Trevor

Quite a selection there Alan....mostly chunky cars in their day and great for carrying stuff around (e.g. no sports cars in that list) 🙂 The irony is that we did have electric cars, buses, invalid cars and even lorries many years ago and we are now reinventing the wheel....very badly!

From memory they would be an M6 nut (which is 10mm head for the socket)

Hi 2bTom ....welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard

Hi....welcome to the Club parts for older Honda models are seemingly getting harder to find just lately Hopefully there are still spares in scrapyards although they too are fading into the past now with stricter rules on pollution and safety factors

Generally a diesel engine needs to be run hard and they are governed to avoid over-revving so are safe to run fast If the engine is not pushed then the carbon from burnt fuel clogs up injectors, EGR, DPF, inlet manifolds and this reduces performance and costs lots in repairs If the engine is run at low revs then pushed hard in a high gear then this means the engine can usually deliver the power by way of the turbo but also causes the Dual Mass Flywheel (DMF) and clutch to slip, also costing money The trick is to keep the revs high in the appropriate gear until you change up and if cruising on the motorway then fine to change up and lower the revs but at any opportunity to give it a clear out (slip roads are a favourite)

There is a website called The Wayback Machine which allows you to look at old websites during certain time periods so you might be able to find the site and source the information even though its not around anymore

try SatNav update sites cheaper than Honda ones

Can't see any parking sensor switches there

To be fair, the rear drums would be almost as efficient as the disc set up but cannot disperse heat so well, maybe an issue if towing heavy loads

Worth pulling the audio fuse to see if the drain is still there

I don't see a problem with securing a small bracket for the sensor rod it is not carrying any excessive loads so should be okay as long as you don't compromise the security or construction of the lower suspension arm (e.g. drilling holes, etc)

If it is a part that can be removed then you may be able to find someone to 3D print a new one

I believe the siren is in the boot area - anyone know exactly where?? I would try to disconnect, leave off for a while and reconnect (negative lead first off and last on) then upon reconnecting lock the drivers door on the key Try the fob unlock and lock buttons a few times until they are recognised Then switch the ignition on and hopefully that should do it If the fobs don't work then go straight to the ignition with the key and see if you can programme the fobs later

I have previously sprayed any part of the linkage (inside and under the bonnet especially) and still found it to be a little stiff. Slower gear changes are in order with the CR-V and I think its the sort of vehicle that requires that style of driving. Other cars I own are superb at quick changes but then they are made for that or at least encourages you to drive them like that 🙂

not sure if you have now managed to resolve this but I wired one into my 2007 CR-V and it was a nightmare to find a permanent live in the fusebox but got one in the end, sorry can't remember which one it was though If you do find out which one you tapped into the please let us know as this question comes up quite a lot in this forum

would love to be able to train my cat but i actually think its a role reversal 🙂 sorry, got to rush, she wants her lunch now

I've sent you a message

Welcome to the Club Alan....good to have you onboard!

Go to your account settings (top right corner of screen) and you should be able to edit them from there. If you can't do it then Message me through to my account and I can guide you through it further

The guides do say 6 years or 75000 miles whichever is sooner I would not let the belt get that close to the wire as it is then borrowed time and nothing to gain except for delaying the inevitable

You could see what IceBox Autos have on offer for your car https://www.iceboxauto.com/iba-honda-entertainment-systems#/specFilters=2!#-!468!-#!1!#-!19 By far way better than the original Honda equipment fitted as standard and more updatable at no (or little) cost The TDI tuning boxes work very well and used one on my CR-V to great effect, can also highly recommend them

Thanks for letting us know, shame no one could have saved it from the scrappy though 😞

There's quite a selection on eBay - Mannol oil is as good as original Honda oil specs https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2499334.m570.l1313&_nkw=ATF-DW1&_sacat=131090

Good work! Don't think i could manage to maneouver my way under a dashboard anymore you must be more supple than me then 🙂 Let's hope it stays working for quite a while longer

That's a very handy tip there BAZZER RN 1 I have used silicon to good effect on suspension rubbers (mainly strut top mounts if you can get enough in there as hard to access) when they get 'dry' and start creaking. Anyone who has had an Alfa Romeo will know what I mean 🙂