Trevor

Worth pulling the audio fuse to see if the drain is still there

I don't see a problem with securing a small bracket for the sensor rod it is not carrying any excessive loads so should be okay as long as you don't compromise the security or construction of the lower suspension arm (e.g. drilling holes, etc)

If it is a part that can be removed then you may be able to find someone to 3D print a new one

I believe the siren is in the boot area - anyone know exactly where?? I would try to disconnect, leave off for a while and reconnect (negative lead first off and last on) then upon reconnecting lock the drivers door on the key Try the fob unlock and lock buttons a few times until they are recognised Then switch the ignition on and hopefully that should do it If the fobs don't work then go straight to the ignition with the key and see if you can programme the fobs later

I have previously sprayed any part of the linkage (inside and under the bonnet especially) and still found it to be a little stiff. Slower gear changes are in order with the CR-V and I think its the sort of vehicle that requires that style of driving. Other cars I own are superb at quick changes but then they are made for that or at least encourages you to drive them like that 🙂

not sure if you have now managed to resolve this but I wired one into my 2007 CR-V and it was a nightmare to find a permanent live in the fusebox but got one in the end, sorry can't remember which one it was though If you do find out which one you tapped into the please let us know as this question comes up quite a lot in this forum

would love to be able to train my cat but i actually think its a role reversal 🙂 sorry, got to rush, she wants her lunch now

I've sent you a message

Welcome to the Club Alan....good to have you onboard!

Go to your account settings (top right corner of screen) and you should be able to edit them from there. If you can't do it then Message me through to my account and I can guide you through it further

The guides do say 6 years or 75000 miles whichever is sooner I would not let the belt get that close to the wire as it is then borrowed time and nothing to gain except for delaying the inevitable

You could see what IceBox Autos have on offer for your car https://www.iceboxauto.com/iba-honda-entertainment-systems#/specFilters=2!#-!468!-#!1!#-!19 By far way better than the original Honda equipment fitted as standard and more updatable at no (or little) cost The TDI tuning boxes work very well and used one on my CR-V to great effect, can also highly recommend them

Thanks for letting us know, shame no one could have saved it from the scrappy though 😞

There's quite a selection on eBay - Mannol oil is as good as original Honda oil specs https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2499334.m570.l1313&_nkw=ATF-DW1&_sacat=131090

Good work! Don't think i could manage to maneouver my way under a dashboard anymore you must be more supple than me then 🙂 Let's hope it stays working for quite a while longer

That's a very handy tip there BAZZER RN 1 I have used silicon to good effect on suspension rubbers (mainly strut top mounts if you can get enough in there as hard to access) when they get 'dry' and start creaking. Anyone who has had an Alfa Romeo will know what I mean 🙂

They are an incredibly rare car now and this question of parts is coming up more often now as it seems Honda parts for most models are fast becoming hard to acquire You could look to Europe for parts as more plentiful over there Try AutoDoc as I have used them many times in the past for obscure car parts and they have come up trumps

Fine looking Honda and seems to be in immaculate condition for its age

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Hi Mark....welcome to the Club Honda suspension parts are proving very difficult to acquire lately for any model of Honda it seems Try Autodoc who are based in Europe and have found them useful for a whole range of parts that are now hard to get over here Wow! 20 cars is a lot....the most I've ever had at one time was 11 🙂 I profess to be an avid Rover fan myself and have had almost every model they built in the 80's and 90's - The 200 BRM was my all-time favourite and should never have sold it Good to have you on board and if you can help out with answering any member's questions on the older Honda models then please feel free to get stuck in

They will try to sell you a Dual Mass Flywheel sometimes even if its not needed Unless it is worn (e.g clunking when the engine switches off) or you think its worth is while the gearbox is off?

Try a secondhand key and transfer the blade and the electronics over

WikiOBD is a site which will show you the location If not got OBD then the older system was flash codes on the ECU mounted under the passenger footwell carpet

Not heard of that one Can't see how debris from the cambelt could enter into the oil system though?

See link: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2499334.m570.l1313&_nkw=38810-RZ0-E01&_sacat=131090