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This is not a step-by-step, just a brief overview aimed at pretty competent mechanics ; I could have done with this info to speed up changing mine. Honda wanted 1.100€ here, parts and labour ; the same Denso DAN985 is available on the net for 246€, it took me 4 hours including making the belt-tensioner tool, and next time would be less than half that. There's a series of pictures on the French Cardisiac forum, here, with a French text that is pretty inaccurate. https://forum-auto.caradisiac.com/topic/93607-tuto-révision-complète-honda-frv/page/2/ Look around 18th October 2018. It also shows the revised belt-layout which all cars have probably had done, by now, but if you've got the superfluous jockey pulley and longer belt still, ditch the pulley and change the belt for the shorter type. Basically you need to get the header-tank and power-steering reservoir loose, and pull them to your right to get access to the belt. Removing the belt tension requires a 14mm socket welding to a bit of 30 to 50cm flat strip, something like 30mm x 4mm is good, the socket will need the square cutting off so you've just got the 6 or 12-points, thinking about it 12 is a lot better as you haven't got an awful lot of movement available and the inclination is important. Your tool is pulled forward, the belt slackens, and you can slip it off. Photograph the bonnet lock position, pay attention to the adjustment marks, run a pen around the plate, it will avoid having to readjust everything afterwards ; then remove the 2 x M6 from the front and the 1 x M6 from the back. Then get off the plastic shroud over the front traverse, followed by the top radiator support brackets, and the front traverse unbolted and pulled font-left (it won't come off completely as there's the bonnet-cable and harness fastened underneath). Remove the top radiator-to-header-tank hose at the radiator, block the rad stub with a blind bit of pipe, and kink/strap the hose to keep all liquids in. The RHS (in car) cooling fan block has to be removed ; it's held in by 2 bolts top, 2 bolts bottom, one pipe-retention bolt on far RHS, all 10mm socket on small 1/4 ratchet. Find all the electrical sockets-plugs on that fan block, there are 4 maybe 5, unplug them all, WD40 everywhere helps dismantling. It's a bitch to get out, get lots of light down there to see what's snagging, and mind you don't break the rad header stub at the top. Once dragged up and right, the alternator comes off with 4 x 12mm headed bolts, watch the lengths, the 3 long ones are of 2 different lengths. REMOVING IT IS TIGHT and best protect the rad fins with a bit of thin alloy/zinc/steel sheet as you will scrape these badly trying to fight the alternator up past the air-con hose, the sheet will help it slide. Re-fitting is simple reverse of the above ; grease all your M6 bolts going back together, much easier to reassemble. You'll probably break almost all of the pip-clips both on the top plastic cover and the lip under the rad where you'll need to pop some out to get access to the bottom ; it's a good idea to buy 20 of these off Ebay as they're needed everywhere on these cars. Apologies if I've forgotten anything, it'll be minor and self-evident.

I joined the forum just recently but can't help noticing many questions/queries go unanswered. Is this a new site that hasn't picked up many members yet? Honda's are so common I would expect to see many posts every day. Am I missing something?

Silicon spray is quite safe to use unlike WD40 as it is not oil based and you can liberally spray it under the dash

Good idea, I may just try that.

This is true, and the Lexus forums I know are buzzing. The more posts on here would rank the site higher in Google searches so I guess with more posts the site would be more 'viewable' to the masses. I still maintain that forums are still the way forwards as social media is very transient, the info is there one day and gone the next 😞

And yesterday which was a mild morning the sound was noticeably quieter, so definitely affected more by the cold.

It's interesting though. I was on a Volvo forum for a while and daily there would be many posts, and I was also a member of a Lexus forum and still lots of daily new posts, even though Lexus are less common.

Hi Sparkpea .....welcome to the club. Pee Gee is correct in what he is suggesting and also consider looking at weak rubber brake hoses which can also balloon out and lose hydraulic pressure. A very careful examination of the entire braking system is required and quite frankly for a 2010 CR-V I would be surprised if there is much else majorly wrong with it apart from simple maintenance items that have been overlooked during a service, etc. Other things to check would be the master cylinder losing pressure between the two internal seals.....would not lose fluid externally but pressure goes past the primary and secondary seals and gives these symptoms. More basic things to check would be the calipers and hoses, brake load sensing valve is not seized (if applicable), brake pads are not seized in the carrier and therefore not able to retract and return therefore requiring extra presses of the brake pedal to encourage the braking pressure to be present. Let us know what you find to be the issue.

The problem for any forum is Facebook since 10 years ago...

I have read something similar so hopefully it's normal, it is quite loud sometimes though, although it does go after a short time. Thanks.

the Matrix will have to pipes inlet/outlet if you can feel the inlet when engine is hot then the outlet and they are not both the same temperature the Matrix is blocked and needs to be replaced or cleaned out as the pipes in the core block up and restrict the flow

Surely if you can pump the brakes it suggests there's air in the system? I've even seen caliper seals puffed up like small balloons, just holding the fluid. Is the mechanic someone you trust?

It's indeed a pretty brilliant design ; it's not as good as the Multipla (have had two) in some key respects (latter has better side visibility, better exterior mirrors for parking, better seating positions, especially for longer leg drivers, and its throttle position is more comfortable) but is of immeasurably better quality, the Multipla requiring - for example - frequent front-suspension triangle replacement, they suffer from bi-mass flywheel issues etc and the general reliability is poor. The only downside of the 2.2 Diesel is it's very thirsty. Over here (France) you can still get circa 100.000 km FR-V's for around 6-7k€

I loved loved both of mine. It's a great design.

Hi Dreg; I have had from new a 1999 Civic coupe. B16A2 VTEC engine. The Manufacturers plate says 1HG EM1. These were imported from the USA and 'How many are left' site says 20 licenced. They may not all be Coupes. Mine was exhibited at the Goodwood car club Breakfast show last Sunday.

I think that I could be of help,having an extensive automobile background, and very inventive.

how much do you want for your car? wendy