Trevor

That's a difficult one (but not impossible I'm sure) as it is a Japanese import and they were not designed to run anything other than domestic market language software. An aftermarket audio system (double DIN if it fits) would be the best way forward as you can use Apps for SatNav and lots of other features the original unit would not have installed.

Please let us know what they find

Glad it was a simple fix and now secured Goodness knows how the tester would get on with an early Land Rover seats 🙂

A search in google may come up with some solutions for finding a code that will work Otherwise the card in the handbook (if there) should give the code

Thanks for the excellent feedback BAZZER RN 1 its always nice to know about a brand that I am unfamiliar with. I too especially hate the noise from the silicon blades that are fitted to my current car and want to swap them out as soon as possible, even though they do work effectively. Will give them a try in the next few weeks although it probably won't rain now until September 🙂

Thanks for the photo I do wonder if there is any water ingress into the fusebox as it is in the scuttle area where the water could enter into the fusebox and contaminate the relays. I would remove the relays one by one and examine them for any corrosion of possible contamination from water ingress. Also check the terminals in the fusebox as well and maybe if there is some contamination then apply silicon to the fusebox cover before refitting

Thanks for letting us know the outcome, fingers crossed it will be okay for some time now

The code translates as a faulty Evaporative Emission System Shutoff Valve 2 or the wiring associated with it Would check the wiring first as may have been inadvertently disconnected while changing the fuel filter possibly?

You can try this one? Sometimes the system doesn't like non genuine discs but worth a try at that cost https://www.satnavishop.co.uk/honda-v3c0-navigation--map-dvd-sat-nav-update-disc-2018-181-p.asp

The seat shouldn't be an issue unless it is vastly different to the seat the other side. The seatbelt is secured to the floor and that is what is retaining the passenger but the seat back should also be secure so maybe not latched in properly?

Could you upload a photo of the fusebox cover so we can see the relay locations

Lower Valance is what i would call it Look on eBay for some screws that look similar always loads of fasteners on there

It sounds like the clutch driven plate and the friction lining they use is making the noise Sometimes it can occur when the clutch is slipped and the material is dragged across the pressure plate and causes this noise. It should be okay for normal use for some time but avoid slipping the clutch if you can

Please let us know what you eventually find

Welcome to the Club I would check the springs and dampers on each of the wheels to ensure there is no damage as sounds like it could have pothole damage occurred which is causing the noise Not sure about the wheel fitment but definitely worth a try to see if they fit and what they look like first before committing to them and spacers

It will more than likely have a certain amount of CanBus within the wiring system for a vehicle of that age. The easiest way to identify if it is CanBus wiring you are tapping into is it will more than likely be 'twisted pair' wires and as long as it doesn't have any yellow covering over the wires which is usually SRS and should not be interfered with in any way Usually, with CanBus wired ancillaries, they will need programming into the vehicle for identification into the system

sounds like a starter motor relay sticking?

thanks, would be interesting to know what the fault is

I would stick to genuine Honda fluid or an equivalent and its possible to source OE fluids from eBay for very reasonable price, I have done this for CR-V rear diff fluid and got it cheaper than non-OE fluid There is a link at the top of this page you can use to find the fluids and at a discount rate

i personally dont like the new style silicone blades but much prefer old style metal blades which tend to apply more pressure to the blade contact to the screen

Hi .... welcome to the Club Wow! that looks amazing, can't remember the last time I saw one on the road Good to have you onboard! Feel free to answer any CR-X related issues as I'm sure you'll have the answers

Hi Dave....welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!

My money is on the rear diff oil needing replacement which will cure the issue....takes a short while for it to settle down then the issue goes away completely

If you were to disconnect a fuel hose, say going into the fuel filter or fuel rail (before it gets into the engine/injectors, etc) then switch the ignition on then the fuel should flow into a container via the fuel pump. If not then there are companies that can evacuate the fuel safely and will do it on your driveway. Ensure that the vehicle has ample airflow to avoid any build up of flammable vapours and nothing that can create a spark