Trevor

That's a very odd one....sounds like a relay is latching in and powering the lights while switched off. However, it could also be a wiring issue rather than a relay. The first thing I would do is a 'wiggle test' to determine where (in the wiring) there may be an issue (such as a connector block). Also, check other simple things like incorrect bulbs fitted which could be backfeeding the electrical system.

The only other thing it could be is the Rear Diff oil needs changing. This can occur if not changed within the specified time period and leads to the diff locking up. If this occurs then you need to flush the diff and replace the fluid with the specified oil https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-HONDA-CRV-2007-2017-REAR-DIFF-FLUID-FLUSH-KIT-SUPPLY-REG-FOR-WASHERS/303409859926?fits=Car+Make%3AHonda|Model%3ACR-V&hash=item46a4a30d56:g:oCoAAOSwJHhcpIUk

I would think that would be the best bet...a reputable independent garage can tackle those jobs a lot cheaper than a dealer could.

Hi John...welcome to the Forum I have seen people covering the dashboard with some non-reflective material to cut out the glare. You can also get some matt polish to apply to the surface to dull it down.

Thought that might be the case, although I would be concerned if they find too much wrong but if its only just a couple of things and they generally work on a fixed-price system for brake pads. The exhaust could possibly be welded but I imagine they might replace the whole section. Keep us informed on how it all goes

I wonder if they are looking at other service recall issues at the same time or possibly looking for additional work (e.g. worn discs and pads)? Let us know what they come back with when you collect it later

Perfect solution:-) Which college are you at? Highbury, Fareham?

Is there anyway you could scan the system to see what codes are there....cheap scan tool or local specialist? Maybe a coding issue, could be a code that needs erasing from the memory, air in the system?

Hi Dan....welcome to the Forums Good to have you onboard

Hi Dan...welcome to the Forum I would have a look at it first and determine your skill level and also the tools required before diving into the task. With me, its more limited space to get my hands in several different directions within the confined area between the engine and chassis 😞 Otherwise, it should be a straightforward enough task you should be able to attempt. Let us know how you get on with it

Glad to hear you have a positive result with not too much cost involved. Interesting to know it was a faulty relay at fault. Good luck with the DPF...there are companies that can pressure clean them off the car and this will be a lot cheaper than a replacement item. Let us know how it all goes.

Hi Luke....welcome to the Forum I would imagine that a car of this age with this mileage has probably not gone out of town much. I have had similar cars in the past that also have suffered from low MPG and performance and with longer runs out of town and gradually increasing the engine load and revs have managed to clear the engine out with much better results on performance and economy. It helps to add a tin of Redex or similar to assist the clean-up but otherwise, it is a case of bedding the engine in after poodling around town for so long Let us know how it all goes

Hi Yeoman.... welcome to the Forum Definitely a classic shape Civic.....look forward to seeing the build Good to have you onboard!

I personally found the autobox quite pleasant to drive but that was on a petrol engine CRV and the engine lacked response so probably better with the diesel engine

Hi....welcome to the Forum I assume the vehicle battery is in good condition? Also, check all battery cables and connections, including earth leads....especially those running to the gearbox as this has been out recently it may not have been put back properly or loose on the connection. Let us know how it all goes

Cambelt/Chain failure? Blocked Oilways? Could be any number of reasons really Does it spin over very quickly or completely locked up?

Hi Sue....welcome to the Forum The first thing that comes to mind is the Battery earth terminal and leads.....make sure the terminal is secure on the battery and has no corrosion build up on the terminal. Also check the leads and ensure both ends are secure and free of any corrosion. After that I would check the battery condition and if good then you would have to proceed with individually diagnosis each electrical fault, but its always worth checking the obvious first and at no cost. Let us know how you get on with it all

Could possibly be the Fuel Shut-Off Inertia switch (not sure where it is located though) as this would trigger if there is an accident and cut off the fuel

If there is a spark on the plugs then it may well be fuel pump related. If there is no spark then I would be looking at the Crankshaft sensor as this generates the signal for both fuel and spark Let us know what you find

Sounds like it could be an issue with a slight leak in the exhaust or EGR valve...worth getting checked before it gets any worse Let us know what you find

Is this any good? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1X-New-Old-Stock-Genuine-Honda-Accessory-Alarm-Remote-Keyfob-HA2/352813991858?fits=Car+Make%3AHonda|Model%3ACivic|Cars+Year%3A1998&hash=item52255a47b2:g:BZMAAOSwfkpdl1S2 I see there are kits available on eBay but look like they are from the States which is still possible to get and cheap enough

Hi...welcome to the Forum Typically around town you should not expect much more than around low 30's to the gallon On an extra urban run it should achieve around high 30's to low 40's and on a decent motorway run it should get around mid to high 40 mpg.

Useful Resource for 2007 CR-V owners https://owners.honda.com/vehicles/information/2007/CR-V/manuals

Have you got any photos of the car please

Hi Dave...welcome to the Forum The only time I have found anything like this occurring is when the pickup strainer has been clogged up and as the first part to receive any oil feed would be number one cylinder fed from the oil pump which is right next to the first entry/exit point of the crank drilling. If you bought a set of shells then you should have enough left in the packet (or removed and replaced from another cylinder but still usable) to re-shell number one big end and check out the pickup strainer and all seals/o-rings to ensure that oil is definitely being drawn up from the sump. Let us know how you get on with this engine Cheers, Trevor