Trevor

Looks like it will need to go to a reputable garage for further diagnosis. My thoughts are fuel pressure sensor or fuel filter blocked

Hi....welcome to the Forum The reversal of battery terminals can be enough to destroy electronic components that are current polarity sensitive....unless they have diode protection. If the vehicle is not responding to the new battery (assuming it is fully charged 12volts) then chances are the Electronic Control Units (ECU) are fried and also the Alternator is more than likely damaged as well. It looks like you'll need to take it to a reputable garage or auto electrician to diagnose the fault and damaged components Let us know how you get on with it

Hi....welcome to the Forum These codes are predominantly for the air intake, fuel and exhaust areas of the Engine Management system. My first thought is if it has ceased running and won't start then it is going to be a fuel related issue. Has it been misfuelled (petrol instead of diesel)? Has any maintenance or repairs been carried out on the car before this occurred?

Hi Leigh....welcome to the Forum I found Honda's later in life and actually thought 'why didn't I get one sooner'. After some pondering, I came to the conclusion that perhaps I wasn't yet ready for one, e.g. this is why the more mature motorist go for Honda I believe. In reality, they are superb cars and uber-reliable and cannot believe it took so long to take the plunge after driving some horrific cars over the years. Good to have you onboard and please let us know how living with a Honda is working out for you Cheers, Trevor

Hi...welcome to the Forum Clutch judder could be down to a couple of things.... Defective clutch pressure plate (broken springs) or defective driven plate (breaking up) Also, other areas like engine/gearbox mounts being worn or damaged and also worn driveshaft joints. Worth checking these items prior to committing to a new clutch Let us know how you get on with it

Definitely sounds like a trip to the dealership with your wallet as I cannot think of any other explanation at this stage

Just a thought but have you got the key in a Faraday pouch and the signal is being blocked ?

Hi Zane.....welcome to the Forum That is probably about right for the petrol engine, apart from ensuring that the engine is mechanically sound to deliver maximum MPG then there probably isn't much more that you could do to improve upon it. Good to have you onboard, Cheers . Trevor

I would run the registration number through Eurocarparts website and see what options they give you. If you look at the Fitment tab that will show what the differences are. Worst-case scenario, get both sets and return the one that is wrong Good luck

That's brilliant...would definitely be interested in how this works out because, like you, I hate the idea of controls not working. Keep us updated

Hi....welcome to the Forum I have answered your post in the other part of the forums but here is a copy as well Good to have you onboard Cheers, Trevor

I would take advice from a specialist towbar installer as the car will be running a CanBus electrical system which means you can't just wire in a socket like the old days, rather the electrics would have to run through a special control unit to interface with the lighting system and not create any errors.

Yes, thats right but you will still need the old key positioned somewhere in the vicinity of the key reading aerial by the barrel to pick up the original immobiliser chip

Hi Lewis...welcome to the Forum Superb little car .... always wanted one years ago but never got round to ticking it off the list Good to have you onboard Cheers, Trevor

Let us know how it works out for you

I tucked my cabling down the A pillar trim as it only has to just tuck in behind enough not to be seen and therefore you don't need to remove the trim

Hi....welcome to the Forum The CR-V has superb build quality...in all the years I have owned mine I can honestly say I have never had any issues with squeaks and rattles Good to have you onboard Cheers, Trevor

probably the case but easy to simulate by disconnecting and applying a load to the boot to see if the headlamps shift down

I think I would stick to the genuine Honda oil if poss.....bought some for my CRV diff on eBay and loads cheaper than dealership

Hi....welcome to the Forum I would definitely go back to the dealership and get them to change it under warranty as this shouldn't happen on a car this new. It's a common fault on some Nissans but wasn't aware of it on Honda's though

Crikey, that's a lot of money for a sensor but I suppose if it works then so be it

I would therefore change it more frequently just in case it has had been missed over time

Hi....welcome to the Forum There are two reasons for height sensors: 1. to give a reading to feedback to hydraulic/pneumatic dynamic suspension where the dampers or air bags will adjust according to ride heights. 2. to give a reading to feedback to the Xenon headlights to ensure other road users don't suffer glare from the headlamp. If you disconnect it and see if one of your headlamps doesn't adjust on one side. Let us know what you find. Cheers, Trevor

I would imagine a sensor from an Accord should work, just find the one that has the longest lead length and see if it compares to yours. I bought one from ebay for a 2005 Accord and is was around £15

Surely being only two years old the car should have some sort of warranty? I would persist in hassling the dealer if it is affecting drivability and / or safety