Trevor

They will try to sell you a Dual Mass Flywheel sometimes even if its not needed Unless it is worn (e.g clunking when the engine switches off) or you think its worth is while the gearbox is off?

Try a secondhand key and transfer the blade and the electronics over

WikiOBD is a site which will show you the location If not got OBD then the older system was flash codes on the ECU mounted under the passenger footwell carpet

Not heard of that one Can't see how debris from the cambelt could enter into the oil system though?

See link: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2499334.m570.l1313&_nkw=38810-RZ0-E01&_sacat=131090

I wouldn't have thought the car would have had a DPF at 2005 as they came in around late 2007?

Can you upload a photo of the switch

Maybe it needs a bit more charge by taking it on a good fast run during the day without lights, etc I'm sure the software update will have cracked the issue though

I wonder if it could be the wiring to the switch in the boot lid that is faulty. If you pull back the rubber trunking that connects the boot lid and see if there are any broken wires in there

I have seen them for sale on eBay over the years but not seen an advert for any for some time

Hopefully you'll have many trouble free years of motoring ahead of you

That sounds very much like a crankshaft position sensor which fails when hot and when allowed to cool the sensor functions as normal

I had to probe all the fuses to find one that was a permanent live as most switched over when ignition was off

It is a 2wd and 4wd all at the same time! Basically, it runs 2wd (on the front) and then if the traction disappears on the rear then the 4wd comes in to drive the rear axle to gain traction (assuming the tyres are up to it) It works hydraulically and most of the time you won't know its there except for when you turn onto your driveway and if the fluid needs replacing you'll hear a clonking noise

Hi Mark59 ... welcome to the Club Same as I had.....superb car and never let me down

I would imagine if the resistance values are the same for the OE part and an aftermarket one that 'fits the hole' then it should be okay to use as its only measuring the gas temperature and all exhaust temp sensors would read about the same temp for the gases

EBC components are good quality and have used them extensively for replacement parts in the past

Hi John....welcome to the Club A local Motor Factors such as EuroCarParts may be able to help you with these parts or at least point you in the right direction

Have a look behind the headlamp assembly for any levers that can switch the beam Chances are not, as it is a Japanese produced vehicle and only for RHD market I would guess

I would be tempted to part with it and cut your losses Let someone else go through the expense and time of doing it up and start afresh

Sounds like you may have picked up some contaminated fuel and this is filling the canister with water content I would get this attended to sooner than later but not sure if you can reach below the filter to drain it down yourself?

First thought is a wheel bearing (probably Nearside Front - if it disappears when you steer left) Definitely worth having that checked first

Sometimes if the front brake pads have been replaced at some point in time then worth checking that the pad(s) not moving due to part of the fitting kit missing

See the post below yours