Trevor

Hi Rick....welcome to the Club Did you get any result on the head gasket?

Great news Andy! Proves what a great car the CR-V really is 🙂

Here is the specs for transmission fluids https://applications.castrol.com/oilselector/en_gb/c/recommendation?vehicleType=cars&manufacturer=honda-(eu)&model=cr-v-iv-re6-rm-(2011-2018)&modelType=cr-v-1-6i-dtec-4wd-(118-kw)-(2015-2018)

Hi.....welcome to the Club The Legend is a superb car but proving hard to find parts for nowadays. Yours looks in great condition and should give trouble free motoring for years as long as it is routinely maintained. Good to have you onboard!

Hi Pete.....welcome to the Club It would not be a viable option unfortunately as would be cost prohibitive and also a lot of bespoke work to adapt the engine to run with a turbo. A better option would be to have a 'remap' which works with the Engine control unit to release more power. Very simple and cheap option but with a noticeable outcome

Not really just a measurement in movement on the flywheel components but you can only do this with the transmission removed

PGM-Fi is the engine management system

Hi....welcome to the Club If you have replaced the batteries and also tried the recoding then it may be an issue with the central locking system but if the locksmith is coming out then if he cannot programme a new key it may well be the control unit. Let us know how you get on with it

Hi.....welcome to the Club I would definitely take it into the dealer to carry out the software update as this may be the reason for the warning lamps which effectively could shut down certain systems until rectified

I think you need to activate the Road Sign recognition app within the vehicle. Should be able to access it through the infotainment display panel on the dash

??? could do with some more information...such as when it occurs, recent maintenance history or work carried out

Sorry, should state the procedure is for resetting the AC system. The engine management will require a code reader capable of resetting the light Plenty of cheap ones out there that run off bluetooth through your mobile phone Here's one from eBay ELM327

Hi....welcome to the Club Have you considered an aftermarket bespoke ECU such as Emerald? https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=engine+management+ECU&_sacat=0

Have you considered if it is a worn Dual Mass Flywheel (DMF) as this can result in a shudder on start up and extreme clunking for a short period on shutting the engine down?

Hi Lisa.....welcome to the Club The battery should be in perfect charge condition at all times for the vehicle to function correctly. If the car hasn't been used much (especially if only used for short journeys) during lockdown periods then the battery will deteriorate and lead to sulphation. It could probably be reconditioned using a special battery conditioner (much like a battery charger) which will desulphate the battery and return it to almost original condition

You could try something like this for coil springs https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=coil+spring+assisters&_sacat=0

You will also need the immobiliser ECU as well (small white or grey box from memory) I carried out the same job quite a few years ago and got a secondhand ignition switch, chip reader and ECU with replacement key for the ignition. Worked as soon as I plugged it all in as it recognised the components working in sync which is how it would have on the vehicle the parts came from

Hi....welcome to the Club It should be a similar switch to the cruise control, probably same vicinity in the vehicle?

Hi...welcome to the Club Most aftermarket air cleaner and intake systems will fit with the correct hoses. Do make sure you get a cold air intake system so as not to draw hot underbonnet air which will actually decrease the power from the engine

I believe it was this same method (or something very similar that I used on my CR-V 2.2 (2007) model after replacing the relay and resetting the engine management light. Worked a treat!

Yes it does, and also the Air Con control unit needs resetting You can do a hard-reset by disconnecting the battery for a period of time but if you follow this procedure it should read the codes then remove them once reviewed to reset the system General Troubleshooting Information21-4 How to Retrieve a DTC The Heater Control Panel has a self-diagnosis function. Running the Self-diagnosis Function Turn the ignition switch OFF. Turn the fan switch OFF, the temperature control dial on Max Cool and the mode control dial on Vent. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), then press and hold the recirculation control switch. Within 10 seconds while holding the switch down, press the rear window defogger switch five times. The recirculation indicator blinks two times, then the self-diagnosis will begin. If there is any problem in the system after self-diagnosis is finished, the recirculation indicator will blink the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 7 through 13 when problems in the evaporator temperature sensor circuit are detected (codes 14 and 15), the A/C indicator will blink the DTC. If no DTC's are found, the indicator will not blink.

Mileage is hard to specify as it depends on driving style

Hi Anthony....welcome to the Club Good luck with the conversion, keep us updated on how it goes as it is quite a good base car to work with. Good to have you onboard!

Hi....welcome to the Club https://www.gov.uk/check-vehicle-e10-petrol Click through to the Government website and search your vehicle to see if it is compatible to run on E10

The emissions they need to check are via the pre-mot test emissions check....specifically looking for Oxygen levels which should be as near to zero as possible (anything higher is suggesting drawing oxygen post-catalytic converter which will cause the problem.