Trevor

Please let us know what you eventually find

Welcome to the Club I would check the springs and dampers on each of the wheels to ensure there is no damage as sounds like it could have pothole damage occurred which is causing the noise Not sure about the wheel fitment but definitely worth a try to see if they fit and what they look like first before committing to them and spacers

It will more than likely have a certain amount of CanBus within the wiring system for a vehicle of that age. The easiest way to identify if it is CanBus wiring you are tapping into is it will more than likely be 'twisted pair' wires and as long as it doesn't have any yellow covering over the wires which is usually SRS and should not be interfered with in any way Usually, with CanBus wired ancillaries, they will need programming into the vehicle for identification into the system

sounds like a starter motor relay sticking?

thanks, would be interesting to know what the fault is

I would stick to genuine Honda fluid or an equivalent and its possible to source OE fluids from eBay for very reasonable price, I have done this for CR-V rear diff fluid and got it cheaper than non-OE fluid There is a link at the top of this page you can use to find the fluids and at a discount rate

i personally dont like the new style silicone blades but much prefer old style metal blades which tend to apply more pressure to the blade contact to the screen

Hi .... welcome to the Club Wow! that looks amazing, can't remember the last time I saw one on the road Good to have you onboard! Feel free to answer any CR-X related issues as I'm sure you'll have the answers

Hi Dave....welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!

My money is on the rear diff oil needing replacement which will cure the issue....takes a short while for it to settle down then the issue goes away completely

If you were to disconnect a fuel hose, say going into the fuel filter or fuel rail (before it gets into the engine/injectors, etc) then switch the ignition on then the fuel should flow into a container via the fuel pump. If not then there are companies that can evacuate the fuel safely and will do it on your driveway. Ensure that the vehicle has ample airflow to avoid any build up of flammable vapours and nothing that can create a spark

They are usually very tight indeed and should be right hand thread, it would only really be left hand thread if the pulley was rotating in the opposite direction to the bolt thread in which case it could unwind the bolt. Maybe use a small amount of studlock or nutlock when refitting to ensure it stays in place

Possible causes could be faulty crankshaft sensor but this would come up with a fault code in memory if scanned. Otherwise the other potential fault is the fuel filter needs replacement (on the earlier ones you could tell if this was the case as the pump up rubber bulb by the filter would feel soft but when it was pumped the pressure would be felt as the bulb firmed up and the engine would start fine for a while

I would start with any switches that are located in the roof mechanism and in particular the boot area which would sense if there is an obstruction (e.g. shopping) and there is enough space for the roof to retract

Hi....welcome to the Club I can see what you're saying but to be fair most cars all the look like their from the same mould nowadays The Jazz does however (in my mind) have the technological advancements that some other manufacturers do not and are always sought after so resale is normally superb if you don't like it https://www.honda.co.uk/cars/new/jazz-hybrid/jazz-hybrid-coming-soon.html

I thing maybe down to programming it. Seem to recall something like - Ignition on while holding down button till the window drops all the way down. Switch off then just touch the button once to go down rather than holding it down for the duration.....or something like that?

The only time I have experienced something like this before was when I replaced an alternator many years ago and baffled me as to why the battery light stayed on at idle speed. Simple answer was wrong size pulley and the alternator wasn't spinning enough speed at idle to switch the regulator to charge.

You can advertise it in the For Sale section of this forum if you want https://uk.hondaownersclub.com/forums/forum/58-hondas-for-sale/

Try this company https://www.iceboxauto.com/honda-in-car-entertainment-systems-category

I know that with some video connections to your phone the car needs to either have the engine off or at least the handbrake on for the system to know the vehicle is stationary. Also the phone may have a setting to know that you are in a car but wanting to watch video but doesn't know you're not the driver so look at these settings first

Thanks for the update BAZZER RN 1 lets hope that does the job

I don't know that garage personally but have heard good things. It would also be wise to get the rear diff oil changed sometimes as this is a common thing with CR-V's where you get a clunking from the rear diff when you turn hard left or right at slow speed. Special Honda oil unfortunately but easy enough job to replace and makes a world of difference

sounds like a defective alternator or the wiring is the fault?

Just up the road then! That would be interesting to know if it makes any difference, it could do if the level is low Where are you taking it? Poole or Brockenhurst?