Trevor

Try taking it to a garage who has a smoke generator which will identify where the leak is coming from

Hi Suzie.....welcome to the forum I would initially look at the rear light lenses as a source of the water entering the boot area. If you remove the lenses and apply some silicone sealant to the gaskets before refitting then that may cure it or at least eliminate the lenses as being the culprit.

Hi....welcome to the Forum Tried looking up the Stream on Eurocarparts but although it was listed, it didn't show any more detail than this below: Still can't find what you're looking for?Call our expert team on+44 (0) 203 788 7842 Alternatively you can email your enquiry to partrequest@eurocarparts.com

Hi....welcome to the Forum It could be a sticking brake pad or caliper. If you strip it down and check it out you will more than likely find the issue, and hopefully a cheap fix

Maybe worth trying to source one direct from Japan. Always plenty of suppliers for import vehicles and spares

Hi Alan....welcome to the Club It sounds like it is a diverter flap in the dashboard that isn't switching across. Alternatively, ensure that the climate control which separates the driver and passenger temperatures is functioning correctly (consult the manual) Usually, the CR-V is bulletproof but there is a couple of issues with the heating system. Also, if you have had the Airbags replaced then I wonder if any connections came loose on the passenger side? Let us know what you find Cheers, Trevor

Hi Dan Welcome to the Club.....good to have you onboard Cheers, Trevor

Hi Dan It does sound like either an engine or gearbox mounting (which wouldn't show up in an MOT) or it could even be the dual mass flywheel, especially with towing heavy loads. Let us know what you find it to be.

oh, that's an absolute nightmare but I suppose a necessary task to replace the light unit. If you do replace the unit, a few photos and a brief description would be very handy to post up for others to follow if needs be. Thanks, and good luck

I think it just sits in clips from memory....would only use a plastic lever or fingers to prise it down

if it is black plastic then vegetable/sunflower cooking oil rubbed into the plastic is superb....and cheap

I would definitely take the car to the dealer to get a second opinion as 'mayo' under the cap can be caused by condensation from short trips. There are other tests to determine the head gasket is actually failing.

you could always wire in a temporary switch or variable resistor to power the fan to test it or even run it as an over ride

It appears to be a crankcase breather hose which usually fail due to hardening up from oil vapour. Any hose of the same diameter should work. Sorry, cant see what it attaches to so cannot identify it. No, Knock Sensor would not be related

I would look for a vacuum leak first as this can cause the issue you are experiencing

I think you'll find you need to remove the motor assembly to gain access to all the bolts securing the rack to the bulkhead...fiddly job as seen it done on a 4 post lift and looked as though they were struggling with it from underneath

Hi....welcome to the Forum You may be better off with an aftermarket double din stereo with a built in satnav or even a standalone unit, Be far cheaper, and better in the long run. Cheers, Trevor

Hi Neil ... welcome to the Forum I know you'll definitely enjoy the CRV as it is a great vehicle and incredibly economical for the size of car. Let us know how you get on with it Cheers, Trevor

Hi...welcome to the Forum It is a common feature of the CR-V to wind up the transmission on full lock when driving on or off a driveway. However, it is accentuated by not changing the rear diff fluid periodically. If it hasn't been done for a while then you will need to flush it first and then replace the fluid. Diff Fluid https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-HONDA-CRV-DPS-FLUID-DIFF-OIL-1-LITRE/322527333403?epid=1415923714&hash=item4b18208c1b:g:sLQAAOSwd7FcM4E4:rk:3:pf:0 If you are flushing the diff, I think there is a special fluid for that, if not available (ask your dealer) then use 2 to 3 bottle of diff oil to flush out (drive around for a while and then replace fluid) Also, with the slippery weather almost upon us then it is worth driving it around on the snow, ice to invoke the 4WD and to get the rear diff working. Also handy for ABS as well. Let us know how you get on with it Cheers, Trevor

well at least you know the sensors are working okay. I would be tempted to see if there is any way to alter the position of the sensor to match the desired height but it does seem strange that this has occurred, unless the ride height at the rear has changed e.g. broken road spring, etc

maybe worth disconnecting the link from the axle bracket and manually moving the lever on the sensors to see if it is free and adjusts the headlamps

Is the sound from the area of the engine, transmission or wheels? Also, is it engine speed or road speed related?

I don't suppose you could get someone to check the lights to see if they move while you move the adjuster under the rear and see if it makes any difference...at least that way you would know if the system is working okay from the sensors

Feel free to upload some pictures....spent many years welding all sorts of vehicles so more than happy to be of assistance

Hi Jay....welcome to the Club There should be an adjuster on the dash just above your right knee, if it is not HID If it is HID then it would more than likely be a link rod on the rear suspension that has come adrift