Trevor

Honda is to recall around 78,000 CR-V models in the UK after a possible fire risk was established. A gap between the car’s window switch prompted fear that liquid could cause a short circuit. Honda warns that it would even “catch fire” in extreme circumstances. In a statement, a Honda spokesperson said: “In 2012 Butyl tape was applied to the power window master switch (PWMS) as part of a market safety recall to prevent liquid exposure to the inside of the PWMS. “However a gap could exist between the applied Butyl tape and PWMS case, liquid could then accumulate in that gap and over time this could lead to liquid entering into the PWMS. “Once liquid enters into the PWMS a short circuit could occur, after that there is a possibility that migration advances and heat is generated causing the PWMS to melt and expand. “This could then lead to the PWMS and adjacent parts to overheat, smoke and in worst case catch fire. “The owners of all affected vehicles are to be notified by letter and asked to take their vehicle to an authorised Honda dealer or repairer. “The technician will replace the PWMS with a counter measured part free of charge.” As of this November, Honda said it was aware of 23 reported fires linked to the issue and 87 reports of “thermal events” which may be related to the problem.

That sounds a great result....can I ask how much it costs?

Hi.....welcome to the Forums It should share the same fuse as the normal brake lights. Check that the wiring is okay in the rubber trunking that articulates when the tailgate is opened and closed. Try keeping the brake pedal depressed and wiggle the wiring to see if the light flickers on/off. If not, then pull back the gaiter and see if any wires are broken

Hi...welcome to the Forums That is a huge amount of money for a service on a CR-V The filters are easy enough to replace yourself. As are some of the fluids. The rear diff fluid you can buy from eBay but make sure its the correct one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Honda-CRV-Rear-Differential-Oil-Honda-Dual-Pump-Fluid/254743702377?epid=1415923714&hash=item3b4fe86b69:g:1k0AAOSwbdpWXdDi Again, easy enough to change if you can access the underside of the vehicle. You shouldn't have any problem with the cabin filter and the plugs are easy enough....just don't over-tighten the new ones

Thanks for the info Pompey Andy I forgot about the Diff Oil change. Have noticed that some CR-Vs are suffering from front struts....think it is a weight issue with the lumpy diesel engine causing them to blow out and leak oil.

Hi Srini.....welcome to the Forum Hope you enjoy the Jazz, great little car and should give you years of trouble-free motoring 🙂

If it is the driveshaft that is out of balance then you can prove this by placing a jubilee clip around mid way along the shaft and see if this cures the imbalance. You can adjust the point of balance and even add a washer or coin under the clip to counterbalance the shaft. We used to use this technique on propshafts to find the imbalance and then weld a weight onto the shaft in the correct place

I have experienced this with mine and it seems to have done this for years and not got any worse

Try looking in the menu for sound settings, think I managed to sort this issue a long time ago....can't remember any more about it though, sorry 😞

Try these guys https://www.iceboxauto.com/honda

Hi...welcome to the forum How are you getting on with the CR-V? Sorry for the late reply but here it is: No issues to be aware of as long as the car has been treated well and maintained as it should be. It has a timing chain and doesn't suffer from any issues. Generally the CR-V is a superb car and mine has never let me down

Hi.....welcome to the Forum Not sure if you have resolved this issue yet? Sounds like the clutch release bearing running against the clutch cover. In the worse case scenario the bearing can drill through the clutch cover. You must ensure that you are not resting your foot on the clutch pedal when driving as the working clearance is taken up and the release bearing is then running at engine speed constantly which it is not designed to do. Usually the noise disappears when you depress the clutch pedal and this is then usually a sign that the release bearing is worn.

Hi....welcome to the Forum Not sure if you have resolved the issue yet? It sounds more likely the vehicle battery at fault as this can cause issues with the locking and immobiliser. If the battery fails a deep discharge test and also bear in mind the cold weather will definitely affect battery performance then I would replace it with a quality item. Halfords can test and replace your battery at a reasonable cost

can you estimate approximate road speed when it occurs?

Hi Kathleen Most window tint film nowadays as long as it is applied correctly

Hi.....here is a solution http://www.catsafe.org.uk/

Hi....welcome to the Forum I think Hondas just keep getting better as the years go on...enjoy!

Hi.....welcome to the Forum Is it vehicle speed related rather than gears and revs? e.g. is it at 60mph and then disappears as you get to about 70mph If so, then it is a static wheel imbalance and need to balance the front wheels

Hi....welcome to the forum Feel free to post up some photos of the Pilot

Have you checked the alternator output because if it is charging excessively high rate then this could blow the fuse with a surge of current. Should be putting out around 14.5 volts

Thanks for the heads up...hopefully this defect will be addressed by the manufacture soon enough

The old Accord was a very reliable car but is now getting harder to obtain parts for (new and used). From memory, there wasn't much mechanically that went wrong

Hi......welcome to the forum Thats a shame that they couldn't repair it properly but then I suppose the price would have been a lot higher? Ask away and hopefully someone should be able to help you with your questions

Hi....welcome to the forum Mostly the problem stems from the connection(s) under the seat to the pre-tensioner seatbelt stalk. Unplug (with the ignition off for 30 minutes at least) and plug back in after twisting the wire a complete turn to load the connection and make better contact....this usually works