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You might be able to find it on one of the parts diagrams, e.g. on this site: https://www.parts-honda.uk/ Alternatively, there's Honda MaRIS, but it's not cheap.

Thanks. In this case, replacing the sensor (2nd time, with the genuine one as I mentioned in my first post) seems to have done the trick but it's good to know about the potential issue with HT Leads.

Do you mean which warning light? It was the yellow 'engine malfunction light' which looks like the outline of an engine The fault code was as per the thread title, except I got two digits swapped round, it should have been: P0325 Knock Sensor 1 No Signal

Hello Just wanted to share my experience. 2006 Honda FR-V, 2.0L petrol. Started to get this code coming up. At first I ignored it for a while hoping it was a one-off (there was also another possibly unrelated fault as well that was also causing the yellow light to come on). I decided to investigate it so I had the mechanic reset it and within 15mins it had already come back on again, before I had even gone home. Seeing that the part from Honda costs around £150 I ordered this one from eBay and asked my mechanic to fit it. Two days later the light came back on again. I am not sure that the above is as genuine as it seemed, so I decided to bite the bullet and buy one directly from Honda and hope for the best. Sent the one back from eBay and received a prompt refund, and so far all good with the new one. Only loss really is that I've had to pay the mechanic to do the job twice.

Hello I'm thinking about getting a code reader / scanner. Can anyone offer any advice about what to get or what to look for, or perhaps recommend a particular model? I don't want to spend a fortune but would be interested to know what options there are and what you get for paying a bit more?

Motor Parts Direct is a nationwide chain that sell EuroFlo catalytic converters. They're also sold on onlineautomotive.co.uk. Last I looked, Online Automotive seemed to be selling some of the parts at a discount and others above the standard price.

https://www.hondaparts247.co.uk/ I believe that site is run by Holdcroft Honda of Cobridge. Otherwise, I just go to my local dealer. Some parts are discounted.

Thanks again Trevor. I think the Lambda reading shown on that report was 1.009 rather than 1.09. (Next to that line, the report says says 'OK'). Do you know where I could get a four or five gas test done? MOT stations don't seem to understand what I'm asking for, all they can do is the standard MOT test (which seems to pass on the second fast idle test - I've had this done three times) Update: Meanwhile I've found someone who does exhaust gas testing - http://www.mobile-car-servicing.co.uk/MOT-emissions.html - it but the prices quoted on the website is £120, which is more than the price of a new oxygen sensor... 😒

Thanks for responding again @Trevor I think I misunderstood what you meant by pre-mot test. I thought you were referring to some other type of test that they used to do before they do MOTs. I was asking MOT centres for a test to check the oxygen levels and they had no idea what I was talking about. I've had a few MOT emissions checks done since then. This is the most detailed report I've had, does that help? Scanned_20221023-0101-1.pdf

Hello Looking for ideas here. I had a catalytic converter and lamda sensors stolen. I bought replacements online (onlineautomotive.co.uk) and a few months later it started tripping the engine management light - P0420: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1). I'm now wondering about trying to get the catalytic converter replaced under warranty and wondering what is the best way to go about it? They understandably want to pick it up, but I need to use the car in the mean time if there is a delay until they send out a replacement or refund. Also wondering if there's a possibility they'll take it and then try to reject the warranty claim and then I'll be left out of pocket... Any ideas as to how would be the best way to do this - or at least to get as much proof as possible that it is indeed the catalytic converter as opposed to the sensor or something else? Thanks

I'm still trying to get to the bottom of this. I've asked a few MOT stations who performed a regular emissions check. Typically it would fail the first test but then pass on the fast idle test. However they didn't seem to know anything about doing an oxygen check. Can anyone recommend anywhere, reachable from North London, that could do this for a reasonable price please?

Might be worthwhile trying eBay. webuyanycar also buy cars with no MOT. Motorway.co.uk might also buy it - not sure if they have conditions. You might even get more than that for part exchange although obviously that depends on buying another car from somewhere that can offer it.

