Trevor

Hi....welcome to the Club We had that model as a family car and it was superb Feel free to dive in and answer any posts if you like

Sounds like the ABS is invoking when moving slow. Check the reluctor rings (toothed wheel) on the end of the driveshafts for build up of debris or grease. Also, check the tyre sizes are the same and inflation is correct Beyond that I would check the sensors for resistance with a multimeter and look for any damage to them and the cables leading to the sensors

I think I would be tempted to put it on eBay and have a high reserve so at least you can see what it bids to then remove it from sale if not high enough bids received. This way it would gauge the value that people would be interested in paying for it

They should do I imagine, best people to ask would be your local Motor Factors as they can look at cross-referencing of parts and see if compatible

Now that report tells a tale, the Lambda reading shows 1.09 which is outside of the operational parameters due mainly to excess oxygen levels and the sensor informing to the injectors to run rich. Look for an oxygen leak in the exhaust system starting from the manifold where it bolts to the head and work your way down the system (make sure you check the catalytic converter joints and bolts to ensure gas tight and place a rag over the rear to listen for hissing. A four gas or five gas test would show the oxygen levels high and this is more than likely the issue

I still maintain that I would not replace any components until the Oxygen / CO2 levels have been checked. Typically the Oxygen level should be as close to zero (0) as possible and the CO2 should be around 16% (from memory). A pre-test MOT emissions check should reveal the result. If the oxygen level is much higher than zero then you are drawing air through a poor weld, split or crack in the exhaust system or a poor joint/gasket and the result is what you are describing

Usually it is on the outside of the lens and is easily (depends on your commitment and stamina) to polish it up using T-Cut or even with a dedicated cleaning kit that is widely available https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2499334.m570.l1313&_nkw=headlamp+cleaning+kit&_sacat=131090

I used a tuning box on my diesel CR-V and it was absolutely superb increase in performance and economy but the clutch started to slip so removed it (self adjusting clutch which doesn't like increased torque lower down)

You can still find replacement parts and not that expensive through eBay Give it a try first before condemning the car to the scrapyard but there should be quite a bit of interest in an early Civic if you want to advertise it for sale

Wow! an original Prelude VTEC 4WS, haven't seen one of those in a very long time. Great car in the day and the 4WS really worked incredibly well. I have used ABS sensors from the same car but another side (means you have to coil up the lead if longer but works fine)

I would confirm with a local Motor Factor as they can reference the part numbers for the struts

Hi.....welcome to the Club Had a look at the advert on eBay for the Jordan Civic and have to say would have loved one of those back in the day, opted for a Rover BRM in the end and was chuffed to bits with it. Good to have you onboard!

Hi....welcome to the Club ...and welcome back to the wonderful world of Honda !

If its running through a proper Cigar Lighter adapter then it will be fine, USB will also work but see your apprehension with using higher voltage, but its also about the current being correct, Cigar Lighter adapter will charge your phone quicker I believe

'B' mode ramps up the regenerative braking which can improve fuel economy and save wear on the brakes. It is recommended using this when you're driving in heavy traffic around town or travelling down a steep hill

An auxiliary drivebelt of any make should be fine so you could probably get one from EuroCarParts who can match something up to the one you have fitted

Hi Budgie....welcome to the Club The Civic hybrid is a great car and should go on for many years without issue Good to have you onboard

I would pop it into the dealer or any garage that has a scanner then they can look at any fault codes to determine where the fault lies

Eurocarparts is another supplier worth trying

The Catman may be a suitable supplier or even Eurocarparts may be able to provide one at a lot cheaper price than the dealer

That's a tough one and probably worth trying to replace just the motor as opposed to the whole rack I would also imagine it would need programming to know the dead centre position, etc and later governed by the sensors once the system is active

you can post it in the For Sale section of this forum Someone may want it to repair or spares

I would try eBay to look for anything similar (may have been another Honda model or even an earlier year) Too good to scrap for that part alone

Hi....welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!