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dewi9uk

Cannot lock car with fob

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My battery died after leaving the car for three weeks without using it, then having a sharp frost (one or other killed it). Had to buy new battery and then had problems.

 

First problem was fobs did not work. Key would unlock drivers door, could start car and drive it OK, tailgate would not open. Went to local Honda dealer.

 

Dealer recoded fobs(2) and reported problem with tailgate latch switch not operating. Needs new one - £537 fitted !! Bought replacement from breakers, latch worked OK according to dash lights.

 

Fob would then operate doors (unlock only) and tailgate(tourer). However, still could not lock car with fob.

 

Dash tells me that all door switches work correctly (shows doors open/close on display with ign on and doors opened/shut to test).

 

So, where do I go now ? Dealer says locking fault is usually door switches else could be long investigation and possible module/s change job (at gerat expense).

 

Can anyone advise please.

 

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It sounds like the reprogramming did not entirely go to plan.

Now the tailgate issue is resolved then it may be worth going back to the dealer to ask them to re-run the key fob programming to see if that makes a difference.

 

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Thanks Trevor. Going back to dealer may involve another £35  ..

 

Have currently got another problem - battery keeps discharging itself over a few days (3 or 4). Looks like about 0.45amp draw with nothing on and car locked.

 

Recharged battery (from 11v) and started pulling fuses. F15 under bonnet cuts draw to zero. Fuse is labelled 'Back Up Acc' in owners book.

 

I am wondering if this is the battery pack in the alarm module, wherever that is hidden. If so then it might not be sending the 'doors locked' signal so fob will operate. Thsi battery might have died due to car battery dying ?

 

Sorry, just a thought at the moment. Will continue research and chasing via WWW.

 

David

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I think I would carry out a deep discharge test on the battery and see if it is up to the mark.
if not, then it won't be able to recover from a discharge (which a healthy battery would). if it is below par then I would replace it with a quality battery.

 

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You've probably sorted it by now, but I had similar problem. My car would draw 250mA when off and locked...I only noticed as I couldn't use it for a few days as I had sent the abs pump off to be fixed. Car only just started, so I looked into it, for me it was the bluetooth/voice control unit circuit board...wasn't shutting off properly for some reason.

Couldn't find a new/used unit for a good price so found the permanent 12v to the board, snipped it and connected to 12v ignition, so only comes on when driving...

 

P.s. the alarm battery backup is inside the alarm itself...

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