Sounds like a short circuit somewhere perhaps caused by a faulty circuit board/control unit. Sorry I have no practical advice as to how you might go about hunting down the root cause. Maybe you can temporarily bypass the circuits for one door at a time to see if it's possible to isolate the problem to a single door. Though again no idea how you might do this and i''m not sure it would help if the fault is located somewhere more central. One thing I can tell you about the alarm system is under normal circumstances it will only engage if all the doors are locked - and the car has been locked with the key rather than the locking handle inside the car. So if the alarm is going off that must mean that the electronic unit that controls the alarm is getting the signal that all doors are closed and locked. If the indicator lights flash three times it means that all doors are locked (or so the control unit thinks) and the alarm is engaged.

There was a post on this on the old Honda Karma/H-Tune forums before they disappeared, can't remember everything that was mentioned but offhand: look for rust around the wheel arches brakes have a habit of binding when the callipers get stuck Otherwise in general they're reliable cars - automatic and manual. Not applicable to the model you've mentioned but: pre-2007 petrol models (1.7L and 2.0L engine) are a target for catalytic converter thieves, so it's likely that the catalytic converter will not be the original one. From 2007 onwards the catalytic converter is in the engine bay so much more difficult to steal. possibly something about the flywheel on diesels but I can't remember what

Just found this topic again, thought I'd update. In the end the light came back on again three months later, so I had the sensor replaced. It's underneath the radiator. When the sensor came out, the socket was visibly corroded.

See my post on another thread - MaRIS might help but there is a cost to it.

Miles, how frustrating! Assuming you've replaced the catalytic converter with a modern, cheaper replacement (you almost certainly have since the original one is no longer available), it's unlikely to attract thieves. The modern catalytic converters don't use the same precious metals which means its not worth thieves while to steal it - they'd probably be better off with a tyre! Thieves know this and the new ones look different enough that they can identify them quickly too. I haven't put any additional protection on mine and its not been touched for more than a year now. (And there have been another spate of catalytic converter thefts in this area, though this time they're targeting different cars as most Hondas have already been done!).

It's not likely that the replacement catalytic converter will get stolen again. The replacement ones are not worth anything near as much, and they look distinctively different so the thieves wouldn't bother. From the photo, looks like the lambda sensors were taken as well. Please post back here to report how it goes. With ours the replacement catalytic converter started to trip the yellow engine management light after about 3 months. Still not sure what to do about it.

There's a cost to it but you could try looking on Honda MaRIS

Have you tried local or national scrap yards e.g. https://www.breakeryard.com/? Also worth looking on eBay and Gumtree sometimes people list cars and then you read the description it turns out they're not actually selling the car whole but instead they're breaking it and selling the individual parts from it.

I'm not thinking of buying in near-new condition, but would like to see it brought back so that when the car I have needs replacing there'll be a car like this available that's new enough / low enough mileage.

I've seen people posting online (even on this forum I think) about problems with FR-V central locking. But usually the symptom is that one door will not lock or unlock, rather than all doors unlocking and then immediately locking again. The actuators are obviously one per door so usually only one door is affected at a time - although once one goes the others can start to go too, it's unlikely they would all start playing up on exactly the same day. Good luck with it - hope you manage to sort it out.

I have no idea I'm afraid but have you tried unlocking the doors with the key rather than pressing the remote control buttons? There is a feature (at least on mine) that seems to be intended to guard against accidentally unlocking the car. If you unlock the doors and then don't open any door within a set time (I think it's a few minutes) it locks itself again. Perhaps that timer has gone wrong? (Unfortunately I have no idea where it is or how it works/how to troubleshoot/replace it)

When we had our catalytic converter stolen (2.0L petrol), we found that the OEM parts were no longer available (unsurprisingly), but EuroFlo are making pattern replacement parts. You can check if EuroFlo are making parts for your model on their website. If they are you can get them at several places, try Online Auto Motive (though beware they sometimes sell the main parts cheaper and the fixings and fittings (bolts, etc) more expensive to make up the difference) or Motor Parts Direct who have an extensive network of parts shops across the UK. You may find that Motor Parts Direct can order the part you need even if it doesn't show on their website. Hope this helps

Not the cheapest/easiest way but if all else fails you can subscribe to Honda MaRIS for an hour for €10, which should have the diagrams and instructions you need. If it's a fuse that you are after (rather than a relay), at least for the fuse box in the engine compartment there is a diagram of which fuse does what on the underside of the plastic fusebox cover. It may be worthwhile looking around to see if there is a similar diagram on something you have to remove to access the other fuse box (if that's indeed where the relevant fuse is).