Trevor

Thanks for letting us know the outcome, fingers crossed it will be okay for some time now

The code translates as a faulty Evaporative Emission System Shutoff Valve 2 or the wiring associated with it Would check the wiring first as may have been inadvertently disconnected while changing the fuel filter possibly?

You can try this one? Sometimes the system doesn't like non genuine discs but worth a try at that cost https://www.satnavishop.co.uk/honda-v3c0-navigation--map-dvd-sat-nav-update-disc-2018-181-p.asp

The seat shouldn't be an issue unless it is vastly different to the seat the other side. The seatbelt is secured to the floor and that is what is retaining the passenger but the seat back should also be secure so maybe not latched in properly?

Could you upload a photo of the fusebox cover so we can see the relay locations

Lower Valance is what i would call it Look on eBay for some screws that look similar always loads of fasteners on there

It sounds like the clutch driven plate and the friction lining they use is making the noise Sometimes it can occur when the clutch is slipped and the material is dragged across the pressure plate and causes this noise. It should be okay for normal use for some time but avoid slipping the clutch if you can

Please let us know what you eventually find

Welcome to the Club I would check the springs and dampers on each of the wheels to ensure there is no damage as sounds like it could have pothole damage occurred which is causing the noise Not sure about the wheel fitment but definitely worth a try to see if they fit and what they look like first before committing to them and spacers

It will more than likely have a certain amount of CanBus within the wiring system for a vehicle of that age. The easiest way to identify if it is CanBus wiring you are tapping into is it will more than likely be 'twisted pair' wires and as long as it doesn't have any yellow covering over the wires which is usually SRS and should not be interfered with in any way Usually, with CanBus wired ancillaries, they will need programming into the vehicle for identification into the system

sounds like a starter motor relay sticking?

thanks, would be interesting to know what the fault is

I would stick to genuine Honda fluid or an equivalent and its possible to source OE fluids from eBay for very reasonable price, I have done this for CR-V rear diff fluid and got it cheaper than non-OE fluid There is a link at the top of this page you can use to find the fluids and at a discount rate

i personally dont like the new style silicone blades but much prefer old style metal blades which tend to apply more pressure to the blade contact to the screen

Hi .... welcome to the Club Wow! that looks amazing, can't remember the last time I saw one on the road Good to have you onboard! Feel free to answer any CR-X related issues as I'm sure you'll have the answers

Hi Dave....welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!

My money is on the rear diff oil needing replacement which will cure the issue....takes a short while for it to settle down then the issue goes away completely

If you were to disconnect a fuel hose, say going into the fuel filter or fuel rail (before it gets into the engine/injectors, etc) then switch the ignition on then the fuel should flow into a container via the fuel pump. If not then there are companies that can evacuate the fuel safely and will do it on your driveway. Ensure that the vehicle has ample airflow to avoid any build up of flammable vapours and nothing that can create a spark

They are usually very tight indeed and should be right hand thread, it would only really be left hand thread if the pulley was rotating in the opposite direction to the bolt thread in which case it could unwind the bolt. Maybe use a small amount of studlock or nutlock when refitting to ensure it stays in place

Possible causes could be faulty crankshaft sensor but this would come up with a fault code in memory if scanned. Otherwise the other potential fault is the fuel filter needs replacement (on the earlier ones you could tell if this was the case as the pump up rubber bulb by the filter would feel soft but when it was pumped the pressure would be felt as the bulb firmed up and the engine would start fine for a while

I would start with any switches that are located in the roof mechanism and in particular the boot area which would sense if there is an obstruction (e.g. shopping) and there is enough space for the roof to retract

Hi....welcome to the Club I can see what you're saying but to be fair most cars all the look like their from the same mould nowadays The Jazz does however (in my mind) have the technological advancements that some other manufacturers do not and are always sought after so resale is normally superb if you don't like it https://www.honda.co.uk/cars/new/jazz-hybrid/jazz-hybrid-coming-soon.html

I thing maybe down to programming it. Seem to recall something like - Ignition on while holding down button till the window drops all the way down. Switch off then just touch the button once to go down rather than holding it down for the duration.....or something like that?

The only time I have experienced something like this before was when I replaced an alternator many years ago and baffled me as to why the battery light stayed on at idle speed. Simple answer was wrong size pulley and the alternator wasn't spinning enough speed at idle to switch the regulator to charge.