicle that requires that style of driving. Other cars I own are superb at quick changes but then they are made for that or at least encourages you to drive them like that 🙂

not sure if you have now managed to resolve this but I wired one into my 2007 CR-V and it was a nightmare to find a permanent live in the fusebox but got one in the end, sorry can't remember which one it was though If you do find out which one you tapped into the please let us know as this question comes up quite a lot in this forum