Trevor

Hi Ani ..... welcome to the Club It would be a shame to write off the car for panel damage that a skilled panel beater may be able to repair Worth finding an old-school panel beater who may be able to pull/beat it out rather than replacing any panels Let us know how you get on with it

Hi silver dream racer .... welcome to the Club I take it that your Civic is silver in colour then?

That's an odd one. As is the case with some manufacturers such as Volkswagen, the lights on one side will stay on when the indicator is switched to either side. In this case I don't think that is the issue, more likely it has sustained accident damage or something where there is a wire trapped or short-circuit to somewhere providing power (e.g. the wire trapped along with it. I would remove the headlamp and look to see what is occurring with the wiring behind it as a good starting point I'm not sure what those wires are for but I would have a look to see if there are any corresponding places for them to clip into and go from there

Yes, thats the problem nowadays as most garages don't understand the concept of exhaust emissions. It either passes the MOT set emissions or it doesn't I have seen many garages dispose of perfectly good oxygen sensors because they failed (or couldn't be bothered to see the relevance) to notice an exhaust leak which draws air to the sensor which then overfuels and 'hey presto' there is your problem. I have sometimes measure the oxygen level after fitting a new exhaust to see that there is no leaks present and the repair has been done properly, takes all of 2 to 3 minutes as the emissions machine is running all day on standby. Sorry, rant over but motor vehicle fundamentals seem to have been completely forgotten over the past 10 to 20 years and replacement of perfectly good (and expensive) components seem to be the name of the game. most MOT emissions analysers have a 'Pre-MOT Test' function in the background where you can run it to check 5 gas and Lambda readings prior to testing for the MOT but not many people would use it or know its there or even understand the readings and how they determine the actual faults

Thank you BAZZER RN 1 for your post and one which hits the nail on the head quite frankly. Unfortunately, this Honda forums does tend to have many 'lurkers' and not many 'responders'. I always try to answer where and when I can but there is very little in the way of interaction like that of some other forums. So, if any other members out there feel they would like to interact then please jump in with your experiences, knowledge or anything that brings something to the table. This is a forum for the members so feel free to join in

Not sure without seeing absolute read outs on the emissions Needless to say, if the HCs were high then this is unburnt fuel particles which cause the cat to run hot and even burn out completely. If this is the case with the old cat then it would not be fit for reuse but the same could happen to the replacement one. This is why it is important to get a proper emissions check (CO, CO2, HC, O2, Lambda) and this will tell you exactly what the failure is

Sounds crazy but do you think the vibration is coming from the engine rather than the transmission or drivetrain? Crankshaft pulleys are known to break up (can tell as there will be vibration and movement on the outer part of the pulley with the engine running) and if so then this may be transmitting at a more severe rate through the vehicle. A way of telling is to remove the drivebelt and see if there is a difference but would not recommend at high speed as no power steering and other ancillary items would be operating (e.g. alternator, etc)

I would imagine there should be two adjusters one for height the other for lateral beam positioning both on the headlamps (engine bay side) but may also be accessible from the front of the headlamps with an allen key or screwdriver Also, check the interior for rotary switch to adjust the height for load carrying

The rear differential oil requires changing periodically on the CR-V Using special fluid it is a simple enough job and cures the clunking when turning onto a driveway for example Also, the CR-V does suffer from a clunky first to second gear change and you'll notice that a slower change helps to alleviate this

I would agree that it is probably a battery fault and worth a visit to Halfords to have it checked and replaced if necessary However as b4u2 has mentioned if you have only just bought the car through a trader then you should go back to them for reimbursement of the cost to replace the battery. Not so sure you could pursue costs through a private sale though

Is the air conditioning switched on when this occurs?

Ebay would be my first choice to source one https://www.ebay.co.uk/b/Vehicle-Parts-Accessories/131090/bn_1838652?mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&siteid=3&campid=5338938280&customid=HondaKW&toolid=20012&mkevt=1

Have you managed to get this issue sorted? Bit strange that both have failed at the same time, anything that coincided with the failure (e.g. any work been carried out recently, flat battery?)

It could be the wiring that goes through the rubber from the Bulkhead (A-Post area) to the Door which articulates when it bends back and forth which leads to broken wires. Pull it back and reveal the wiring to see if there are any breaks

Not sure a software / firmware update will sort this issue but certainly worth confirming the dealer can do this Possibly a Bluetooth adapter to connect with your phone to the car audio system is a cheaper move?

DieselHonda. Thanks for the feedback always nice to know the outcome

First thought is that it may be a poor earth connection which could be causing the slow starting issue (even if the battery has 12.3 volts) as the power will not be reaching the components that require the earth return (e.g. starter motor) As for the alarm, could be worth checking all earth connections and leads to ensure tight and free from corrosion. After that I would check all the sensors (bonnet, boot, doors, etc) to see if the interior light goes off when opened and closed Finally check for any water ingress into the electrics, underbonnet relay and fusebox and also underneath the dashboard

Would be worth operating it up and down and liberally spraying all joints and moving parts with WD40 to see if it eases up Also check the connections to the sensors to see that are secure and free from contamination

Worth checking your rear lights aren't leaking water into the boot. Quite common place for water to come in and track along the boot area to the lowest point. If you remove the lamp units and see if the water has been getting through the seal and reseal with clear silicon if necessary

Maybe needs to be switched up on your phone or also check that the 'Aux' button is switched to your phone as the voice may then come through the stereo

Let us know how you get on especially if it is a simple process to switch them off

Ah that's a different kettle of fish then, not sure of how you can refurb it if its the chrome reflector inside If its the inside of the plastic lenses then you may be able to detach them carefully and clean and refit with new silicon

Thanks for letting us know the outcome and referral. Always good to hear of a success story and recommended company I found when I upped the power on my 2.2 it started to slip the clutch (not that is was worn out) as it uses a self-adjusting mechanism which utilises ramps to adjust the wear on the clutch pressure plate. Too much 'oomph' in one go made the mechanism slip up the wedge ramps and would return once the power was off, bit like a slipping clutch

Look in the handbook for instructions or if not take to dealers who should be able to re-programme it out

Try https://catloc.co.uk/ for a cat guard For the dashboard you can get the same sort of cover similar to this but in larger size and stays in place, also handy for putting phones on, etc https://www.halfords.com/motoring/car-accessories/interior-car-accessories/halfords-non-slip-dash-mat-263472.html